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Price of rebuilt 1.8 for our SX240

Spaggs

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The wife and I own a 2013 SX240. Through neglect, on my part, I may have to replace both of the motors on the boat. I didn’t winterize them and the engine compartment filled with water because I didn’t open the drain plug.
When I take it to the shop, what kind of pricing should I expect to hear for rebuilt engines?
Thanks.
 

Ronnie

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I don’t think you have disclosed enough information for anyone to give you a reliable estimate of the costs. What is wrong with the engines other than fresh/rain water getting into the engine compartment? How high did the water get? Do the engines start, turn over? What have you done to diagnose the problem(s)? What did you find?

nothing personal but if feels like you are asking for a cost range even though you have done, or at least disclosed, little or nothing about the problem(s). If this is what you want I estimate that, with some deviation for varying labor rates between states, it will cost around $20k to replace each engine if done at a yamaha dealership.

here are recommendation for the future should you continue to own a trailered boat of any kind. 1. Install a cover with and anti pooling system to keep rain water out of your boat or at least minimize how much gets in. 2.Pull the drain plug at the end of each season.
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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Have you checked the oil ? did you remove the plugs to see if water actually went inside the engines . you need to know if it was damaged the 2013 year was also a timing chain year and if the engines are bad get a couple of P W C engines and use those.
 

Spaggs

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Thanks for the input. Looks like I have some homework to do.
 

biffdotorg

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Ronnis is right. I find it nearly impossible to "fill" an engine bay with water from rain/snow. Even if I don't cover my boat, how does that much water get into the bilge? It should go out the floor drain and scupper. Unless water got into the ski locker and drained to the engine bay, but still, if the doors were closed, how.

Then the follow up is, that water would have had to have been so high it was ingested into the engine. Like into the air box and sucked in if started. if not started, it's still possible to drain and avoid hydro locking an engine. And what does winterization have to do with this. I think a dealer is guessing, or someone with minimal engine experience. Water, by itself, in the engine bay will cause no damage, even if run halfway up the side of the engines.

And as Ronnie said, pull your drain plug, but not at the end of the season, whenever it gets put on a trailer. It's at a great angle to drain on the landing while you put your transom straps on. It's the law in many states these days anyway.

Good luck,
 

Scottintexas

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Thanks for the input. Looks like I have some homework to do.
so tell us how high the water got ? did it go over the top of the engines ? half way up ?

have you tried to start it yet ? don't, have you looked at the oil level ? definitely look at it,

as the others have said, I find it hard to believe water made it up to the air filter and even then if you didn't try to start it yet your still in a relatively recoverable position without involving a mechanic or replacing engines,

where are you at ? there may be a member close by that could help you trouble shoot it,
 

Spaggs

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One of my neighbors suggested starting it and letting it run and see what it does. He said I should have an attachment that would allow me to run water through a garden hose through the engine. I don’t.
Where are the attachment(s) on the boat to do this?
I’ll have to get one of of those attachments from West Marine, if they have them.
 

Scottintexas

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don't try to start it until you know there is no water inside the engine,

starting or running the engine could cause catastrophic damage,

how high was the water ???? then we can start to help you
do you have a picture showing the water line ??
 

fatboyroy

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I would check the oil first before running it :rolleyes:
 

Spaggs

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This is the water height. See pics:
I hate to bring this up, but last winter I forgot to winterize the engines. I know, I know, I’m an idiot. Just too much on my plate with a mother who has Alzheimer’s and my wife with multiple issues including seizures with multiple back operations due to falls, etc.
So, I do have that, as well as the high water marks.
Thank you for your patience.
 

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Scottintexas

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so it looks like the water did not get to the top of the engine, that's good because as long as the water didn't enter the engine through the air cleaner you should be ok,

I would,
1. check the oil and make sure it's the right level and color ( not chocolate milkshake )
2. remove the spark plugs and make sure they are not wet and no visible water (you probably can't see into the cylinders)
3. with the spark plugs out crank the engine a few times, if there was water in the cylinder it would get blown out,
4. replace the spark plugs
5. try to start the engine, if it runs, let it run for 30 seconds (without the water hose attached)
6. check the oil again
7. go buy a flush adapter, probably a local jetski shop will have one,

if it won't start or crank then we'll have other issues as the starter was probably submerged,
 

Scottintexas

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flush hose adapter,

all you need is the black attachment,

I can't remember on your boat if the flush port is by the rear cabin seats near the cup holders, a port on each side,

it's EXTREMELY important to remember the procedure when running the boat on the water hose,
1. start the engine
2. water on
3. water off
4. stop the engine
 

Scottintexas

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Cambo

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Next step remove the spark plugs and crank it over have somone watch for water while you crank it. These motors can easily survive no winterization and water in the engine compartmnet is reported on this site multiple times every season at your level or higher. Scupper valves, water lines, drain plugs and clean out plug blow outs seem to be the most common ways they fill up with water both salt and fresh many even survive water in the oil. Keep us posted hopefully its a non issue
 

Spaggs

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All spark plugs look dry and have a light color of gray.
I found water in the port side air intake filter housing. I’ve tried to pull the filter out, but I’m looking to pull the back plate off by unbolting it from the fuel tank aft wall. Is there a trick to this?
I was able to check the starboard air filter, but am having a tough time getting all four sides to evenly shut. Is there also a trick to this?
Thanks again.
 

Ronnie

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All spark plugs look dry and have a light color of gray.
I found water in the port side air intake filter housing. I’ve tried to pull the filter out, but I’m looking to pull the back plate off by unbolting it from the fuel tank aft wall. Is there a trick to this?
I was able to check the starboard air filter, but am having a tough time getting all four sides to evenly shut. Is there also a trick to this?
Thanks again.
Remove the large diameter hose between the air filter box and engine before you pull the air filter element out and reinstall the hose after you put the air filter element back in. This will make it easier to remove and reinstall the air filter cover, it’s held in place by 6 to 8 clips on the sides of the air filter box. If the filter is wet dry it out or replace it eventually, you can run the engine without the filter if you need to.
 

Spaggs

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Thanks for the tip. Ordered a new filter from Parszilla, last night. Ouch, what a price shock. I could’t find a Wix, so I went OEM. Hopefully, I won’t have to replace it again.
 

Spaggs

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Should I torque the spark plugs or is it just ok to do the usual wrist squeeze?
 

Scottintexas

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Should I torque the spark plugs or is it just ok to do the usual wrist squeeze?
did you crank the engine with the spark plugs out ???

it's very important you follow the procedures at this point since the filter housing had water in it,

how long ago did you drain the water from the engine bay, yesterday last month ??

hand tight is sufficient for reinstalling the spark plugs,
 
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