Scarab 165 Mods

[Sfriesen]

Thanks for sharing, I need to consider doing this as well

 

[Stacey in SC]

So.... I FINALLY got to test out my soundproofing. Sorry for the huge delay. We've had epic floods up here in the Ottawa/Ontario region. Boat bans on my nearest body of water. They've finally been lifted so I got out last night.

I couldn't remember the exact testing I did last year, so I did something very similar. I then plotted the results together and time shifted each test. As you can see, the tests aren't identical (didn't do a max RPM/speed last year for example) and time periods aren't quite identical. But I think this graph shows the results quite well.

Dislcaimer: I used two different phones for this test. A Nexus 6P (no soundproofing) and a Pixel 3XL (soundproofed). Both times, the phone was placed in the exact same location via a phone mount I have (just left of the steering wheel). Conditions were different. There was much more wind during the soundproofed test which can be easily observed during the Ambient period at the start and end. There were also more waves/choppier waters.

With all that being said, as I predicted, the wind noise dominates at higher speeds and the engine noise is insignificant. So if you're looking to quiet down your engine at higher speeds, it just won't matter. BUT at lower speeds, not bad at all! At idle (1700RPM), the noise dropped from 91db to about 81 db. After reading up on db, 3 db = a double of energy BUT in order for the human ear to perceive a doubling, you need to drop by about 10db. So although it's a reduction of about 8X the noise energy, the noise level dropped by about half of what it was to the human ear. As you can see, as you speed up, then other noises come into play and the difference is reduced by the time you get to high speeds.

Is it worth the investment and work? Good question. lol I'll let you decide. But it's the first actual data I've seen on soundproofing the 165.

Luc, thanks for the post. Did you add/change the gasket material around the engine compartment?

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

No. Left it as is. It's pretty well sealed in my case. I have to push down a little hard to latch it. But yeah, if that wasn't sealed well it could make a pretty big difference.

 

[Stacey in SC]

No. Left it as is. It's pretty well sealed in my case. I have to push down a little hard to latch it. But yeah, if that wasn't sealed well it could make a pretty big difference.

Thanks Luc!

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Time to post a few more things I've done. I just moved my in hull transducer. I did some testing on the lake first but haven't re-tested it since. I decided to move it at the farthest position towards the stern. JUST to the side of the drain plug (you can do it on either side of the boat). If you had a bigger transducer, this spot won't work. But in my case, it's pretty small and so it can shoot right beside the ride plate which is located very close to this position. But it's a clear spot. Did the usual sanding, cleaning the hull with acetone (don't try it on the transducer, it will degrade the plastic/rubber they use) and then I installed it using marine silicone for the time being. No air gaps as usual. Silicone usually works quite well but I have yet to test it on the water since as mentioned before. If for some reason it eventually let's go, I'll epoxy it in properly.

For those wondering, this is the SonarPhone from Vexilar. It comes with the T-Box SP200. Creates a wifi signal that your phone/tablet can connect to and that becomes your display. It also plays nicely with Navionics! Which means Navionics allows you to display both the map AND the sonar simultaneously, split screen which is pretty awesome on a little 165. There's no space to mount a big display, but my phone mount (seen in a post that will come up below shortly) holds my phone perfectly positioned to see/control everything. Navionics will also take the sonar data and will update the public maps with your depth data which is pretty cool.

A few downsides, when connected to wifi, your phone doesn't know there's no internet and so you lose mobile data while connected. So that kind of sucks. Data OR sonar, but not both. Also, it seems you have to type in the default 12345678 password a lot when connecting. Finally, because there's no internet on that wifi, you need to acknowledge that there's no internet on this wifi connection before it will stay connected to the device. Apparently you can indicate to the phone to remember this so you don't have to do that each time, but there appears to be a bug in pure Android on my Google Pixel 3XL where it won't remember. Hopefully others don't have that issue on iOS or Samsung phones, etc.

Overall, a few little issues but pretty awesome considering this is on a 165.

Edit: If someone is wondering, yes, I tried the transducer right beside as well which did work. But the fiberglass is quite thick at this point and got a better signal where it is located now.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Phone mount.

I've been searching for the past several years for a great option on my 165. I finally got one after trying various options.

Scanstrut makes a wireless charger phone mount, waterproof and designed for marine use BUT it's very expensive AND it only outputs 5W of wireless power. Phones can charge with up to 15W wirelessly now.

