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OIL FILTER STUDY

adrianp89

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Good stuff - makes me feel better about my choice of Mobile 1 in my truck. I had an oil sample done, and the team stated they were thoroughly impressed with the results of the oil after 10k.
 

Johnny16

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Great information. Thanks you for the link.
 

SamCF

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This is a good study if you were looking for a filter for a 5.7l in the year 2011.

A lot of these probably are manufactured in different countries now with better or worse quality standards. A filter that you used for 10 years might be manufactured in Mexico with lower standards now.

So much debate on a $4 vs $30 part. It's for sure not worth saving the money on an inferior product.

I buy $4 filters and change every 3-4 lake trips. I've done 4 oil changes this summer. I would be less likely to change oil as often if my filters were $30.

Do your own research and make your own opinion. If you aren't confident in an alternate product, go with OEM.
 
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ISLANDRACING

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The post above has more useful info than not despite being from 2011.
If someone uses a wants to use a 4$ oil filter and "walmart quality oil" be my guest. Some feel good that they saved money.
Some want better than OEM quality oil and filters. Some will feel good that they in a way "modded their" boat for the better.
Some people want cheap, some want quality. Its personal choice.
When it comes to oils and filters, better stuff usually,,,not all the time but usually comes with a higher price tag.
I do have to add here on a comment previously made,,,,The point of running a bigger filter vs a smaller one will give "better filtration" is 1000% WRONG ... if the filtration media is GARBAGE, more of it will not filter the particles better. Period!. It may hold MORE volume of the larger particles, only because the filter never filtered out the smaller particles in the first place.
This is what this particular test shows. Its basically is one of the only tests that actually do, and not just some "tester" that goes out, buys new filters, cut them open, and measure pleat count and media dimensions etc etc.
This test shows which filters filtered out the smallest and most particles and which did not.
 

SamCF

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No one said anything about cheap oil. Are you saying that you KNOW that all Motorcraft filter media is GARBAGE? Or did you see a 6 year old study that included ONE Motorcraft filter, that is not the filter in question?

My point about the 910s vs the 400s is valid. Larger filter = more filter media. It will hold more volume and filter more contaminates before becoming clogged and going to bypass. It will NOT filter any better if the filter media is the same.

Maybe you can cross reference an Amsoil filter to the 400s and pitch it here.
 

Ronnie

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Interesting. Before I went back to using oem filters in my boat I used k&n and Mobil 1 products primarily because they were less expensive than oem but on the high side of the non oem range ($4 to $15). I’ve stopped using Fram because they are so inexpensive (I.e., I had the “ you get what you pay” for mentality).

I’ve since gone back to using Yamaha oil filters for the reason(s) below but when I cut two different oem filters open (one for the 1.8 liter / 1,812 cc and another for the 1 liter / 1,052 cc motor) I noticed a difference in the filter element used, the 1.8l filter used a foam/cloth like material (I’ve read several times that it is fleece) and the other used cardboard (after paying $25 to $30 for each I felt fleeced about this filter).

I didn’t see or know how to read the study but I was looking for a filter studied that used the same material as the 1.8 liter oem oil filter. The study has three types, cellulose, synthetic and blend, not sure which if any of these the materials in the oem 1.8 liter filter falls into.

I went back to using Yamaha oil filters and oil after my 2010 242 Ls oil coolers developed cracks, warped and started leaking. This is not scientific at all but I got the boat two years old with 100 hours on it. The original owner always had the shop maintain the boat and they used Yamaha oil and filters. When I got the boat I used Mobil 1 filters and synthetic oil initially. Fast forward a year and 100 hours later both coolers had developed problems with their covers causing them to leak oil into the bilge. When my Yamaha dealer replaced the coolers under a third party warranty they used Yamaha oil and filters and I have been doing the same since. That is, the oil coolers were fine on oem oil and filters, leaked when I went to non oem, so now I’m using oem again. Now that the coolers have been upgraded I could probably safely use non oem but I am not willing to chance it. I’m out of warranty so if both coolers had to be replaced again it would cost about $1,400 just for the parts v. Under $200 for parts and labor when my boat was covered by a third party warranty. By the way the warranty or at least mine don’t cover perishables like the oil or the filter (similar to auto insurance not covering light bulbs I think).

