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Question about Ballast Tanks and Seacock

JDRacing

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
262
Reaction score
218
Points
147
Location
Northern Calfornia
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2018
Boat Model
212X
Boat Length
21
Does anyone know whether the ballast tank seacock on "X" models, which has inlets for both ballast tanks, allows water to pass from one hose to the other? In other words, if you close the seacock are the two tanks/hoses connected via the seacock inlets? Or does each tank tube drain to an isolated part of the seacock and out the through-hull so they are not inter-connected? I'm thinking they would be isolated if they are supposed to be able to be drained independently. Otherwise pumping out one tank would send water to the other while trying to send it to the drain below the waterline. But not sure.

I ask because I'm trying to design a system to flush the ballast tanks without having to remove each tube/hose clamp from the seacock to hook it up to the lake authority's flushing line. Thinking of using diverter valve(s) in the hoses. If they are connected together via the seacock, I could use one diverter valve (installed in-line to one of the fill/drain hoses) to flush both tanks simply by closing the seacock (which sits on a bunk and is the reason I have to do this in the first place) and redirecting the water via the diverter valve toward the other tank through the seacock inlets.

Thanks for any insight.

Jeff
 
If your looking to flush your system I made a jumper cable to power up each motor individually from the battery . I put a notch in the bunk and can wedge a hose into the inlet and suck water in from a 5 gallon bucket then reverse the polarity and pump it out.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/ballast-pump-jumper-cable.19754/

The x only has one inlet the water will not transfer from one tank to another the pump design when not running will not let water pass through. If you look under the boat you should see part of the seacock valve sticking out from the trailer bunk . This position could cause future problems the flange projects about 3/8” off the hull the 2x6 bunk board gets twisted there is a significant amount of force pressing on that flange . Look at the carpet and you will see the location the carpet is completely crushed I pulled back the carpet notched the wood and tapered the area in case the boat shifts on the trailer . The bunk now lays flat on the hull and now you have access to feed a hose into the inlet .


See the picture of the hose wedged into the fitting

https://jetboaters.net/threads/2017-yamaha-242xe-mods.19753/
 
Last edited:
Thanks @Cambo. Unfortunately, my inlet on the hull sits square on the bunk. So I don't think notching the bunk to get to it is a good idea, as it may seriously compromise the integrity of the bunk. I'd actually have to put a hole right through the bunk. That's why I'm exploring the in-line diverter valve, so I can run a flush hose over the side of the boat and drain and fill both ballast tanks.

Your comment about water not transferring from one tank to the other because the pump prevents it from doing so is extremely helpful. That means I can flush water through the hoses from one side to the other with the seacock closed, and I just need to run the pump to get it into whichever tank I'm flushing. Then reverse the diverter valve and run the other pump to flush that tank. Reverse the pump to drain the tank.

If/when I do this modification, I will try to post some pictures. For me, this is totally the result of needing to be able to access and let the lake authorities flush the ballast tanks for places like Lake Tahoe.

Jeff
 
I’m not sure about how much force they can hold back . I guess you could try it and post results . When I was notching my bunk I thought it may be better if it was centered then the bunk carpet could be stripped off the bottom and an additional 2x6 x 30” added and screwed together for support then carpeted leaving a hole leading to the drain . On my boat the bunk was pressing half way on the fitting and the 2x6 bunk was exerting uneven pressure. The amount of force to deflect a 2x6 is pretty extreme one of two things would happen the board would eventually form a bow or the fitting and hull could crack and leave a hard to detect leak.

How will you energize the pumps ?

What is the orientation of your pumps impeller on top or bottom I know the
2019 have the impellers at the bottom
 
My pumps have the impellers at the bottom, as they are mounted in the boat. That puts the Water Puppy label facing the right direction, although I'd imagine they could be run with the impeller either up or down.

I will send you a p.m. on energizing the pumps.

Jeff
 
I’m not sure about how much force they can hold back . I guess you could try it and post results .
Those reversible pumps like Johnson's function 100% as valves, too, there is no blowby when not turning.
Like many aftermarket (Wave Makers) systems mine has no valves, just pumps.

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