Starboard motor wont start!!

[Steve B71]

Regardless, right now job 1 is getting that old, contaminated oil out and new oil in both engines.

Then I would pull the plugs on the one that won't start and crank it to make sure there is no water in there.

Then run on hose and see if milkiness reappears. If it is just a little, rechange oil. If it is a lot and a lot more oil there (e.g. lots of water came in from the hose), let us know and we need to regroup on diagnosing a crack in your head or block... (bad). Once you get that oil back to not getting milky any more, you need to run that boat hard to drive off the rest of the water--get it nice and hot.

Will do. Thanks.

Regardless, right now job 1 is getting that old, contaminated oil out and new oil in both engines.

Then I would pull the plugs on the one that won't start and crank it to make sure there is no water in there.

Then run on hose and see if milkiness reappears. If it is just a little, rechange oil. If it is a lot and a lot more oil there (e.g. lots of water came in from the hose), let us know and we need to regroup on diagnosing a crack in your head or block... (bad). Once you get that oil back to not getting milky any more, you need to run that boat hard to drive off the rest of the water--get it nice and hot.

Will do thx... when adding oil to engine to get the milkiness out. Do i add oil and then immediately remove oil or do I let it sit in there awhile before tak ikmg oil back out .. also... do i remove filter each time as wellnor leave it alkne till oil is good???

 

[Dave burke]

Will do. Thanks.

Will do thx... when adding oil to engine to get the milkiness out. Do i add oil and then immediately remove oil or do I let it sit in there awhile before tak ikmg oil back out .. also... do i remove filter each time as wellnor leave it alkne till oil is good???

Change the oil and then run on the hose. Change the filter too ideally.

After you run on the hose say 5-10 mins, check the oil and change it again if milky. Keep using cheap oil until it’s clear.

If I were you, I’d focus on the one that won’t start once you’ve changed the oil. As several of us have said, pull the plugs and crank to see if any water comes out. Keep doing this until no more water and then clean the plugs and try to start.

 

[Bruce]

Once you have those engines running again on clean oil it is important to always have the bilge pump on when the boat is in the water. If enough water is leaking in to risk running down your battery then you need to find and fix the leak(s).

 

[Steve B71]

Change the oil and then run on the hose. Change the filter too ideally.

After you run on the hose say 5-10 mins, check the oil and change it again if milky. Keep using cheap oil until it’s clear.

If I were you, I’d focus on the one that won’t start once you’ve changed the oil. As several of us have said, pull the plugs and crank to see if any water comes out. Keep doing this until no more water and then clean the plugs and try to start.

Thx dave I appreciate all the advice.

 

[Dave burke]

Good luck. Let us know how it goes

 

[Steve B71]

Good luck. Let us know how it goes

Most definitely. Thank u

 

[Bruce]

Another possibility that we have not explored is that an injector could be stuck open filling the engine with gasoline. If this were the case it could be related to a failed ECU.

Please verify that the oil does not smell like gasoline.

Your air filters may have oil on them. For testing it may be best to run the engines without them.

I would make getting impurities out of the oil a priority.

 

[Steve B71]

Another possibility that we have not explored is that an injector could be stuck open filling the engine with gasoline. If this were the case it could be related to a failed ECU.

Please verify that the oil does not smell like gasoline.

Your air filters may have oil on them. For testing it may be best to run the engines without them.

I would make getting impurities out of the oil a priority.

Will check that out as well Bruce. Thx for all the help. Very much appreciated!!

 

[Steve B71]

Will check that out as well Bruce. Thx for all the help. Very much appreciated!!

 

[Steve B71]

Just curious how likely is it that the motor Hydro locked?? And if so is that reversible or am I a screwed goose???

 

[Bruce]

Just curious how likely is it that the motor Hydro locked?? And if so is that reversible or am I a screwed goose???

Did water come out of the cylinders when you removed the spark plugs, removed the lanyard and cranked the engine?

If water came out of the cylinders then it is more likely that hydrolock occurred.

Do you see any cracks in the block? Irreversible damage would be a cracked block, bent rods or water causing corrosion inside the engine.

 

[tdonoughue]

When changing the oil, remove all of the old oil, filter too if possible (if you have access to a new one), then put on new filter and fill with new (cheap) oil.

I absolutely agree with what all the folks said above. Understand that milky oil has water in it--that water is eating at your engine each moment it is in the engine. That is why getting that out of there is the priority. Do that first. Then (while you are doing that) check for gas smell in the old oil. Then pull the plugs on the non-running engine and crank. Hopefully you don't smell gas, water either comes out or doesn't, and you can change the oil in the other engine, too. Then get them running. All the milkiness will not go away on the first change, but it should get better. After 5-10 min running on the hose, you should be ready to change again. You are trying to get to the point where there is no milkiness and 2 running engines so you can take it up and run it WOT to evaporate off the rest of the water in the engine.