I’m easily $50k into this boat, which is not a lot of money to some people but it’s a lot too me, so I can’t justify using third party oil or filters by lower cost alone. Without knowing more I’m going to stick with what Yamaha recommends which of course are Yamaha branded products. Although I think it was a member in Thailand / Asia that found that mazda uses the same filters that Yamaha does and sells them for a lot less but I can’t recall now.

Here is a link 5o a string with pics in which several Yamaha oil filters were dissected.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/yamaha-oil-filter-what-is-inside.5050/
 
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Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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I thought this was an old subject sort of what beer is the best, I have used Motorcraft fl910s filters forever on my 1800 engines and I have always used these. I put hundreds of hours more per year than most people and I ride it like someone else owns it.
I change the filter and the oil every 50Hours , in the summer that can be every couple months.
Never had an oil filter issue and I hate to do the oil changes at 50 hours because my oil always looks clean.
Since I have been told many times oil never goes bad it just gets dirty, clean oil really does not need to be changed.
Fuel injected engines run a lot cleaner than carb engines and most people probably have more of a worry of the filter casing rusting at the crimp and leaking than they need to worry about the filter needing changing. So all this is pretty much old news . Now some people worry about the small stuff and some not so much, it really makes no difference to me what other people feel comfortable using in their oil filter choice etc but I just wanted to put in my first hand experience and I really do not care who makes the filter or what it costs if it gets the job done. Oh and as for what beer is best I don't drink so that isn't important to me either lol
 

ISLANDRACING

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I drink Klotz :) :) :)

What this thread basically comes down to is the "FILTRATION" of a filter . If Brand "A" filters particles down to 5um and brand "B" barely filters 30um particles ,,, you can have a 30um filter the size of a 55 gallon drum but that doesnt mean it will filter any better( ie SIZE DONT MEAN JACK! ) ,,, and all those 29and down size particles is flowing through your engine, right through your oil filter and back through your engine again wearing away your engine :).
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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ok I see where you are coming from. Now also take into consideration that test is on a new filter, but as the filter collects particles during real use it becomes more restrictive and captures more and more smaller particles so one has to decide where to start on the scale taking into account that the filter will capture smaller and smaller particles reducing the flow and how it effects the oil flow through the filter as it gets more items collected. Just something to factor into the equation. But I am sure the people who build filters do all that math etc. I change mine every 50 hours so I do not worry about it I never have had any issues with oil or filters etc And the filter has a bypass valve , once that is triggered NOTHING gets filtered! just saying.
 

swatski

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I’ve since gone back to using Yamaha oil filters for the reason(s) below but when I cut two different oem filters open (one for the 1.8 liter / 1,812 cc and another for the 1 liter / 1,052 cc motor) I noticed a difference in the filter element used, the 1.8l filter used a foam/cloth like material (I’ve read several times that it is fleece) and the other used cardboard (after paying $25 to $30 for each I felt fleeced about this filter).
The size/motor doesn't matter, the issue is those filters have changed, and not exactly new topic.

All (old) "Made in Japan" OEM filters used to have "fleece" like material inside but the "Made in Thailand" (same part #) are all cardboard.
Problem is - you can no longer buy the Made in Japan, especially the bigger ones for the 1.8 engines. So the cardboard OEM filters are the only one available. I don't think those can be any better than a FRAM.


@ISLANDRACING My apologies! - I never sent you the Amsoil filter I promised!!! My bad, will ship it tomorrow morning. I am not of Facebook, but this reminded me you were doing the comparison.

--
 

Ronnie

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If anyone knows of a place where I can have a Yamaha branded oil filter tested please share the information with me.

I don’t know about the size/efficacy of the filter’s mesh but I’d like to know. Moreover, I’d like to know if they are worth the extra money (2 to 6 Times) over non Oem filters. I would be willing to buy and have tested the Yamaha, k&n, Mobil 1 and Fram extended life oil filters that fit my boat. I chose these because of how they were ranked in the 2011 study and because they are usually available to me locally.
 
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