ProMariner ProSport 20 on 2018 242X

[GTBRMC]

Note I chose nylon spacers specifically due to nylon's thermal characteristics. Melt point 320 - 530 F, ignition point >790 F (depending on exact nylon type used). I wanted both air gap behind charger to aid in charger cooling and a telltale if charger was getting really hot. Nylon fit the bill and the spacers were readily available at local hardware store.

Also, I suggest avoiding polystyrene spacers as its melting point is about 100 F lower than nylon.


Edited to correct typo.

 

[Mainah]

Ill take your word for it and go with the 20 then @Island Jay. Any advice on which switch to use?



Got it, Thanks Julian!



That's Perfect! Thank you for that link @GTBRMC. I had tentatively planned on using a couple pieces of wood but those spacers look like a superior design.




I was concerned about the health of the battery. The Black DVSR cable was indeed disconnected and it is connected now and has been for a couple of days but I will not be using the boat for another week or two so im hoping no more damage will be caused to the battery while its sitting idle waiting on the new charger to be installed. I guess my dealer will be needing to get a phone call soon if it turns out that the battery does have an issue.


Should the DVSR cable make a significant difference in the ability to keep the battery topped of or should I still expect it to be discharging regularly like it already has just not so badly? I was secretly hoping that the solar panel could bring it back after a few days in the sun waiting for the ProSport to be installed.

With the black dvsr wire not connected your house battery was not getting a charge from either the solar panels or the engines. So you were only draining and never replacing power. With the wire connected the difference will be a huge one the battery is topped off. It will take a long time for the solar panels alone to do that. Also keep in mind without doing the engine on mod that the house battery is also drawing from the start battery as long at the start battery is above the cut off volatge and the dvsr itself has start has a draw just to sense voltage. Add to that the unregulated solar panels may putting out up to 18 volts in full sun and they are likely is holding the dvsr closed for hours a day meaning your house battery is draining the start battery given the volatge delta between the two. If you only fixed the black wire and did not run the eninges much you may find that you need a jump pack if only a few days getting juice from the panels. Hence the dvsr engine on only mod and a dual bank solar controller recommendation that I sound like a broken record on.

 

[Expedition_Recreation]

Note I chose nylon spacers specifically due to nylon's thermal characteristics. Melt point 320 - 530 F, ignition point >790 F (depending on exact nylon type used). I wanted both air gap behind charger to aid in charger cooling and a telltale if charger was getting really hot. Nylon fit the bill and the spacers were readily available at local hardware store.

Also, I suggest avoiding polystyrene spacers as its melting point is about 100 F lower than nylon.


Edited to correct typo.

Got It. I will be using the nylon spacers as you recommended.

With the black dvsr wire not connected your house battery was not getting a charge from either the solar panels or the engines. So you were only draining and never replacing power. With the wire connected the difference will be a huge one the battery is topped off. It will take a long time for the solar panels alone to do that. Also keep in mind without doing the engine on mod that the house battery is also drawing from the start battery as long at the start battery is above the cut off volatge and the dvsr itself has start has a draw just to sense voltage. Add to that the unregulated solar panels may putting out up to 18 volts in full sun and they are likely is holding the dvsr closed for hours a day meaning your house battery is draining the start battery given the volatge delta between the two. If you only fixed the black wire and did not run the eninges much you may find that you need a jump pack if only a few days getting juice from the panels. Hence the dvsr engine on only mod and a dual bank solar controller recommendation that I sound like a broken record on.

Thanks Mainah! That is very good to hear. I was still unclear what EXACTLY the DVSR wire being connected would change. The boat has been sitting in full sun since last weekend so im hoping that the solar was able to help it along a little bit but I will not be using it again until my ProSport 20 charger comes in and I get it hooked up and top off the batteries. From there I am thinking the solar panel will be able to do its job and we wont need the charger much but it will still be nice to have hooked up for various situations.

Thanks for all the input everyone!

 

[Daron]

I installed this same charger on my 2019 242 LSE today (3 bank charger). I know it may be an over kill right now for batteries for just the stock stereo system, but I went ahead and bought another Interstate House battery and wired it inline to the factory installed house battery. I plan on upgrading the stereo components soon to more speakers, bigger speakers, and amps, so I wanted room to grow. I also installed the Norco Genius GCP1 AC Port Plug for convenience (first hole I drilled into my boat BTW, 2" hole). I installed the charger on the carpet covered wooden wall facing forward in the battery seat compartment. I installed 1/2" nylon spacers between the charger and the wall surface to allow for maximum cooling and ventilation of the charger, and put two extra mount holes while I was at it. So total mounting is 6 screws on the charger. While I was at it I adjusted the factory installed batteries. Our well known wonderful Yamaha assemblers just threw my battery trays in, not squared, not parallel, and totally crooked and it was an eye sore for my OCD. So I tried to line up all 3 batteries nicely in a row. Honestly, other than sweating my BUTT OFF in the already hot and humid Alabama heat, it was a relatively quick and easy install. I'm really happy with the outcome.