Note: these will be Amazon CANADA links.

Enter this specific motorcycle wireless charger mount: iMESTOU Auto Clamping Motorcycle Phone Mount Charger Wireless qi & USB Quick Charging 2 in 1 Handlebar Cell Phone Holder 9CM Stem 1" Ball Mount 720 Rotation Quick Release for 3.5-6.5 Inch Smartphone: Amazon.ca: Electronics

It's waterproof, has built in Qi charging up to 15W if your phone can do it, has a switch at the back allowing you to switch to Qi wireless charging, off or USB where there is a port at the bottom of the unit. It works on 12-24V DC. It's very, very solid, one hand operation with a spring loaded clamp feature and holds the phone very, very well. The 2 ball adjustable arm is very nice and strong too. The only issue is there's no handlebar on a 165 of course. So I confirmed that it uses a 1" ball. Therefore I ordered a standard RAM 1" ball mount. There are many to suit your preference. I decided to go with a AMPS base (4 holes, DRILLED, yes, I know, scary shit but it's a standard, so in the future, you can replace the base with something else that's AMPS based) 1" ball mount that is actually secure. I discovered over the years of rough water that you really do need something very solid.

Ram Mount 2.5-Inch Composite Round Base with The Amps Hole Pattern and 1-Inch Ball : Amazon.ca: Electronics

Ram Mount 2.5-Inch Composite Round Base with The Amps Hole Pattern and 1-Inch Ball : Amazon.ca: Electronics

www.amazon.ca

So after some careful testing/positioning, I finally drilled some holes. *cringes* 4 + a middle hole to run the wire inside. I also drilled a hole in the base to run the wire.

Finally, cleaned up and bolted through. For the wire, I cut it in front of the fuse to have the wire as small as possible, then ran it through the base and hole in the dash. On the other side, I reconnected everything using water tight electrical crimps and connected it to the ignition power source. Then everything was bolted (no screws) in place.

End result is fantastic. Solid. I keep it on wireless charging since it's connected to the ignition. Key must be on to power so I don't have to mess around with the little switch at the back of the mount. The double ball joint arm is awesome and allows lots of adjustment up/down/left/right to position the phone where you want it. No cables to deal with.

Overall, very pleased with this option.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

LED bow light.

Finally, courtesy of Cody Steele on the Facebook Scarab page, I found this light in Canada at Canadian Tire under a different brand than in the USA.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/led-bi-colour-bow-light-0791238p.html

Apparently available on eBay in the USA under Shoreline Marine brand.

It's a very low profile bow light that just happens to fit nicely. Comes with various white coloured bases, but no need on the 165.

Removed the old base, expanded one of the holes so the new light would fit. Then drilled two new holes for the mounting. Sealed the other two with 3M 4200. Crimped the connections with waterproof connectors and installed. Voilà! Now bow light pole needed anymore. In my case I still need the stern light pole since I don't have a tower. But one less thing to deal with and it was an easy project.

 

[Winerocks]

Good old Crappy Tire! Awesome job on the recent installs. I like the low profile light. Every time I put the post in, I cringe. It’s only a matter of time before one of my kids breaks it. Definitely a mod I’ll do soon. I’m planning on a Garmin transducer inside the hull (I’m not drilling through my transom...ever). I’ve been using my fish finder as a map only. With the twin engines, I don’t have as much room to work with.

 

[ChrisM]

The front nav lights were on a pole?

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Yeppers! Many of the Scarabs apparently including the 165. It's a short, 1ft tall pole. Kind of stupid looking lol

@Winerocks yeah, I can even flip my engine hatch partially over so I can stand inside the engine bay when working. Pretty great! Otherwise, accessing this area would be a complete nightmare.

 

[ChrisM]

Yeah seems kinda silly. Chaparral did one that rotates away, leaving a near flush stainless oblong shape behind. Probably made by Aqua Signal as this looks the same.

Aqua Signal 24600 Series 24 12V Navigation Light with Tell-Tale Indicator, Bi-Color Hideaway Deck Mount, Stainless Steel - Walmart.com

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

I was looking for a solution to carry a few rods at times. Now, I'm not a huge fisherman or anything, but it is nice to be able to carry some rods without having them lying around the floor, especially when there are hooks and kids mixed. lol I considered various options, but in the end, kept it very simple. In case others are looking for something like this.

