TheGriz
Jet Boat Addict
- Messages
- 19
- Reaction score
- 37
- Points
- 92
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2007
- Boat Model
- SX
- Boat Length
- 23
Hi all,
I'm finding tons of great info on this site. Thanks!!
I just purchased a 2007 SX230 HO. Been doing basic work on it (steering cables, reverse gate cables, scupper valve, etc). I am about to tow from NC up to my cabin in Northern Michigan, where I am debating about mooring for 2 weeks. I'd probably prefer to keep the boat out of the water, but the added cost of taking my boat/trailer on the ferry to my cabin is a big expense.
When taking the boat out for the day, I have 45-60 seconds worth of water to drain. I'm chasing down the source of this water, assuming it is associated with the cleanout plugs, since the previous owner caulked them in solid (sheesh) rather than rebuilding them.
The bilge pump is located in the rear of the engine compartment. It seems that multiple inches of water in the true bilge area must accumulate before this pump will kick in.
I hear the bilge pump kick on and off when I toggle the switch. I've read accounts that the pump is automatic regardless of switch position, however, filled the bilge up with about 3ogal of water switch off and didn't get any pumping. I do get pumping when the switch is on. Is there any trick to this? LIke the battery switch must be in position "X"?
Some other bilge/mooring questions:
1. Looking for thoughts on installing a second float activated bilge pump in the actual transom bilge area and wire it (switched) directly to the battery vs leaving the engine compartment bilge switch on while mooring.
2. Since the bilge pumps will only kick on when it needs to pump, I assume this is a very limited draw on power. Should I consider adding a temporary mooring battery (like a motorcycle 12v) for leaving the boat for a few days without running engines if necessary?
I'm finding tons of great info on this site. Thanks!!
I just purchased a 2007 SX230 HO. Been doing basic work on it (steering cables, reverse gate cables, scupper valve, etc). I am about to tow from NC up to my cabin in Northern Michigan, where I am debating about mooring for 2 weeks. I'd probably prefer to keep the boat out of the water, but the added cost of taking my boat/trailer on the ferry to my cabin is a big expense.
When taking the boat out for the day, I have 45-60 seconds worth of water to drain. I'm chasing down the source of this water, assuming it is associated with the cleanout plugs, since the previous owner caulked them in solid (sheesh) rather than rebuilding them.
The bilge pump is located in the rear of the engine compartment. It seems that multiple inches of water in the true bilge area must accumulate before this pump will kick in.
I hear the bilge pump kick on and off when I toggle the switch. I've read accounts that the pump is automatic regardless of switch position, however, filled the bilge up with about 3ogal of water switch off and didn't get any pumping. I do get pumping when the switch is on. Is there any trick to this? LIke the battery switch must be in position "X"?
Some other bilge/mooring questions:
1. Looking for thoughts on installing a second float activated bilge pump in the actual transom bilge area and wire it (switched) directly to the battery vs leaving the engine compartment bilge switch on while mooring.
2. Since the bilge pumps will only kick on when it needs to pump, I assume this is a very limited draw on power. Should I consider adding a temporary mooring battery (like a motorcycle 12v) for leaving the boat for a few days without running engines if necessary?