 

[Daron]

 

[AJack]

Nice job re-positioning the batteries. It seems the Yamaha placed them in mine so that it would use up the most amount of space. I'll probably be trying to re-do mine next weekend.

 

[iamcalled]

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I just added a third battery to my 2018 AR240 was getting ready to install this exact charger this weekend. A couple of questions if you don't mind. Assuming that you wired all three banks, positive and negative to each of the batteries separately, did you need to add any additional switches for the charger to operate correctly? I have read on other threads of the DSVR causing issues with chargers functioning properly. Second question: I was thinking of mounting the charger in the same spot you did, did you reinforce the board with a second l bracket anywhere or just the factory one at the bottom and have you taken it out on the water yet to ride test if for real world use to ensure it doesn't fall off or cause the board to fall apart? Thanks for your time and consideration.

 

[AJack]

First question: My batteries had two terminals, so I added the battery terminals with thumb screw. I disconnect the negative DVSR wire when I plug in the on-board charger. Part of my start of procedures before taking the boat to the dock includes reconnecting the wire.

Second question: I installed the ProSport 12 in the same location and was looking for a way to increase the stability of that board - it moves around fairly easy with the one "L" bracket at the bottom. If someone does think of a method to increase its stability, I'll like to hear. Since the board "lays" towards the front of the boat, I usually place something next to it to prevent the board from flopping.

I just added a third battery to my 2018 AR240 was getting ready to install this exact charger this weekend. A couple of questions if you don't mind. Assuming that you wired all three banks, positive and negative to each of the batteries separately, did you need to add any additional switches for the charger to operate correctly? I have read on other threads of the DSVR causing issues with chargers functioning properly. Second question: I was thinking of mounting the charger in the same spot you did, did you reinforce the board with a second l bracket anywhere or just the factory one at the bottom and have you taken it out on the water yet to ride test if for real world use to ensure it doesn't fall off or cause the board to fall apart? Thanks for your time and consideration.

 

[iamcalled]

First question: My batteries had two terminals, so I added the battery terminals with thumb screw. I disconnect the negative DVSR wire when I plug in the on-board charger. Part of my start of procedures before taking the boat to the dock includes reconnecting the wire.

Second question: I installed the ProSport 12 in the same location and was looking for a way to increase the stability of that board - it moves around fairly easy with the one "L" bracket at the bottom. If someone does think of a method to increase its stability, I'll like to hear. Since the board "lays" towards the front of the boat, I usually place something next to it to prevent the board from flopping.

Thanks for the info

 

[Island Jay]

I would suggest mounting that charger against wood and then the wood to the boat. That charge gets very very hot and has been known to melt carpet it has been near.

 

[AJack]

I placed about 1/4"-1/2" spacers between the carpet and the charger. Think that'll suffice?

 

[Daron]

I just added a third battery to my 2018 AR240 was getting ready to install this exact charger this weekend. A couple of questions if you don't mind. Assuming that you wired all three banks, positive and negative to each of the batteries separately, did you need to add any additional switches for the charger to operate correctly? I have read on other threads of the DSVR causing issues with chargers functioning properly. Second question: I was thinking of mounting the charger in the same spot you did, did you reinforce the board with a second l bracket anywhere or just the factory one at the bottom and have you taken it out on the water yet to ride test if for real world use to ensure it doesn't fall off or cause the board to fall apart? Thanks for your time and consideration.

**DISCLAIMER** I am not an electrically smart guy. From my research and what I have been told we do not need an additional switch, it's just tying the two batteries together, and the original factory installed one is wired into the "House" switch, which will kill both batteries going to whatever source they provide power to. So far no issues with it charging, to include the DSVR (I think). I have not taken it on the water yet to test its strength in the mounting location I chose. With that said, like you I debated whether or not that one "L" bracket would be enough to support it. I think it should be fine after trying to wiggle it and see how strong it is, and of course I will examine it after the first run, and a few subsequent runs after that as well. Worst case if it it isn't strong enough (which will answer @AJack question as well), I will just install a simple "L" bracket on the far outboard side that is against the Port side of the hull. As I understand it, there is a space/gap between that inner wall of the seat/battery compartment and the outer hull fiberglass, where the fuel line hose goes down from the filler port to the gas tank that you can't see because of the double wall construction. So worst case if the one factory installed "L" bracket ends up not being enough then only one additional one should be way more than enough, two along board on that same wall if you really want to get a warm fuzzy about the strength.

 

[Daron]

I placed about 1/4"-1/2" spacers between the carpet and the charger. Think that'll suffice?

I did 1/2" spacers, I can't say with any proof yet if that will be enough, but I suspect it will. One of my next inexpensive projects coming up in a couple of weeks is to install two 4" louvered vents in ALL FOUR seat storage compartments, the two in back and the two in the bow. Two each to allow for proper ventilation and circulation so pressure doesn't keep warm air from escaping, defeating the purpose.

SeaLux Stainless Steel 4 Inch Marine Boat Engine Louvered Style Vent Cover