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Purchasing a 2006 AR210

CaptRedbeard

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
179
Reaction score
248
Points
112
Location
Omaha, NE
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2016
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
Hey all - I’m new here but already gaining a lot of insight to the jet boat world from you guys. We’re coming from a 17ft stern drive and looking to purchase our 2nd boat. We’re pretty much sold on a Yamaha jet boat (engine noise being the biggest downside). Family of 4 with two kids under 6. I occasionally board and our oldest is beginning his tubing career, but mostly family cruises and sandbar with up to 6 adults and 4 kids.

I have been talking with an older gal who is downsizing boats and selling her 2006 AR210. It’s located about 5 hours away. We’re both located in the Midwest and lakes are currently frozen over. I’m fairly confident in my boating and mechanic knowledge that I would be comfortable buying a boat based on the YDS readouts, compression test, oil check, starting engines on the hose, etc. I know a few things to check for on these boats such as the plugs and scupper valve, but won’t be able to test the no wake or throttle cable issues without a lake test.

She offered to meet me midway, but I would rather drive to her so we can hook it up to the hose and start the engines (unless I’m missing a way to do that at a wal-mart or gas station…) I’d assume this would give me a little more bargaining leverage as well. Is there any other huge reason that I shouldn’t consider buying a AR210 without a water test?

Listing price is $20k. Attached the listing photos. Thanks for the help!
 

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Boat looks pretty nice, sucks you can’t get a water test. Really can’t test how good the intermediate bearings are without it being in the water. 20k doesn’t seem too bad pending how many hours are on it.. If you wait until you can drop it in the water the seller will most likely raise the price. Does this boat have the MR1 engines?
 
Boat looks pretty nice, sucks you can’t get a water test. Really can’t test how good the intermediate bearings are without it being in the water. 20k doesn’t seem too bad pending how many hours are on it.. If you wait until you can drop it in the water the seller will most likely raise the price. Does this boat have the MR1 engines?
With all the ads we’ve been looking through, I didn’t realize that this one has no photos of the engine bay. I’ll check in on that and report back. I assumed all AR210s of this era had the MR1 engines, no?

I’m unfamiliar about issues with the intermediate bearings, can you elaborate?

We have 3 days of 50+ degree weather coming up but I’m not sure that will be enough to melt the ice..
 
I want to really assume that the AR210s had the MR1s but not 100% sure. Intermediate bearings wear out due to overgreasing and ruining the seal or just normal wear and tear. Don’t be afraid if you find one that’s bad, they are actually very easy to change. Here’s my write up when I changed mine, you’ll have to scroll down to find it. As you will see it’s a major component that connects to the engine coupler (with the impeller connection shaft & coupler pressed into it).

 
I want to really assume that the AR210s had the MR1s but not 100% sure. Intermediate bearings wear out due to overgreasing and ruining the seal or just normal wear and tear. Don’t be afraid if you find one that’s bad, they are actually very easy to change. Here’s my write up when I changed mine, you’ll have to scroll down to find it. As you will see it’s a major component that connects to the engine coupler (with the impeller connection shaft & coupler pressed into it).

Nice write up, thanks. How many engine hours did you have when you replaced it?
 
Good to know. Anybody have any idea if the bilge leaking from the bearing would be noticeable when running on a hose?
No it is not. Need to be in the water to see that.
 
Yes - you will be able to see the leak (if it is there) when running on a hose, may not be noticeable at idle but if you push the revs up then it will become easily visible - I just had this issue on my boat.
 
Yes - you will be able to see the leak (if it is there) when running on a hose, may not be noticeable at idle but if you push the revs up then it will become easily visible - I just had this issue on my boat.

Not sure how that is really possible to do that since the water on the hose is going into the engine and out the pisser and down and out the exhaust and some out the water intake, the bearing is on the shaft in the jet pump. Could someone elaborate on this?
 
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Just received a couple videos from the seller. Here’s a screenshot of the video of the engine bay. Doesn’t appear to be the MR1 engine I’m familiar with - this one has a separate air filter on the intake manifold, any insight on this?
 

