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Oil seal help needed

atldude

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
114
Reaction score
66
Points
127
Location
Atlanta, GA
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2006
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
23
Hi fellow Jet Boaters!

So I am having a bit of an issue with what I believe is an oil seal on my 2006 SX230 HO.

Yesterday I took the bout out to the lake for the first time. Was a blast! However on the way back around 7000rpm ~30-ish mph the port side started making noise which sounded like vibration.

I let off the throttle, shut it down, looked in the port clean out and there was nothing that I could feel. I started the boat back up, no issues when idling. So I continued heading back running slowly. When I got close to the marina, I decided to test things out a bit. I realized that when I only use the port engine, the noise comes back right around 5-6k rpm but ONLY IF I only use the port engine (starboard idling). When I use throttle on both engines the noise is not present. Comparing how the boat runs on each individually, the power delivery less on the port side but not as if I am not moving or anything... just not as quick and pronounced as running only the starboard side.

So initially I thought maybe I hit some debris and it chewed through them but now I am having issues with cavitation. Was king of hoping for it anyway :) my small fear was that this has something to do with the intermediary bearing of course though I thought I'd probably hear a lot more across the RPM range if that was the case.

So today, I got the boat out out on the service stacks and took the port pump out shaft looks good, impeller looks good (not great as there are a few small chips on the leading edge but nothing I thought would cause major cavitation issues). Nothing in the removable pump assembly including bolts, bearings etc. make noise or are loose.

With the pump/shaft out I started the port side and bumped the throttle for a quick second (boat was completely cold and fresh out of the water) up to 5k rpm and I heard or felt no vibration at all.

Decided to take a look down the barrel of the shaft tube and here's what I saw (not easy to take a good photo down there) -

seal1.jpg seal2.jpg
There appears to be a rubber seal/sleeve that's chewed up and completely free spinning across the tube (not just laterally). I can only assume is #8 or #5 on this parts diagram but I am not sure which one -

parts_diag.PNG

Looking for some advice as to how does one go about replacing these outer oil seal(s). I am not sure if the bearing is shot altogether. I can't tell just by looking down the tube but I'm speculating maybe the noise/vibration was caused by the tore up rubber seal being dislodged and freely moving around catching on the shaft and the tube walls when engine/shaft is at speed. Is it possible to replace the most outer seal #8, see how it goes and then go further to get to the intermediary bearing assembly?

Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers!
 
Last edited:
Thanks! I am planning to open the cones this spring but I neead to deal with this oil seal first looks like cause it’s definitely out. Been looking at the schematics and some posts around here and it would appear there’s no easy way to do this from the pump side... If I understand correctly, I’ll have to slide the engine back and get to it from there?
 
ok so I assume you have issues with the intermediate bearing housing .. if so yes you need to move the engine forward and pull the pump to replace that housing it is a unit so you just replace the entire housing with a new one
 
How do you go about doing this? Would I need to hoist it? I saw some folks mentioned things like making sure the shims go exactly as they were before but I could really use some pointers as to how you actually move the engine forward if you have seen or done it before.
 
The motor mount shims must be returned to where they came from exactly where they came from to insure the engine is aligned correctly like it was at the factory.
 
Thanks. So I get the part about the shims and all, I’m really trying to get some extra info on how to actually move the engine. Is it possible to slide back and get the to the intermediary bearing housing? How far back does it need to go? OR do I just need to plan to hoist and lift it?
 
you will need to get someone who has replaced them in the boats I did one in a ski and then I learned not to grease those things and I have never had any further need to replace them even with 600 hours on them,
 
@atldude I suggest you take a sharpie and mark all around the motor mounts. Keep careful eye on the shims. You can probably move the motor forward with a 2x4. They are not that heavy.
 
Thanks! Def will do that and I’ll make sure the shims go exactly as they came out.

Regarding the actual move of the engine - I saw someone had posted that they are about 200+lbs each maybe on the high side of that. Do you mean hoist the engine off a 2x4? Not a tricky question just trying to visualize where that 2x4 would lean on. Would I need couple ppl on both sides push up while i slide it back or would it lay on the hull, or would I need to build something to secure said 2x4?
 
By the way I called nearby dealer and was told $1,000-1,500 and that makes sense I guess considering but definitely not happening if I can help it! :) Rather spend all of it on any tools I need and use them later when needed than end up empty handed after they fix it. And doing it on my own I can also to document the process for other members to benefit the Jetboters community.
 
I think you can just use the 2x4 as a lever to slide it forward without lifting. I am not sure about your 23 footer but pretty certain my 21 foot boat has enough room. It is worth a try as you would not have to disconnect much except the exhaust.
 
Thanks I will look in to it and I hope you are right. I need to tow the boat from the dry stack at the nearby marina this week and as soon as I do I can start measuring and planning. Kind of just getting emotionally prepared for now :(

How much forward would the engine need to go? 3-4 inches or more?
 
Find the factory service manual. It's pretty good for my ar230. It has enough detail that diy guys can get the job done, but might would be over the head of a guy that doesn't own a large socket set.
 
you will need to get someone who has replaced them in the boats I did one in a ski and then I learned not to grease those things and I have never had any further need to replace them even with 600 hours on them,

So Jeff so you not grease them at all? What about at 10 hr service? Just what the manual says?
 
It's Russian roulette, more people blow out the seals greasing the bearings with a grease gun.
I remove the grease fitting and use a big basting syringe with a needle to insert some grease in the housing without causing any pressure, I also advocate using some weed whacker string to monitor the grease by inserting it into the grease fitting opening and then looking at the grease on the string when you retract it sort of a weed whacker dip stick lol but it does let you see the grease and when you are finished reinstall the grease fitting But I am sure someone like that jeep guy can probably give you better advice. LOL
 
That sounds like a great idea! Way less chance of building pressure that way
 
Exactly I ruined one and I was being very careful, the problem with the design is it has no way to vent , and the rubber is bonded to the inner wall of the housing, the hole from the grease fitting is drilled through that rubber, if you over grease it you risk separating the rubber from the inside and this will eventually allow water in to destroy the bearings or you ruin the seals with the same result so I figured this was a way to make sure there was grease with no risk of damaging the part. See pictures where mine actually separated from the housing
 

Attachments

  • Yamaha driveshaft seal and bearing seperated from housing 002.jpg
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  • Yamaha driveshaft seal and bearing seperated from housing 001.jpg
    Yamaha driveshaft seal and bearing seperated from housing 001.jpg
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So when you take the fitting off how much oil do you put in like depth wise that you check with the weedwacker dipstick? I assume I shouldn’t fill it all the way to where the fitting goes in since it will expand right?
 
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