Port engine quits

[Gym]

[USERGROUP=9]@HELP[/USERGROUP] on the water at the dock. Port engine starts but quits as soon as key is released. Ran the boat for about 20 minutes today after launch. Noticed port tack was intermittent. Put someone at the helm while I looked at the wiring harness in the aft starboard locker. As I touched the harness the tack came alive so I knew I had a bad connection or corrosion. Boat ran fine though.

Back at the dock I took the port connector apart (10 wires) and sure enough the red wire connector was corroded apart and was only making occasional contact. I took the red wires out of the male & female sides of the connector and wire nutter them together until I can buy the correct lugs. Now, it will start but quits as soon as I release the key. If I hold the key in the start position it will continue to run. I checked all the usual stuff like ECU fuses, hatch & lanyard switches. Starboard engine runs fine. Thoughts...

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Did this problem start right after you wire nutted the Reds?

 

[Ronnie]

I can't think of any obvious causes that you haven't already checked out. To stay on the water, just without a tach, can you reverse what you did to the stock wiring?

 

[Scottintexas]

could it be a bad key switch, since when you release it it turns off? could you swap key switches to see if that helps?

 

[Scottintexas]

is the connecter you took apart at the YDS connector or behind the helm?

 

[subysti]

Check your clean out hatch switches. Could just be coincidence that it's not working.

 

[Gym]

Did this problem start right after you wire nutted the Reds?

Yes @Murf'n'surf . I can't reverse the procedure as the connector was corroded so wire nutting was the only temporary option until I can buy a new lug and solder it. Thanks for the manual.

 

[Gym]

I can't think of any obvious causes that you haven't already checked out. To stay on the water, just without a tach, can you reverse what you did to the stock wiring?

No @Ronnie the corrosion ruined the wire lug so wire nutting was my only temporary option.

 

[Gym]

is the connecter you took apart at the YDS connector or behind the helm?

Yes @Scottintexas. I believe the YDS is the 3 wire connector though. The one I'm having trouble with is the big 10 wire connector labeled Port. It's only the red wire that was corroded. That's why I took them out of the plastic connector and wire nutted them together.

 

[Scottintexas]

[QUOTE=" I looked at the wiring harness in the aft starboard locker. ...[/QUOTE]

sorry I read to fast and missed that,

I would guess at this point if the red wire corroded maybe the run wire isn't making good contact and you just can't notice it. maybe look at the wire coming off the ignition and you can jump it over the connector also,

I'm going out to look at my boat to get a better idea, good luck

 

[Scottintexas]

I'm just throwing stuff out here,
what if you plug the connector into the other engine, at least to trouble shoot the problem is on the forward side,
I'm trying to look in my manual now to see which wire on the 10 pin connector is the run,

 

[Gym]

I'm just throwing stuff out here,
what if you plug the connector into the other engine, at least to trouble shoot the problem is on the forward side,
I'm trying to look in my manual now to see which wire on the 10 pin connector is the run,

Thanks @Scottintexas That is doable as the wire harness is close. I'm just not sure about the consequences of doing that. Will there be any ECU issues or fuse issues? Not sure.

 

[Bill D]

On my 2011 the red wire also has to connect to the red/yellow wire to provide the "run" signal as well as the brown wire to provide the start signal for the starter relay. You might be able to look at the starboard harness to see if there is a similar set up on your boat.

 

[Scottintexas]

I looked through my service manual and couldn't find anywhere a schematic of that 10 pin plug,
I don't think switching them would cause any issues because it just the wiring coming from the helm, ??

 

[Ronnie]

I think @Big_D maybe onto something.

 

[Gym]

Ok, looks like I had 2 problems. The tack problem was fixed when I removed the red wires from the 10 wire connector and wire nutted them together to bypass the corroded connector lugs. The issue that prevented the boat from continuing to run after start IS a defective ignition switch so @Scottintexas you win the genius of the month award.

When I launched I noticed the Port engine would start, then die. I restarted it and it died again. The third try it stayed lit. I thought that a little odd but brushed it aside when the tach issue started. That was traced back to a corroded wire as I stated earlier. When I rewired the tach wire and went to start the port engine to test it, that's when the ignition switch gave up the ghost leading me to believe it was related to the wiring harness I was messing with. Evidently the previous restarts at the dock was the ignition switch dying. Who but @Scottintexas would have guessed.

NOW, NEW PROBLEM. The switch is on back order from Yamaha until the END of July but I did find two in Miami. Also the switch has been changed with individual connectors on each wire rather than a neat modular connector so I will have to cut the modular connector off of the defective switch and splice it onto the new switch so I can easily connect to the wiring harness.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[Scottintexas]

YES !!!!!!!! THE WINNER IS ME !!!!!!!!!!

I would have really thought you had another corroded wire in the connector but you have to start somewhere,

 

[SCSTWG]

Once again, the forum comes through.

 

[Gym]

Once again, the forum comes through.

YES it did BIG TIME. Love you guys.

 

[itsdgm]

That's awesome @Gym. Glad that your mystery is solved.