Port Engine just quit. HELP

[MTREADER]

Hoping someone can help, My 2020 Scarab 255 ID Open was cruising about 35 mph 6500 RPMs and the Port Engine just died. I came to a stop and tried resatarting using the push button the red ring was lit up but it wouldn't do anything. The dash had no warning lights or messages. We were in the middle of the Mississippi River so we just limped it back on the running engine back to my club and put it back on the trailer. I did look for blown circuit breakers in the engine compartment near the battery switch but didn't find any blown. I'd like to add I did just buy this boat and had it out only a couple of times. All I know about the boat is that it appears to have 2 Batteries and it just had the Reverse Module replaced by the dealer. Once I got it back on the trailer It did start back up. I'm assuming I reset something when I turnded the boat off with the key and turned it back on. I wish I had done that on the river but was afraid to turn the running engine off.
Any Ideas ? I just hate not having a light or code to try and resolve. I apprciate any and all help.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Yeah, this could be a lot of different things. Bad fuse, bad relay, bad connection, bad ground, bad *insert thing here*.

If there was a fault code, and IF it is still active, it'll be in the settings menu somewhere. If it's no longer active, it'll be stored in the computer but won't be accessible without software.

Considering this is a brand new boat, get it to the dealer asap. We could pick apart everything here while they should hopefully be able to figure things out way faster than we can. If you do, please report back the findings. It's always good for others searching the forum.

Also of note, the Scarab section of the forum is preferred if you want Scarab folks to pay closer attention.

 

[MTREADER]

Yeah, this could be a lot of different things. Bad fuse, bad relay, bad connection, bad ground, bad *insert thing here*.

If there was a fault code, and IF it is still active, it'll be in the settings menu somewhere. If it's no longer active, it'll be stored in the computer but won't be accessible without software.

Considering this is a brand new boat, get it to the dealer asap. We could pick apart everything here while they should hopefully be able to figure things out way faster than we can. If you do, please report back the findings. It's always good for others searching the forum.

Also of note, the Scarab section of the forum is preferred if you want Scarab folks to pay closer attention.

Thank you for all the advice. I have it schedule to go into storage next week and unfortantly closest dealer is 3 hours away so it might have to wait till spring. Thanks Again.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Too bad... but I totally understand.

I'd start by checking for fault codes in the display. Some may not show up unless the engine is running and the fault is active. So you may want to do this in the water. If you do it outside of water, make sure you follow the official flushing procedures and don't run for more than 2 min maximum. All explained in the BRP Operator's Manual.

I'd check relays in the fuse box at the back, check all connections from the battery to the master switch to the wiring harness, etc. All electrical.

The fact that your engine just stopped implies electrical. But who knows. Relays are common failure points and very cheap to replace. I'd consider replacing them all just to rule that out. If it does, great! If it doesn't, keep the old ones as spares.

But otherwise, make sure to communicate with the dealer even now to plan the appointment.

 

[MTREADER]

Thanks Luc, All great advice. Nice having a knowledable person available on the forum. I've had a few Waverunners in my life then went to performance boats last was a 288 Sunsation with Mercruiser so this Jet Boat thing is all new. I've heard some can have extensive electrical challenges but the wife have been wanting one for quite some time. Hopefully we get the bugs worked out and have many years enjoyment ahead.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Definitely hope so. Mine is at over 285 hours now. Pretty flawless. But less complexity since it's a single, non supercharged engine. But I also have a PWC Sea-doo GTX 230. Also pretty flawless. I do treat them well and do it myself. Takes the dealer out of the equation. Sadly many seem to not know what they're doing. But many do. Hopefully yours comes through.

And I try. But it can be tiring. I do like to see others responding. And some do for sure. I respond when I can and when I think I have something to contribute that makes sense.

 

[MTREADER]

Definitely hope so. Mine is at over 285 hours now. Pretty flawless. But less complexity since it's a single, non supercharged engine. But I also have a PWC Sea-doo GTX 230. Also pretty flawless. I do treat them well and do it myself. Takes the dealer out of the equation. Sadly many seem to not know what they're doing. But many do. Hopefully yours comes through.

And I try. But it can be tiring. I do like to see others responding. And some do for sure. I respond when I can and when I think I have something to contribute that makes sense.

Definitely hope so. Mine is at over 285 hours now. Pretty flawless. But less complexity since it's a single, non supercharged engine. But I also have a PWC Sea-doo GTX 230. Also pretty flawless. I do treat them well and do it myself. Takes the dealer out of the equation. Sadly many seem to not know what they're doing. But many do. Hopefully yours comes through.

And I try. But it can be tiring. I do like to see others responding. And some do for sure. I respond when I can and when I think I have something to contribute that makes sense.

Luc, 1 final question... The other engine did go into limp mode and I traveled back at or under 5 mph. I'm seeing I should of clamped a hose in these situations but I didn't. As I stated above I did start the engine on the trailer without issue but did turn it off imediatly. Do I have anything to worry about ? If yes what would be the next steps? Pull Spark Plugs ?

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

If you stayed under 5mph, you'll be fine. When you go above that speed, the NON running pump can start spinning and build enough pressure that water will start to run through the exhaust system. If the engine isn't running, there's no back pressure from the exhaust so water can make its way UP the exhaust system and into the engine.

Generally, they recommend to stay under 5mph and there's no need to clamp in that case. If you do go over, clamping is required. For future reference, I recommend identifying the correct hose(s) with some bright tape or something of the sort and keep clamps onboard. This way it's very quick to identify and get it done even if you plan on going slow.

To verify there was no damage, just inspect your oil. If it's milky white, you have water contamination. But I highly doubt that based on your description.

 

[MTREADER]

If you stayed under 5mph, you'll be fine. When you go above that speed, the NON running pump can start spinning and build enough pressure that water will start to run through the exhaust system. If the engine isn't running, there's no back pressure from the exhaust so water can make its way UP the exhaust system and into the engine.

Generally, they recommend to stay under 5mph and there's no need to clamp in that case. If you do go over, clamping is required. For future reference, I recommend identifying the correct hose(s) with some bright tape or something of the sort and keep clamps onboard. This way it's very quick to identify and get it done even if you plan on going slow.

To verify there was no damage, just inspect your oil. If it's milky white, you have water contamination. But I highly doubt that based on your description.

Will do. Love the tape idea I will inspect oil and mark the hoses before next outing. Thanks Again.