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Reverse throttles not synced

Jameson Clark

Jetboaters Lieutenant
Messages
567
Reaction score
378
Points
172
Location
Laurens, SC
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2017
Boat Model
X
Boat Length
21
I posted briefly about this months ago when I first got my boat along with a multitude of other questions. Thanks to everyone's help, I have pretty much worked out everything else or realized it was a normal characteristic for this boat except this. So, in forward, the throttles are about perfectly synced with no issue. But, in reverse, they are WAY OFF! Watching the throttles move in the engine compartment verified one throttle has moved a large amount while the other is still sitting at idle. The only things I have verified so far are that the buckets are full down together as soon as put in reverse at idle and if using the wake mode/cruise buttons instead of the throttles, the motors rev at the same amount.

Any ideas how to correct this or what it could be? I know it is something I could get covered by warranty but my dealer is a month out and if it is something simple or just an adjustment, I'd rather just do it myself. Thanks for any help!
 
Interesting. The throttle lever mechanism is very mechanical. I did not think there was much adjustment in forward vs reverse adjustment, so if working fine on forward but not in reverse, that is odd.

I can take some pictures of the inside of the mechanical throttle levers I have at home this evening to see if that helps.
 
Maybe I'll pull the throttle lever assy apart tonight and just look... :confused:
 
Maybe I'll pull the throttle lever assy apart tonight and just look... :confused:

Looking reverse to your findings. Seriously mine are the same way. I have the mechanical throttle sync and have to split the throttles to go in straight reverse.
 
Weird.. Don't open it yet, at least wait for my pictures so you have the benefit of seeing what it is all about.
 
Looking reverse to your findings. Seriously mine are the same way. I have the mechanical throttle sync and have to split the throttles to go in straight reverse.

Mine are way off, I can work around it, but it really is rather annoying!

Weird.. Don't open it yet, at least wait for my pictures so you have the benefit of seeing what it is all about.

Ok, I'll wait and see your pictures. I'll shoot a picture tonight of where my throttles are when they both barely move the throttle linkage off of idle to show how far off they are.
 
Mine are way off, I can work around it, but it really is rather annoying!



Ok, I'll wait and see your pictures. I'll shoot a picture tonight of where my throttles are when they both barely move the throttle linkage off of idle to show how far off they are.

Mine are in near perfect sync for fowards as I adjusted things to be that way. In reverse it can be almost 1k rpm off if I don’t disengage the throttle sync. My assumption is that just the naturw of the beast and quite common. Would be interesting if there is some kind of adjustment to be made. @Speedling came up with the throttle drop fix. I did do that and it worked great. Perhaps he has some valuable input on this?
 
No idea how to adjust
 

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There is a circlip on the stud holding it all together. It feels so clunky, does not appear to be a presission instrument. It seems the channels on that flaring piece regulate the throttle, but I don't see an independent adjustment on reverse vs the forward movement.
 
If you need any other pictures let me know!
 
I grabbed this from my throttle dropping fix for reference, sorry for the writing on it. I still need to locate original photos actually!
file.php

Just for reference, both cables could be off depending on what the problem is!
1. One is throttle, and the other the gates. Once apart you can undo the C clips and pull on them to see which one moves levers on the engine (may need to remove parts to see them move) or at least feel the resistance of the gates.
2. With the C clips off, you are able to take them out, sure, BUT if you lose that small rubber piece they are going to just sit in there and have a bunch of slack.
3. If the rubber piece is in place, and the "knuckles" of the cables appear to be locking into place at the bottom of the shifter box (bottom left of above picture)then...:
4. Each cable has a locking nut and can be screwed in and out for adjustment. Remove the C clip, pull off the metal shaft, and you should be able to see how this adjustment works.
5. You would need to see if there is a drastic difference between sides so you MAY need to have both apart at the same time! I would mark which one is closer to how you want it, and which one you think would have the most slack/adjustment. Essentially compare and contrast!
6. The cable at the throttle end is adjustable I believe as well, however it's been a while since in mine, and each motor will be different I am sure! I know there was a screw stop or something in my MR-1 but that's about all I remember.
7. I know you said you did, but for reference to anyone reading, check the reverse gates as you move the cable in and out to make sure everything is correctly adjusted as well.

You are basically trying to make sure things match in rpms so it may be a bit of a guessing game or playing in/out with the cables to get it adjusted correctly. I would look for the obvious issues of things not being locked in correctly first, and work your way to fine adjustments.
8. I should have taken new pictures when I went in and oiled my cables this spring, but I was hard pressed for time with both jobs asking for 12 hours a day and bimini prep in full swing.
Hope this helps, and I am SURE the bright minds will find anything I missed!
~Lee
 
The weird thing is there is no adjustment between forward and reverse, and OP mentioned forward works just fine.

Because of that aspect of it... I'm stumped.
 
I just pulled this apart on mine this last weekend. So it is fresh in my mind. What @swatski posts is very accurate. But I am with @Beachbummer . If you adjust as @swatski 's post suggests, you should throw the forward throttle out of adjustment, too, I think.

And I think you get the same effect as above by just adjusting the other side of the cable, which is much easier. Unless you bottom that out, you should not need to pull apart the throttles.
 
The fact that forward is near perfect is what had confused me this whole time. I was busy adjusting tongue weight tonight so I didn't have a chance to pull the cover off and snap a picture of how far they're off but I'll be in the boat tomorrow.
 
It takes quite a bit to get the plate off, and the whole thing to come apart, but I do wonder what yours does when you move the lever all the way into reverse. Maybe the internal grooved plate has a different shape in one side vs. the other? It's a lot of work to pull apart, so if you are under warranty and can wait for winter (If such a thing applies to you) I would consider it. (This is coming from the guy that hates letting anyone else work on my boat..so go figure)

If you feel confident and have a circlip tool, don't stop on my account :)
 
I just pulled this apart on mine this last weekend. So it is fresh in my mind. What @swatski posts is very accurate. But I am with @Beachbummer . If you adjust as @swatski 's post suggests, you should throw the forward throttle out of adjustment, too, I think.

And I think you get the same effect as above by just adjusting the other side of the cable, which is much easier. Unless you bottom that out, you should not need to pull apart the throttles.
I'm innocent here. I didn't do nothing. Not me...

EDIT: Uh - you must have meant @Speedling - he is awesome.

--
 
And I think you get the same effect as above by just adjusting the other side of the cable, which is much easier. Unless you bottom that out, you should not need to pull apart the throttles.
By this - you mean where the cables connect at the APSs, correct? (inside the engine bay, on the side/bulkheads)

--
 
The weird thing is there is no adjustment between forward and reverse, and OP mentioned forward works just fine.

Because of that aspect of it... I'm stumped.
That's why i made an elaborate post essentially saying: that's all there is, so something's loose/not connected or broke!
I mean, you basically gotta lay them out and apart next to each other and do a compare and contrast to see what's going on.
Could be cable connection is loose, could be the levers are broke or binding, could be something engine or gate side etc.
May be a warranty thing lol
 
It must be something else... But seeing it makes me think either the groove is not cast right, or the circlip is missing and causing the plate to not lift in reverse.

I have no clue what it really is.

Let us know if you find out.
 
I just had a thought as I'm driving around for work. If you have the throttles apart you should be able to take the cables by hand and move them without using the levers. The reverse bucket cable might be a little stiffer but the throttle one should be pretty easy. If everything moves as it should then it's not the cables I'm just trying to eliminate things.
 
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