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looks like 1052cc 110 HP version of the MR-1... I think you had to go to the AR230/230 HO in that era to get 998cc 140 or 1052cc 160HP MR-1's and all three MR-1's are a fair bit different... according to boats.net fiche for 2006 model year:

AR210 - FRT1100CE - 110HP
AR230 - SRT1000BE - 140HP
AR230 HO - SRT1100BE - 160HP
SR210 (FRT1100E) - 110HP
SX210 (Black) - FRT1100BE - 110HP
SX210 (Blue) - FRT1100AE - 110 HP
SX230 - SRT1000AE - 140HP
SX230 HO (Black) - SRT1100AE - 160HP
SX230 HO (Red) - SRT1100E - 160HP

but we all know Red is faster :)
 
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looks like 1052cc 110 HP version of the MR-1... I think you had to go to the AR230/230 HO in that era to get 998cc 140 or 1052cc 160HP MR-1's and all three MR-1's are a fair bit different... according to boats.net fiche for 2006 model year:

AR210 - FRT1100CE - 110HP
AR230 - SRT1000BE - 140HP
AR230 HO - SRT1100BE - 160HP
SR210 (FRT1100E) - 110HP
SX210 (Black) - FRT1100BE - 110HP
SX210 (Blue) - FRT1100AE - 110 HP
SX230 - SRT1000AE - 140HP
SX230 HO (Black) - SRT1100AE - 160HP
SX230 HO (Red) - SRT1100E - 160HP

but we all know Red is faster :)
Super helpful, thanks! I’m hoping for 350-400 hours when I pull the YDS - anything over that I think I’d be less inclined to pay close to her asking price. Anything to be concerned about with the 110hp MR-1 other than high hours?
 
might be a bit under powered but Im told that with proper maintenance these are quite reliable... at least that what Im hoping as I just built a pair of 0 hour 160HP engines to replace the 135 two strokes that get 300 hours plus or minus before they need attention... I run my boat 200-300 hours a year and mucking with and swapping the old 2 strokes every 12-18 months was getting old after 5 years..
 
Thanks all for the input. I’m currently setting a time to drive 4+ hours to see the boat. Only thing I noticed wrong with it is the engine compartment soundproofing has deteriorated and fallen off. Other than that the only concern I’d have is higher than normal engine hours.

Any specifics I should look for on the YDS?
 
Obviously look up the hours and then diagnostics and previous codes. Check oil before and after test (if you’re taking a ride), make sure it’s not milky. And I can’t stress this enough, even though you already probably know, make sure you can get the clean out plugs out and back in easy. Also check the impellers out underneath, see if they are in good shape.
 
Lots of good info here so far. I'll just add my 2 cents based on my Sx230.

Price is cheap, especially for what seems to be a clean boat. I get it has standard output motors, is a 21 footer, etc... But still feels like it's priced VERY aggressively to me. I bet it'd sell for 25k in spring.

Have you been on a 23 footer? I'll be honest, my 23' would get cramped with 4 plus people on board, we we just cruised out to the sandbar to drink and chill. If you're bringing water sports gear, kids friends and/or their parents, a 21 foot might get tight pretty quickly.

I love my boat overall, these Yamaha are awesome. Pretty good on gas, handle great, and very reliable. They did use some cheap materials on the seats and IMO Bimini and such, but these are like 15 year old boats now., so it makes sense for that stuff to be worn out. My yamaha is my first boat, and odontnreally have anything I'd want to upgrade to.
 
Lots of good info here so far. I'll just add my 2 cents based on my Sx230.

Price is cheap, especially for what seems to be a clean boat. I get it has standard output motors, is a 21 footer, etc... But still feels like it's priced VERY aggressively to me. I bet it'd sell for 25k in spring.

Have you been on a 23 footer? I'll be honest, my 23' would get cramped with 4 plus people on board, we we just cruised out to the sandbar to drink and chill. If you're bringing water sports gear, kids friends and/or their parents, a 21 foot might get tight pretty quickly.

I love my boat overall, these Yamaha are awesome. Pretty good on gas, handle great, and very reliable. They did use some cheap materials on the seats and IMO Bimini and such, but these are like 15 year old boats now., so it makes sense for that stuff to be worn out. My yamaha is my first boat, and odontnreally have anything I'd want to upgrade to.

4 people and cramped? There’s a ton of room on the 230 series, are we talking about the same boat? Haha. I had 8 adults on my AR230 in the ozarks, and everyone had room; had 6 adults and 4 kids at our local lake and no one was cramped. I’ve had more people in awe of how much room we actually have on the 230, never had one person complain, yet….We came from a 19ft I/O though, no head, and rated for “8 people,” so that was a boat where the wife, kid, and I + gear made it almost impossible for more people to come!!

Definitely agree on not needing an upgrade though, these 230s are a solid all around boat! I’d like to ride in one of the newer 250 models to get a feel for the new hulls, and the wife likes them, so we all know how that’ll turn out in the future..
 
Thanks for the input all. There is a AR230 for sale not too far from me as well, but it is a 2005 and also has the standard output motors (I think 150hp for the 230?). Probably ever so slightly better cared for but I don't see the justification for the additional 5k.
 
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