Subwoofer Placement

[Drift Away]

I'm a grownup because I want to feel my music before I hear it.

I think what you ment to say is you want to replace your gel coat.

 

[blackcamaro23]

^^^^^ this is exactly what I did. Except I just ran the RCA straight across the front of the ski locker. No need to route it around the front of the boat. This sub rocks and between it and the Kenwood amp, didn’t break the bank. View attachment 164447View attachment 164448View attachment 164449

Looks Good! What size sub is that and model and what is the amp model you did?

 

[oramac]

Thank for the info. Did you build a custom box? or found one online?

Rockville RTB12A 12" 600w Powered Subwoofer Bass Tube + Bass Remote

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[Jerlane]

Here's the amp and sub I used:

KAC-M3001 Compact Mono Digital Amplifier | Marine | Car Entertainment | KENWOOD Canada

KAC-M3001 Compact Mono Digital Amplifier

www.kenwood.com

JL Audio MX10IB3-CG-WH: 10-inch (250 mm) Marine Subwoofer Driver White Classic Grilles 4 Ω

JL Audio MX10IB3-CG-WH: 10-inch (250 mm) Marine Subwoofer Driver White Classic Grilles 4 ΩMX-Series 10-inch Marine Subwoofer Driver for Infinite-Baffle Use (...

creativeaudio.net

 

[2kwik4u]

Here's the amp and sub I used:

KAC-M3001 Compact Mono Digital Amplifier | Marine | Car Entertainment | KENWOOD Canada

KAC-M3001 Compact Mono Digital Amplifier

www.kenwood.com

JL Audio MX10IB3-CG-WH: 10-inch (250 mm) Marine Subwoofer Driver White Classic Grilles 4 Ω

JL Audio MX10IB3-CG-WH: 10-inch (250 mm) Marine Subwoofer Driver White Classic Grilles 4 ΩMX-Series 10-inch Marine Subwoofer Driver for Infinite-Baffle Use (...

creativeaudio.net

Thanks for posting those. Always good to know what other have used with success.

 

[212s]

Just a heads up on wattage ratings of amps - a lot of the lower priced models exaggerate their output ratings at high distortion and 1kHz freqs to make them appear powerful when in actual use pumping music, they're not. As a rough guide with digital amps, you can use conversion ratings of 1amp per 10 watts of power into 2ohm loads, so a 20a fuse is needed for 200w max at 2ohms.

For instance, a 600w mono amp with a 20a fuse is not possible - with only a 20a fuse this is really max 200w which is 1/3 of the claimed power output at 2ohms which means only 100w or so at 4ohms. Not a lot of oomph for a sub capable of 175-200w. Other factors such as damping and peak-to-peak voltage response affects how well an amp can control and pump a woofer or subwoofer. And how well an amp can handle that power output with discrete power stages, stable voltage control, and proper heat sinking, is part of the price you pay.

As another example, a 500w stereo amp with a 50a fuse is properly rated at 2ohms and you can expect to get up to 500w out of it. That's also why a head unit that claims 200w total output can really only pump 5w of clean power using a 10a fuse, and why adding a real 200w amp will get your speakers pumping hard when the head unit can't.

You get what you pay for...while it will work when you use cheaper amps, don't expect max performance when you cut corners and costs to save some money. Good audio is not cheap. It doesn't have to be super expensive as the performance curve plateaus as prices increase, but you need to realistic about costs vs performance.

 

[kgower]

I put a 10" Wet Sounds sub in the port helm. It does interfere with the ski lock somewhat because of the grill. Will probably see if I can find a different grill.

 

[SunnyD]

Still in rough draft phase so please forgive the ugliness. I'll make it pretty later.

I built two sealed boxes for my 30 year old kicker subs from car in high school.

The first couple pics are of sub #1 under and behind the starboard bow seating. The end product will have both subs firing down in sealed boxes witch kind of gives a bandpass effect.

The last pic is my failed first attempt to the subwoofer #2 behind the battery. I ended up trimming the box another few inches. Fits good now.

I unfortunately don't have pics for how it sounds so you'll have to take my word for it that it sounds very nice!

Bonus, I now have two new massage chairs in the bow and stern seating!

I complimentted these with 6 JL Audio M3s.

BTW, I just split the existing htx 6 sub inputs to also go to a second amp. The amp is also a 30 year old car audio amp. (Hifonics vulcan)

Sound is great, but predictably it's not very efficient and kills my battery very quickly so that will be replaced with a wetsounds htx2 next weekend.

 

[SunnyD]

I finished up the above project. Ended up not being able to use my 30 year old amp. It was very power hungry and ran hot. Replaced with an Htx2 ran 2 gauge wire, since the stock 4 guage isn't sufficient for 18 feet and 1200 watts and 70 amps total. Made it all pretty and very happy with the results.
Both subs are sealed and fire down with about two inches of clearance. This allows air and water (if need be) to flow nicely.
Front 12 inch sub is right under the amp rack and front starboard seat. Still plenty 9f room to put the boat cover in there.

Rear 12 inch in behind the batteries. I built railing and so the enclosure slides right in. Ended up screwing the left railing to the wall and removing the front cross support to allow more air flow.

Here's the end result without the front cross support removed.

Added a second house battery and project is done!

 

[adrianp89]

Just a heads up on wattage ratings of amps - a lot of the lower priced models exaggerate their output ratings at high distortion and 1kHz freqs to make them appear powerful when in actual use pumping music, they're not. As a rough guide with digital amps, you can use conversion ratings of 1amp per 10 watts of power into 2ohm loads, so a 20a fuse is needed for 200w max at 2ohms.

For instance, a 600w mono amp with a 20a fuse is not possible - with only a 20a fuse this is really max 200w which is 1/3 of the claimed power output at 2ohms which means only 100w or so at 4ohms. Not a lot of oomph for a sub capable of 175-200w. Other factors such as damping and peak-to-peak voltage response affects how well an amp can control and pump a woofer or subwoofer. And how well an amp can handle that power output with discrete power stages, stable voltage control, and proper heat sinking, is part of the price you pay.

As another example, a 500w stereo amp with a 50a fuse is properly rated at 2ohms and you can expect to get up to 500w out of it. That's also why a head unit that claims 200w total output can really only pump 5w of clean power using a 10a fuse, and why adding a real 200w amp will get your speakers pumping hard when the head unit can't.

You get what you pay for...while it will work when you use cheaper amps, don't expect max performance when you cut corners and costs to save some money. Good audio is not cheap. It doesn't have to be super expensive as the performance curve plateaus as prices increase, but you need to realistic about costs vs performance.

Good info.

Voltage plays a big part in this too, 12 vs 14.4. More importantly is efficiency. Class A/B will be ~60% effecient (Class D ~ 80%+ so if you are using ohms law to determine max output, take this into consideration as well.

 

[mattscheuerlein]

I have the same boat and installed a 10" JL IB sub in the side wall next to the captain's seat and it fits nicely there and sounds great. No loss of storage space either.

Do you have any pictures? I'm about to install a jl 10 right behind my captain chair in side wall. It's a 23 195s which should be pretty much the same hull as the 190. And did you use any support behind it, like ring or board? Any info is much appreciated. Thanks