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Really weird issue need help. Engines overheating randomly Yamaha/Dealer says it’s not happening

Why would you turn off a engine. We have jets. Not like you are going to get chopped to pieces. I have never turn off engines with a downed wakeboarder or tuber.
If they need to climb the platform or even get really close - the engines are OFF.
There is no real neutral in these jet boats, so that's a risk, but a bigger issue is the exhaust.

@NewBoater the blowers certainly help - when the engines are OFF between runs, no question about it. When the engines are ON the blowers won't hurt anything but are superfluous as the engines move 100times more air through the compartment, as long as the intakes are free of obstacles.

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If they need to climb the platform or even get really close - the engines are OFF.
There is no real neutral in these jet boats, so that's a risk, but a bigger issue is the exhaust.

@NewBoater the blowers certainly help - when the engines are OFF between runs, no question about it. When the engines are ON the blowers won't hurt anything but are superfluous as the engines move 100times more air through the compartment, as long as the intakes are free of obstacles.

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Thanks for those tips and I agree when we are switching to a new rider or they are coming in for a break the engines are turned off as I have always said it’s better to be safe than sorry. I guess there is no point in running the blower while we are actually doing the tubing and going over 15-20 mph.
 
I have never had tubing cause an overtemp on my boat. My overtemps were caused by incorrectly manufactured parts from Yamaha. I don't recall having an overtemp since then.
I remember this now! You posted the partially obstructed Y-couplings, wasn't it?

Do you think that could be the issue with @NewBoater's boat?
I have had 2 overheats like that (related to aggressive curving/ tubing) in my 190, none in the 240, different engines but the @NewBoater's alarm seems to come on a bit too easy, no?

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The answer to your gas question @NewBoater is no. Your engines are optimized for the gas that is recommended based primarily on engine compression.
 
I remember this now! You posted the partially obstructed Y-couplings, wasn't it?

Do you think that could be the issue with @NewBoater's boat?
I have had 2 overheats like that (related to aggressive curving/ tubing) in my 190, none in the 240, different engines but the @NewBoater's alarm seems to come on a bit too easy, no?

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I also remember @buckbuck's issue. There was flashing from the manufacturing of his plastic Y fitting causing his overheat issue which he had to drill out. Still amazes me how he found that.
 
I had this happen from day one with my 2014 sx210. It would go into limp mode on one engine or the other. Could be a hour or two or in the first 10 minutes of boating. They changed all the sensors on the boat many times. For the first year i had boat 6 months of it, it was at the dealer for repairs. They finally pulled all the heads and said that there was corrosion in the engine. I was like this boat is new and was only fresh water??? They said it needed 2 new engines. Summer was coming and wasn't going another 3 months with a boat i am paying maria fees on that is sitting at dealer. I had a 2 month battle with Yamaha but they bought it back and I got a Ar240. So much better
I had this happen from day one with my 2014 sx210. It would go into limp mode on one engine or the other. Could be a hour or two or in the first 10 minutes of boating. They changed all the sensors on the boat many times. For the first year i had boat 6 months of it, it was at the dealer for repairs. They finally pulled all the heads and said that there was corrosion in the engine. I was like this boat is new and was only fresh water??? They said it needed 2 new engines. Summer was coming and wasn't going another 3 months with a boat i am paying maria fees on that is sitting at dealer. I had a 2 month battle with Yamaha but they bought it back and I got a Ar240. So much better

Hopefully some MR-1 experts will chime in!

EDIT: Can someone tell us how bad is the corrosion in those cooling channels, please. I can't tell - I remember @CrankyGypsy posts where his where nearly obstructed, those (in @greg's post ^^^pics) don;t look nearly as bad... IDK.

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It is amazing that I found this thread and it is shedding some light on my situation (refer to my current post @Iknowyouknow) I have been told by the dealer that my motors are corroded because of salt water intrusion after an overheating issue. Apparently this can and does happen.
 
It is amazing that I found this thread and it is shedding some light on my situation (refer to my current post @Iknowyouknow) I have been told by the dealer that my motors are corroded because of salt water intrusion after an overheating issue. Apparently this can and does happen.
Keep in mind those are MR-1 engines (non-HO versions?), different that the TR-1s in your boat.

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When it happens again take pictures and then bring it in with proof. Have you checked clean outs/intakes for obstructions/seaweed? Also look at cooling water lines for kinks.

Can someone help me I was riding my 2017 ex Sport today and about 20mins in the red warning light beeped and check engine light came on. I also notice the computer screen that shows Kms and gas and check lights went blank reset and came back on!??
 
Just took my boat out for the first time of the year and for the first 10 minutes the port engine was overheating. No tubing or anything going on just a casual ride from the dock back to my lift at the house. Do you guys think I should try replacing the overheat sensor for the port engine? Does anyone have any tips how to do that? Are there any threads for it? I’m not super mechanically inclined. Thanks!
 
