• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter
  • JetBoaters.Net 2nd Annual SeaDoo Switch Group Buy Sponsored By JetBoatPilot Is Live Now. Save 25% Off Select SeaDoo Switch Gear through October 31st.

    Click Here to go to the Jetboatpilot Seadoo Group buy

    You can delete this notice with the "X" in the upper right>>>

[Solved] 2021 Scarab 165 w/ check engine light

Djstylamix

Member
Messages
12
Reaction score
5
Points
12
Boat Make
Scarab
Year
2021
Boat Model
165 ID
Boat Length
16
Hello all,

I recently acquired a newish 165 300hp Rotax with 14 hours. The boat now has 25 hours on it. The check engine light first appeared about 3 engine hours ago after experiencing real bad cavitation. Whatever got sucked in the impeller cleared within a minute or two. I pulled out the pump assembly to verify nothing was left and no damage done to the impeller or wear ring. Low end power now seems normal with no cavitation. Thinking the light would eventually clear itself I used it a few more hours. I noticed that with the light on it may be in a limp mode. Above 40mph the power dies off and dont seem willing to work above 5k RPM’s. It feels electronic as it steps down from 8k to 7k then 6k and resting happily at 5k. Thinking it might be a spark plug Issue I replaced them all and removed the battery for a few hours. That cleared the check engine light. Took it to the lake for testing and the light came back on at the dock after about 2 minutes of idle. Took it out to open it up and it’s still doing the same thing. Lower end power band all seems fine all the way up to 8k. After speeds of about 40 mph power she just dies off and the RPM’s drop to 5K. I have no fault code option in the menu and pressing select a bunch of times does nothing. What am I missing? Do you really needs Buds or Candoo to reset the ECU and pull an error code? Is what I’m describing limp mode? Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Assuming it's an active fault code (which certainly sounds like it), you should be able to see the code while it's active. I'm including the menu option diagram. There should be a fault code section while the light is on. It isn't there if it's no longer active. I've had that situation. But considering you're experiencing actual problems, it's most likely active.

Beyond that, candoo or buds is needed to reset codes (but yes, it can pull them too for sure). Some codes will reset themselves such as misfires on cylinders. Replace a spark plug, and the code will go away after a certain number of engine runs/hours. So in that case, you wouldn't need the software.

Now for your problem... I don't think it has anything to do with cavitation. I suspect it's a red herring. It really does sound like a plug problem, and considering you replaced it and the problem initially went away, implies you're going in the right direction. Have you considered the plug coils? Are they clean, no rust/oxidation? Good spark plug contact? Fuel is good? No water in it?

Maybe others will chime in with other ideas.

1664758308675.png
 
The cavitation and low end power loss cleared on its own after a few minutes. Afterward I’m left with the check engine light and no top end power. That hasn’t changed even after changing the plugs. I’m thinking it’s in limp mode with the check engine light on but no clue what limp mode is supposed to be. I’m new to this jet boat scene. I just started it up and went through all the display menu’s and don’t see a fault menu. The fuel is full, new and fresh. Could be a coil pack I guess but it feels so solid on the low end, 8k RPM’s and takes off like a rocket until 40mph so I doubt it. I first got the light within seconds of the blockage clearing. It has to be related. The top end power loss happens the same way every time like it’s computer controlled.
 
Probably not related, but your coolant level is good? In case it somehow starts overheating at higher speed/RPM.

Otherwise, I'm not sure... not without knowing what the code is. Dealer nearby? Always hard to help remotely. Software will tell us for sure what the code is.
 
Dealer is an hour or so away. Coolant and temps are all good. I think I’m going to have to bite the bullet and buy the buds. I’m in Tampa Florida so if anyone local is willing to scan it for me please reply.
 
Thank you Luc, when I posted I figured you would be the first to reply. Really do appreciate it.
 
Just ordered the Candoo Pro. I figured that I’m going to need it soon anyway just to do regular maintenance. I have an old laptop but it doesn’t seem to meet their minimum system requirements. They want a 2 Gig processor with 2gig of RAM. Seems like a like a lot just for simple diag program. My laptop has a 1.6 with 1gig ram. I guess if it don’t work I can drag the gaming PC out to the garage. If it’s not one thing it’s another….
 
lol I suspect it'll still work just fine. 1GB of RAM? How old is this thing? haha
 
It’s just a little netbook I bought for tuning cars about 10 years ago so it’s ancient in tech time. Only booted it up a hand full of times.
 
