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Rebuilding a 2004 Triton Elite WCII

ScarabMike

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
2,223
Reaction score
2,061
Points
302
Location
Green Cove Springs, FL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2022
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
19
What's up folks!

Well my Scarab is long gone, but I do have both of my Yamaha Waverunners. I was looking for a nice double trailer, and everything I saw was 2k-3k. I decided to look for an older one to rehab. It would be a fun project, and get me something reliable to tow my two skis. After some time looking around, I ran into a jet ski junkyard. Took a ride there because they had a Continental (I-Beam construction). As I was checking it out, there she was...

2004 Triton double with a torsion axle. It looked like it was left to rot in the weeds, and at one point submerged in water for a good length of time. It was missing both fenders, one set of bunks, and was in bad shape. But the bones...... the bones were good.... LOL

The wheels were barely on the spindles, and the bearings were shot. I got it for a steal, so I slowly towed her home. Oh yea, the lights were either broken, filled with water, or missing.

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Finally got her home. It was worse than I thought. Even though the hardware was either aluminum or stainless on this thing, the white coating had eaten through and seized pretty much everything. The torsion axle had some surface rust on both spindles, but was still strong, and thankfully not affected by the elements. Time to go to work. I will try to get some part numbers for this build as I go.

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I purchased some Aluminum cleaner from Amazon that had some awesome reviews, and looked like it would do a good job cleaning some of the green algae growth, and hopefully tackle the calcium looking rot. It was hard as a rock. It worked good, but in the really bad spots, it needed some wire brush action, and multiple applications. FYI, if you use this stuff, its acid based. Use it with personal protection, and make sure the area is ventilated.
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Before:
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First application:

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Next up, removing the surface rust, and rebuilding the hubs.

Before:
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After:
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Products used:

Bearing buddies -
Hub Kit -
C.E. Smith Company Galvanized Hub Kit | Academy (These are awesome because they have a zirk fitting in the inner hub.
 
Damn! Looks good. Nice to see you back.
 
The wiring was all dry rotted and brittle. I changed out the complete harness, and replaced all of the lights to LEDs. Also finished cleaning the residue, and calcium build up. The bunks were a pain to take off because of the seized hardware. A little hammer action, and some cutting got them off with no damage to the trailer frame.

Cleaned trailer:
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New lights on new harness from Triton:

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All the lights on at full brightness only draw .5 watts of power.

Products used:
Optronics Oval 6" LEDs (2)

Optronics yellow clearance lights

Optronics 4" trailer lights (2)

Novalight 2" trailer lights (3)

Triton WCII Wiring harness
 
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Time to get the jack replaced!
The old one was extremely rusted out. The gears inside were just spinning because the teeth were all broken off. Unfortunately there was no stainless hardware available. Im going to have to keep coating it with CRC 656 to try to lengthen its lifespan.
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The brackets finally came in from Triton. I messed up and only ordered one side, but at least the other side is prepped. Time to get some pressure treated 2x4s, and some bunk carpeting.

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The original bunks were 6" long. this was an issue when buying the bunk carpeting. They sell 8"x 12' sections. But you have to extend the fabric about 2-3" past the ends of the wood. That caused the section left to be too small to use. I had to get a separate roll for each.
You have to make sure that you use stainless steel staples when covering your bunks. I'll go into how to wrap your bunks in the next post.

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Parts used:

Bunk Carpet. 4 rolls

Bunk/Trailer brackets: 4 sets. Came with stainless hardware.

Bunk attachment brackets: 8 of them.
 
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Next up: Bunk rollers!

I used the 3" bow rollers from Academy. They are strong, and will hold up to the heavy usage. I will be changing out the old bow stop assemblies for the new and improved ones, but these will be interchangeable.

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Parts Used:

3" Bow Rollers
 
The brackets for the other side of the trailer have been back ordered. The wait begins. I tried to rehab the old ones, but this chalky build up was just too much. Even dipping them in muriatic acid for a couple hours didn't work. So I decided to go ahead and mount one of my skis on the trailer to check the fit. I was impressed!

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Finally got the right fenders. The older triton trailers has Karavan style fenders that screwed in from the bottom. If you rehab one of these older trailers, you'll need to get the ones that I post at the bottom. They make them with a hole for the incandescent marker lights, but I got the solid ones as I'm going to be wiring up my own marker lights.

The fenders will screw in with stainless 1/4x3/4" bolts and washers.I used Phillips head ones to make it easier to remove in the future. Its actually your choice as long as they fit through the provided holes.

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The holes in the bottom allow for three steps of alignment. I have some 13" rims on some nice fat tires, so I used the outermost holes.

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It was time for the maiden voyage of the rebuilt trailer. Only one side is complete, but i figured it would be a good idea, and the ski that had been sitting on the cart for months needed to be run anyway.

I strapped everything down, hooked it up the the vehicle, and went on my way. I got back in the evening, and I loved how bright this trailer looked. And it rolled like a dream!! Better than my single.
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The torsion axle is worth every bit of money on a trailer. In my Touareg since it is a unibody vehicle, alot of the road noise resonates inside the truck when towing with a trailer with spring suspension. It something you get used to. But the torsion because its basically rubber bands, soaks up almost 100% of that road noise. It's also less bouncy. Amazing!

I got tired of waiting for the new bunk brackets, so I decided to try again and take the old ones apart. They were badly seized up because of the aluminum and salt oxidation. I threw them in a bath of acid, and left them there for a few more hours.

Aluminum does oxidise, and it takes a long time to see oxidation at this level.

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While those were soaking, the new updated bow stops/winches came in. These are far superior than the older ones. They also give you tons more adjustment. Out with the old, and in with the new.
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Comparison of the old swing arm style, and the new slide style. Much safer to use.

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Nice work! I would love to see a price comparison when you’re all finished.
 
I got the brackets apart, and got some new hardware. These Tritons use 3/8" X 5" bolts for these hinges, and 3/8 X 1.5" screws for the bunks.

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Now for the "how I do" on the bunks. I've used this method of wrapping bunks for years. It has never failed me.

You are going to need a strong staple gun with stainless staples. I use a pneumatic with T50 staples.

1. Place the wood on the bunk carpet on a flat surface. Make sure the wood is centered on the carpet.
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2.Make sure you have at least 4-5 fingers of material past the wood on each side.
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3. Cut the carpet material, and when you have the carpet centered place 2 staples on either side to hold the carpet on the wood while you work your way down. I prefer to use on staple every 2".
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4. Make a diagonal cut in a 45 degree angle on the outer edges.
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5. Then on the lower part, make a cut straight towards the bunk.
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6. Staple the small flaps you have created against each other, and flat against the wood.
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7. Then lay the last remaining flap over the tip of the bunk, and over to what will be the lower face. Then staple tight and flat.
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Once I got the bunks in place, and the hardware semi tight, i got some measurements on the spacing where I wanted the bunks to support the ski. I like the bunks to land right under the chime.
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Well thats all folks! The trailer is completely done. I will be adding some other things to it here and there like ratcheting straps, and possibly a tool box. But The second ski is on, and Im now ready for the spring!
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