Just took my boat out for the first time of the year and for the first 10 minutes the port engine was overheating. No tubing or anything going on just a casual ride from the dock back to my lift at the house. Do you guys think I should try replacing the overheat sensor for the port engine? Does anyone have any tips how to do that? Are there any threads for it? I’m not super mechanically inclined. Thanks!

Just reading through this thread and normally I would suggest some mechanical options to try but the fact that the overheats are not being logged by the computer makes me wonder if it isn't computer or electrical related - that puts me out of my depth. If it was a mechanical or sensor related it should be logged when the dealer grabs the codes.
 
Just took my boat out for the first time of the year and for the first 10 minutes the port engine was overheating. No tubing or anything going on just a casual ride from the dock back to my lift at the house. Do you guys think I should try replacing the overheat sensor for the port engine? Does anyone have any tips how to do that? Are there any threads for it? I’m not super mechanically inclined. Thanks!
Those are MR-1, not TR-1, engines, correct? If it's the MR-1 maybe @buckbuck and @Scottintexas and @itsdgm and @Speedling will chime in, they have encyclopedic knowledge of cooling/exhaust systems of those.
With the TR-1s there were some weird overheating issues in algae infected waters - with FSH?

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Just took my boat out for the first time of the year and for the first 10 minutes the port engine was overheating. No tubing or anything going on just a casual ride from the dock back to my lift at the house. Do you guys think I should try replacing the overheat sensor for the port engine? Does anyone have any tips how to do that? Are there any threads for it? I’m not super mechanically inclined. Thanks!

I would pull the boat from the water and make sure there is no debris in the intake/impeller or on the inlet screen at the back of the nozzle and then give it another run around the lake, I would never change a sensor at the first indication of overheat unless I had some definitive reason, to many other possibilities,


.
 
I would pull the boat from the water and make sure there is no debris in the intake/impeller or on the inlet screen at the back of the nozzle and then give it another run around the lake, I would never change a sensor at the first indication of overheat unless I had some definitive reason, to many other possibilities,


.

100 percent agree with this. While engine sensors are known to malfunction for various reasons it is improtant to fully diagnose. Can’t hurt to run a diagnostic on the sensor with a multi meter. I would lean towards checking for a cooling water intake obstruction first.
 
I don't know which motors you have but i am used to trailering my boat so i am also used to poking around and seeing if all is good.
Above suggestions are good but i would also run on the hose and see if it overheats like that. Be sure it's running, then turn water on. If it's a real overheat issue it should take a few minutes (not an hour or anything) to hit the alarm. If a sensor, it probably would pop on right away.
If on the hose it's not doing it then certainly check the screen at the pump and the hose leading in.
 
I would pull the boat from the water and make sure there is no debris in the intake/impeller or on the inlet screen at the back of the nozzle and then give it another run around the lake, I would never change a sensor at the first indication of overheat unless I had some definitive reason, to many other possibilities,


.
I have the same exact boat and this happened to me twice. The first time, I did the reverse maneuver and it cleared. The second time was on a shallow ramp and the overheat happened. I had my wife cut the engines, I had already put the winch strap on and cranked as far as I was comfortable with. I backed the trailer deeper, winched it all the way up and pulled out. I then looked at the intake screen and a piece of debris was blocking it, no issues since.
 
Those are MR-1, not TR-1, engines, correct? If it's the MR-1 maybe @buckbuck and @Scottintexas and @itsdgm and @Speedling will chime in, they have encyclopedic knowledge of cooling/exhaust systems of those.
With the TR-1s there were some weird overheating issues in algae infected waters - with FSH?

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Ha!! Tell me about those overheating issues with the FSH.....LOL
 
I have the same exact boat and this happened to me twice. The first time, I did the reverse maneuver and it cleared. The second time was on a shallow ramp and the overheat happened. I had my wife cut the engines, I had already put the winch strap on and cranked as far as I was comfortable with. I backed the trailer deeper, winched it all the way up and pulled out. I then looked at the intake screen and a piece of debris was blocking it, no issues since.

Because I do most of my boating in the Keys, weed is a huge issue for us so I never drive the boat on the the trailer, I have someone rope guide it unto the bunks and I winch it the rest of the way. There is all kinds of floating "junk" at the ramps so it is a little more work but worth the savings in aggravation.
 
Because I do most of my boating in the Keys, weed is a huge issue for us so I never drive the boat on the the trailer, I have someone rope guide it unto the bunks and I winch it the rest of the way. There is all kinds of floating "junk" at the ramps so it is a little more work but worth the savings in aggravation.
I bet , we typically boat at a clean but muddy lake. My issues both times were at keystone. Which is a not so clean lake with ramps that are steep as hell because its so shallow
 
Thanks for tips guys. I’ll peek under there in next few days while it’s on lift. It’s never done it while flushing. It’s just a very random thing and goes away completely if I let it cool off engines off for 5 min. Just getting very annoying as it’s happening like every other trip now.
 
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