Ride steady question

[Augieol65]

I want to install ride steady but avoid the screen that isn’t mounted flush. Does anyone know the depth of the unit and if I could install in by the throttles flush with the black plastic wall? Here?

 

[J-RAD]

@Ridesteady? Do you have the answer?

 

[djetok]

I want to install ride steady but avoid the screen that isn’t mounted flush. Does anyone know the depth of the unit and if I could install in by the throttles flush with the black plastic wall? Here?

@Ridesteady

 

[MidnightRider]

I want to install ride steady but avoid the screen that isn’t mounted flush. Does anyone know the depth of the unit and if I could install in by the throttles flush with the black plastic wall? Here?

If I understand you right I don't think it will sit flush. This link has the width and height if that helps - Hydrophase Ridesteady Guage Sizes.

 

[swatski]

I want to install ride steady but avoid the screen that isn’t mounted flush. Does anyone know the depth of the unit and if I could install in by the throttles flush with the black plastic wall? Here?

It should be easy! Those are just like the factory gauges, and like PerfectPass - used to be just a replacement for the factory non-GPS speedo.
Many here installed speakers on that surface, it is at least 3-4" deep, I don't recall when I did it, check out @fraserjr posts on speaker install. But the R-S should fit.
I would not put it there though as you will want to use it all the time, at least I do. I want to see the dial - I use the R-S virtually all the time except when docking.

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[Augieol65]

It should be easy! Those are just like the factory gauges, and like PerfectPass - used to be just a replacement for the factory non-GPS speedo.
Many here installed speakers on that surface, it is at least 3-4" deep, I don't recall when I did it, check out @fraserjr posts on speaker install. But the R-S should fit.
I would not put it there though as you will want to use it all the time, at least I do. I want to see the dial - I use the R-S virtually all the time except when docking.

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Yeah looks like I’ll go with the separate screen. You definitely say it’s worth the cost?

 

[swatski]

Yeah looks like I’ll go with the separate screen. You definitely say it’s worth the cost?

No doubt (in my mind) - especially for the twin. It is like the fly-by-wire AND "single lever throttle" mode in E-series, and I think the knob is actually a better interface - especially in rough water. When you get pounded in chop, staying on plane - good luck adjusting throttles by hand...

A cruise control is kind of needed for watersports, not just convenience - holding constant speed makes for more predictable, more enjoyable, and safer experience.
But, I use R-S all the time when riding, not just for water sports - and usually in "RPM" mode ("RPM" for cruising, "GPS speed" for sports). Once you become accustomed to it, it becomes a second nature. I usually just push the throttles all the way up (out of the way) and chnage RPM by turning the knob. Grab/pull the throttles to override the system, if needed.

For longer cruises - it also saves gas - as you can finagle best cruise RPM/speed settings looking at the "trip" screen info for speed/rpm/fuel burn and make small, precise adjustments with the knob - difficult if not impossible with the levers.

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[Ridesteady]

@Augieol65 The depth of the "external display" is about 1 inch, without the knob. The knob adds another ~0.7". The Ram Mount adds about another minimum 1.8" to the back. So, overall depth with mount but without knob is a minimum 2.8", with knob, about 3.5".

One thing to consider, though, is that these sunlight-viewable LCDs aren't the best for side-angle viewing. It's best to be at a right angle to the LCD for the best visibility.

 

[Augieol65]

@Augieol65 The depth of the "external display" is about 1 inch, without the knob. The knob adds another ~0.7". The Ram Mount adds about another minimum 1.8" to the back. So, overall depth with mount but without knob is a minimum 2.8", with knob, about 3.5".

One thing to consider, though, is that these sunlight-viewable LCDs aren't the best for side-angle viewing. It's best to be at a right angle to the LCD for the best visibility.

Thanks for the intel!