Update: the CandooPro came in super fast. Pretty much next day. I was amazed. The ECU threw codes P0325 “knock sensor” & B220 “GPS”. Pretty much what I expected. The turbulence from the pump blockage was picked up by the knock sensor and tripped the check engine light. I suspect I was in limp mode with the light on. No way to tell until I can dump her in the water again but it all makes sense. Not sure what’s up with the GPS code. Didn’t know the boat had GPS or what it’s for. I’ll update again after this weekend. Thanks for the help Luc!
 
Hooray! It's a worthy tool to have being an owner of this boat.

GPS is how your speedometer works. It's built into the gauge cluster. If you were inside a garage, it can't get line of sight to satellites so it throws a GPS error. Was it obstructed by something like that? Or a jacket draped over it? Other?
 
Yeah, stored in the garage so makes sense. Planning on taker her out this weekend for a test rip. I’ll keep you posted but I’m sure it’s fine.
 
Update: We went out yesterday. I let it idle and warm up at the dock. No check engine light so we took off. There is a long no wake through the river to the outlet. I opened it up asap and unfortunately the problem persists. 40mph @ 8k then steps down to 5-6k. Still no check engine light so we went about our day hoping the issue would resolve itself. It did not. I ran it another 2 engine hours. I have good low end power up to 40mph the the RPM’s start stepping down from 8k to 5-6k before being happy. Never did throw a check engine light this time. Got home and threw it back on the Candoo. It threw the P0325 knock sensor fault 1 again. I pulled the jet pump again to inspect and don’t see any issues. I also pulled the newly installed plugs out and they looked fine as well. Before this issue showed up I did top off the tank with 5 gallons of 89 octane marina gas. The rest of the tank had fresh 93 pump gas. Since then I’ve went through more than 20 gallons so It’s doubtful that any of that 89 octane is still in there. I can’t think of any other reason the knock sensor would be tripping. I haven’t searched the forums yet but I guess that’s what I’m needing help with, a reoccurring knock sensor fault.
 

Attachments

  • 69D89BF8-07BE-4778-9A03-C20F9531477F.jpeg
    69D89BF8-07BE-4778-9A03-C20F9531477F.jpeg
    333.5 KB · Views: 16
  • 4D5E65B5-8CB3-4A1F-86C5-C37C0CBC3063.jpeg
    4D5E65B5-8CB3-4A1F-86C5-C37C0CBC3063.jpeg
    406.5 KB · Views: 16
  • 37406124-A386-4CDC-8033-75C2F1280551.jpeg
    37406124-A386-4CDC-8033-75C2F1280551.jpeg
    340.9 KB · Views: 13
  • 2BF6501D-A59B-4C24-ADF6-965AECED5DDE.jpeg
    2BF6501D-A59B-4C24-ADF6-965AECED5DDE.jpeg
    391.8 KB · Views: 16
  • E614F4C1-5B8D-4F03-9686-4F7B8033A25F.jpeg
    E614F4C1-5B8D-4F03-9686-4F7B8033A25F.jpeg
    637.5 KB · Views: 23
Located the knock sensor plug. Sensor measures 4.88 Mohms
 
Ordered a new knock sensor. The new one measured exactly the same as the existing one. I replaced it anyway. I can happily report that all issues have now been resolved.

it’s worth it to note that even though your sensor may be testing with good resistance it can still be bad. Mine measured at 4.86 Mohms at 85 degrees yet it was still bad. Also be aware that excessive engine vibration caused by cavitation from a blocked impeller can ruin the knock sensor.
 
If that was the cause, in that case your light will go away after a number of engine runs/hours on its own.

There are at least 3 165 owners in Ottawa including myself. We do have the software, but we are completely maxed out with 6 people on that system and it's shared across the province. So if you do really want it, I'd recommend starting a second group sadly. It's just getting to be a little extreme on the number of people.

New owner I assume? Which part of town?
 
thanks for the advice i will wait for the check engine to disappear and later i will see the possibility of buying the software. yes I just bought my scarab
165 a month ago but I own a
2003 seadoo sportster 4tech for some years. (It's for sales now) Engine is similar but it dont have catalyst.
i was born in gatineau and now i live in buckingham.

Icône de traduction vérifiée par la communauté



Commentaires
Résultats Web
Google Traduction
 
Ah Buckingham! Je suis francophone en passant. :)

Boating on the Ottawa I'm assuming? I did my undergraduate thesis on the mineralogy of the Wallingford-Back mine close to Buckingham. Nice area!
 
Back
Top