2014 AR190 Leaking and loss of thrust

[giantsmotox]

Hey there everyone, long time lurker and first time poster here on the forum hoping that someone can assist me with a sudden issue I am having with my boat. I have had my 2014 AR190 for 2 years now as the second owner, and it has been flawless with 240 hours on the engine at this point. I always run in salt or brackish water in and around the Chesapeake Bay. As I was out pulling a wakeboarder yesterday, the boat suddenly started making a grinding noise and vibrating, and lost all thrust above 5k RPM. The feeling and sound was similar to cavitation when coming out of the hole pulling someone heavy on a tube or wakeboard, but did not improve as it usually does after a second or two. We limped the boat back to the dock, and were able to maintain 4k without much noise or vibrating. The engine will rev out completely its max RPM, however the boat will not move past 10MPH. The clean-out port and intake were completely clear as well. Upon arriving at the dock I noticed that the bilge was pumping water which was unusual, and upon further inspection I saw that there was a small leak coming from what appears to be the bottom right bolt where the transom meets the intermediate bearing assembly. The leak appears to occur when the engine is off and at low RPMs, however I did not verify if it was leaking at higher RPMS. I have attached a picture and highlighted where the leak is coming from. This leak is only coming from this singular area, and there is no water coming in bilaterally or from other places in the assembly. I have family visiting in 2 weeks for a boat-filled vacation, and will do everything in my power to get this back up and running prior to that. Does this lead one to believe that I blew out sealant and that the area around the bearing assembly can be patched to remove the cavitation and prevent leaking, or is this generally caused by blown out bearings and seals and a new assembly is in order? Thanks in advance for all of the help! - Rob

 

[Acard7]

Did you loosen the bearing housing bolts? Looks like you did in the pic. I’d pull the boat out of the water and pull the pump to inspect the shaft and impeller. Changing the intermediate bearing assembly isn’t that hard of a job if you want to go that route. It would be worth running it on the water and checking the bearing housing at higher RPM. Other than that you can do the usual checks like oil level and air filter but this really sounds like some sort of cavitation issue, whether it’s something you can’t see or maybe the bearing is bad already and needs changed.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

It looks like the intermediate bearing housing is LOOSE from the bulk head and has been so for a long time it appears judging by that white ring around it. You can see the gaps between the bolt head and the bulk head. Just a quick guess you’re sucking a bunch of air in through that gap. The grinding sound? Could be the bearing is shot, have you ever greased that bearing?

Looks like its been leaking for a long time judging by the water line mark on the bulk head.

Chances are you will need to replace the intermediate bearing at a minimum. You will probably need a new rubber Cush drive between the two love joy couplings.

 

[giantsmotox]

Did you loosen the bearing housing bolts? Looks like you did in the pic. I’d pull the boat out of the water and pull the pump to inspect the shaft and impeller. Changing the intermediate bearing assembly isn’t that hard of a job if you want to go that route. It would be worth running it on the water and checking the bearing housing at higher RPM. Other than that you can do the usual checks like oil level and air filter but this really sounds like some sort of cavitation issue, whether it’s something you can’t see or maybe the bearing is bad already and needs changed.

Those bolts were not loosened by me at any point, and I only noticed them looking that way myself was when it started leaking. It would make sense that they could have been slowly working their way loose for the past couple years before showing symptoms. The impeller and shaft look completely fine from the intake, however I will pull those tomorrow to inspect further. I have also confirmed that both the oil level and air filter are to spec. Can you elaborate on what would be typical of a shot bearing assembly at higher RPM? Would I be taking on more or less water? I will attempt to drop it in this week and test it after tightening the bolts. I really hope it could be something that simple...

 

[giantsmotox]

It looks like the intermediate bearing housing is LOOSE from the bulk head and has been so for a long time it appears judging by that white ring around it. You can see the gaps between the bolt head and the bulk head. Just a quick guess you’re sucking a bunch of air in through that gap. The grinding sound? Could be the bearing is shot, have you ever greased that bearing?

Looks like its been leaking for a long time judging by the water line mark on the bulk head.

Chances are you will need to replace the intermediate bearing at a minimum. You will probably need a new rubber Cush drive between the two love joy couplings.

I did not notice the bolts appearing loose until it starting leaking, and am hoping that tightening them up will remedy the issue. We did have some rougher water with all of the boats on the water for Memorial Day weekend, and the boat took a good bit of larger chop. I just recently greased the intermediate bearing when winterizing in November of last year. I have never checked the engine compartment after a day on the water and noticed more than a few millimeters of water, which I assumed was flowing down from the anchor/ski lockers. I am hopeful that there is a small chance that tightening and sealing the housing will resolve the issue. Is it even worth getting a quote from the dealer on an intermediate bearing replacement, or is it something that could be done in an afternoon by someone with a reasonable amount of experience turning wrenches?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I do not think it will be that easy to do quickly.. you have to take the engine loose and move it forward to be able to get the bearing / bearing housing out. The pump has to come out first though.

@madtom has had a heck of a go replacing his..

Post in thread 'intermediate bearing replacement info.'

Yesterday at 10:04 PM

The lack of drama continues. The second intermediate bearing replacement was uneventful. I assembled the new bearing unit and confirmed that when grease is added through the fitting, it flows out at the rear around the shaft. Judging by the grooves machined into the housing, it appears that all the grease is directed toward the rear seals, and I’m not even sure if any reaches the bearing in the middle. I packed that puppy well before assembly so it is good to go. I reused the alignment pins from the old housing.


I plan to disassemble the old bearing assemblies later to...

• madtom

• 
• 

Good to hear you greased the bearing but that grinding sound you heard does not bode well….

You’re either going to need a dealer or a good shop to R&R that bearing. It is a bit distressing that the housing has come loose.

 

[Acard7]

I’d say your problem is definitely related to the bearing housing being loose there. I would pull your impeller and shaft to inspect them. Then I’d peak in to where your impeller shaft goes into to see if you can see the intermediate shaft, if there’s any damage or anything. You can certainly try to tighten the bearing housing back in place but I’d really think it’s time for a new one, since the rubber and the housing have probably detached somehow and that’s why it’s loose. I would tighten it back in place though, to make sure when the bearing is pulled you have the right measurements on the shaft itself. Mark the coupler side with a sharpie. The bearing is bad when it leaks. Hard to believe yours isn’t bad just because it’s loose like that. Just hope you didn’t grind any metal between the shafts.

I replaced my intermediate bearing on my AR230 and it took me 2 hours. You need a press to press the shaft out of the old bearing housing and press it into the new bearing housing after you measure the shaft sticking out of the bearing opposite of the coupler with a micrometer (I marked the shaft along the rubber on the coupler side too). I ran into no problems while replacing mine though. Below is the link to my experience. Although it’s a different engine it’s the same concept of how to do it on yours too.

My Bearing Replacement

 

[tdonoughue]

I guess what worries me is the grinding sound. I think your intermediate bearing is impacted. Look at the replacement stuff posted here--think that is for you? Does that fall into 'reasonable experience with the wrench'? These machines are not (really) all that complex. Part of what I like about them. I would do it in a minute (especially with the folks around here). But it really is what you are up to.

Other option is to bolt it up (well, probably need something between the transom and the bearing) and try it on the water. See if the grinding continues, if there are leaks... and then go from there. Might get you through the 2 weeks. Or it will show that you have something more serious.