On the starboard/right side of the boat, the gunwale runs from the engine bay all the way up to the driver console area continuously. There are a few cables and wires in there. So I opened up the shifter/throttle plate and with one hand, zip tied various cables together. Wasn't easy and now my arm looks like I went and fought with my cat and lost (fiberglass scrapes), but the end results was a very clean internal gunwale. I noticed when I did all of this, by bucket no longer latched, so had to make a small adjustment there. Then I zip tied wires properly at the stern.

Then I got some velcro ties and tethered them to one of the zip tie screws.

I got a nylon bag I had lying around with a draw string, so I stick the rod in there, pull the draw string snug and then I can angle it in. The rod naturally follows the gunwale wall, the bag protects it and prevents any hooks from getting caught on wires in there. Then I hand the rod handle on the velcro. It's actually not that awkward to do. I wouldn't store it there between short fishing hops, but when travelling or going farther, this is an excellent solution on the 165.

EDIT: Note that the port/left side has the fuel hose, so it's not really an option on that side.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Here is the bilge pump hack. If this type of pump won't automatically shut off for you, it's simply because the angle of the pump isn't right. The sensor portion (rectangular prism side) has to be higher while the intake grate side has to be lower. When it's glued into your hull, it sometimes ends up very close to level. This means that it keeps sensing water and can't suck it up. So it keeps going, draining your battery. The new model of this pump now comes with a plastic "wedge" that does this. If you have the older version like I do, here's my hack. Get some silicone tape (hardware store, it looks like electrical tape but it's silicone, one brand is called Magic Wrap. It adheres to itself, even in water.) and wrap this spot many times until it's pretty thick. Then get a clamp and install it as such. Make sure that when it goes back in, the clamp bolt ends up at the right spot below lifting that end of the pump (and thus lowering the other end of course). Don't go too high, you could unglue the pump if you put too much tension.

I tried electrical tape the first time, it didn't work. The heat of the engine made the tape come off. Silicone tape works perfectly.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

I added 3 boat buckles. The typical buckles at the stern, both sides but I also added one at the bow which keeps the boat down. This is nice to have when you travel on rough roads like I do.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

The trailer cover comes with the two poles and straps. I got sick of the 4 outer straps that kept getting tangled and having to explain to my wife (when she helped) how tight to adjust each one. So I removed those and replaced them with heavy duty bungees. Took some time to figure out the lengths/loop sizes. But now, no tangles, or very few and no adjustments. Always perfect.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

The older 165 models have a shield on the driver console. Mine was starting to rattle because some of the adhesive was coming off. I remove it (there are a few nuts underneath), cleaned everything off, then used 3M waterproof stickers along with some door weather strippig to re-attach it. Worked perfectly and no more rattling.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

This one was a little scary.... got sick of the water accumulating in the two corners by the seats. The drain holes are a little too high to get the residual water. I drilled a little hole on both sides. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL INTO THE FUEL TANK! IT IS RIGHT THERE! I angled my holes as to NOT hit the fuel tank.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

My fire extinguisher location. I added a second velcro strap to secure it further, but it's still instant to remove. Good use of space assuming you don't have a giant anchor.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

This one was hilarious and not fun. I often store the trailer in a forest at the cottage. Sadly, one day I discovered a short in my lights. Kept burning the fuse. I decided to pull the wires out and check them and as I did WITHOUT LOOKING, I FELT SOMETHING FUZZY AND SQUISHY! WTF!?!? Yeah, that actually happened. A mouse had gone into the trailer and chewed my wires all over. It then presumably tried to escape when I backed into the lake at the ramp and got stuck. Drowned, hanging upside down. Yeah.....

After replacing my entire wiring system, I decided to install custom cut galvanized mesh at each and every hole. Use self tapping screws (but pre-drilled the holes since the steel is pretty thick). Mouse "proof" trailer. The only parts they can chew are accessible and can be inspected easily.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

I leave my boat in the water at the cottage for sometimes multiple weeks with nobody around. I purchased a cheap, solar trickle charger. I glued some velcro to the back and attached it to the wake tower velcro slots (I have no tower). I have a connection to the battery on the inside with a 2 pin connector. Quick and easy and keeps my battery topped up when I leave.