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If you are going to work on your own boat, you have to be a contortionist of sorts unfortunately. You have to suck it up, lay across the engine and just "git er dun"
Some things are ugly to do but it keeps money in your pocket
Update: Thanks to the kick in the ass from you gentlemen I decided to save my pennies and got the right tools for the job. I ended up finding that the final bolt I was doing back-bends to get to was stripped and seized in there, but after an hour of penetrating oil, small turns and sweat equity I was able to remove all motor mount bolts. I am a one-man operation for this job, and was wondering if there was a smart way to move this engine back without pulling it off the mounts. As you all know it is heavy and awkward to move and does not seem to be something I want to just yank around mindlessly due to the connections still present. I also found what appears to be a shim hanging out in the engine bay? Lastly, I know that I need to replace the bearing housing assembly and rebuild/replace the impeller. When ordering the bearing assembly does it come with off of the circlips to do the job? I also am not sure what to look for regarding the rubber shaft coupling/coupler. They *appear* to be fine to my inexperienced eye, but do they usually get replaced alongside the bearing (assuming it was ran slightly misaligned for a short bit after the bearing went out)?
Housing has successfully been removed. I assume at this point this has to go to a dealer/machine shop and get the old shaft pressed out of the current housing and into the new one?
Housing has successfully been removed. I assume at this point this has to go to a dealer/machine shop and get the old shaft pressed out of the current housing and into the new one?
Wow that was shot! Yea you need a press to press the shaft out and push the shaft into the new one. I suggest measuring the distance from the end to the lip of that disc thingy opposite of the coupler with a micrometer, this is how far you press the new one onto the shaft, mark it with a sharpie too but you need to measure it to be precise how far you press it on. Compare the replacement bearing housing too though to make sure it has that disc with a lip too, otherwise measurements may be different. Below i marked where you need to measure it if replacement bearing is the same. I hope that’s how far you need to press it on, mine was not as bad as yours where it literally fell apart like that. I’m not sure a service manual states the measurement needed, I know there’s a proper distance with feeler gauges between engine and shaft couplers. Does the bearing housing move freely on the shaft like it looks then?
Also when it’s pressed off and back on make sure the press isn’t pushing directly on the shaft and new bearing housing. There’s usually square blocks to place between the press and what you’re pressing it into.
Wow that was shot! Yea you need a press to press the shaft out and push the shaft into the new one. I suggest measuring the distance from the end to the lip of that disc thingy opposite of the coupler with a micrometer, this is how far you press the new one onto the shaft, mark it with a sharpie too but you need to measure it to be precise how far you press it on. Compare the replacement bearing housing too though to make sure it has that disc with a lip too, otherwise measurements may be different. Below i marked where you need to measure it if replacement bearing is the same. I hope that’s how far you need to press it on, mine was not as bad as yours where it literally fell apart like that. I’m not sure a service manual states the measurement needed, I know there’s a proper distance with feeler gauges between engine and shaft couplers. Does the bearing housing move freely on the shaft like it looks then? View attachment 234973
Thank you for all of the help with this, your responses are truly appreciated! Yes, the shaft slides fore/aft and laterally in the housing. I have a shop doing it, so I will make sure that they match the factory depth of the shaft. It is not a Yamaha dealer specifically, but they do jet skis so my fingers are crossed that they aren't clueless. I am truly hoping that this was my issue with the thrust and that this relatively cheap repair solves it. Judging by how loose it is I cant imagine that this wasn't the culprit.
I honestly can’t believe your bilge wasn’t running constantly with how bad that was mine was bad but not near as bad as yours and it sprayed water like a fire hose around that bearing when I checked with the wife at the controls! Either way I’d say that was a major problem with your thrust issue along with your chewed up impeller, but the bearing absolutely and unequivocally failed on you.
One last thing to note. On the side with the coupler there should be a rivet in the middle of the coupler itself or maybe the newer coupler does not have a hole. Just make sure there isn’t a hole or the rivet is in place otherwise if there is a small opening it can leak water slightly through it.