 

[Steve B71]

Did water come out of the cylinders when you removed the spark plugs, removed the lanyard and cranked the engine?

If water came out of the cylinders then it is more likely that hydrolock occurred.

Do you see any cracks in the block? Irreversible damage would be a cracked block, bent rods or water causing corrosion inside the

 

[Steve B71]

Well did what u said Bruce.. there's no cracks on block as far as I can see. Changed oil and took out plugs, pulled lanyard and and water did shoot out of all 4 cylinders. Cranked till no more water was visible. Plugs were shot and somewhat rusted. Gotta replace them for sure but put the old ones back in. Took a bit but the motor started up... also the air filter was wet. Need to go and buy Plugs and both filters. I'll run it longer tomorrow when I have everything new in it.. u think the block will b fine or is there some chance of damage???

 

[Dave burke]

Good news that it started up after you got the water out and changed the oil. How long did you run it for? I’d run about 10 mins if you could. Then check the oil again and change it right away if it’s still milky

Hard to know how much internal damage that you might have but the fact that you got it started is very good. And sooner that you can get the oil clear and get it out for a good run, the better

 

[tdonoughue]

Ok, then that is good that you pulled them. That rust is no good. Sure, you will need new plugs, but more concern is that is what the inside of the cylinder is looking like. Need to get those engines running ASAP and get them up to temp to drive that water off. If it starts with those old plugs, I would just leave in the old plugs for now. A new air filter would be nice, but really you can run without one if needed.

You may not be able to see a crack in the block (and you won't be able to see bent valves, etc.). If you were able to get it to start, that is a good sign.

Change the oil on both and get them running on the hose. Change the oil again until you have almost no/no milk. Then take it out and run it like you stole it. 20-30 min or so. Recheck the oil and see if milk reappears. Also see if either engine runs slower than the other, etc.

 

[Steve B71]

Ok, then that is good that you pulled them. That rust is no good. Sure, you will need new plugs, but more concern is that is what the inside of the cylinder is looking like. Need to get those engines running ASAP and get them up to temp to drive that water off. If it starts with those old plugs, I would just leave in the old plugs for now. A new air filter would be nice, but really you can run without one if needed.

You may not be able to see a crack in the block (and you won't be able to see bent valves, etc.). If you were able to get it to start, that is a good sign.

Change the oil on both and get them running on the hose. Change the oil again until you have almost no/no milk. Then take it out and run it like you stole it. 20-30 min or so. Recheck the oil and see if milk reappears. Also see if either engine runs slower than the other, etc.

 

[Steve B71]

Will do TD.. ALL U GUYS ROCK!!!!!, I can't thank u all enough for taking the time out to help me and guide me in the right direction. U guys are life savers!!. THX Again!!!!!

 

[Bruce]

Glad you got the engine started. Just keep changing the oil until it is clean. Than after the oil is clean spend a long day running on the lake to make sure that any remaining water has burned off.

How did the water get in to begin with?

 

[Geoff Cooper]

I've just come into this but hope this may shed some light on the problem, Firstly get down to basics was the water in the engine compartment hot or cold.
If Hot water
If hot it's coming from the engine if cold it's coming from outside, I've had customers boats in the past with this problem and have found 2 reasons for the trouble,
1 The rubber gaiter that joins the exhaust to the outlet pipe has split, Follow the exhaust from the engine to just before it goes through the bulkhead there's a rubber gaiter that sits where the water jets join the exhaust gases if that splits pressurised water will fill the engine compartment, It's a cheap fix and a DIY

2 The outlet pipe that exits on top of the exhaust pipe near the rubber gaiter and leaves the boat at the transom just above the jet pump, I've had these split inside and hot water from the engine has nowhere to go and fills the engine compartment, You need to get into the back to find this one but again an easy fix another DIY

If Cold water
Apart from the usual transom plugs and leaks i would check the pipe leading from the cold water input going through the rear compartment from the jet pump and joining the input pipe at they Y junction to the rear lower starboard side of the engine i have had a few problems with customers boats with that problem especially if they have fitted valves inline to shut of the water flow if one engine has a problem, I've found that if the valves are slightly small they restrict the amount of water needed by the engine and so gases are not cooled sufficiently and consequently the rubber gaiter get excessive heat and leaks occur.

Both of these problems will cause the ECU to restrict output and will shut the said engine down completely

Hope that helps good luck
Don't forget An ounce of thought to a pound of thrust Don't panic study the job before you go steaming in