SX230 not started in 3 years ... Suggestions?

[Phayl]

Hi all,

Recently inherited a beautiful sub 50hrs 2009-2012 Yamaha SX230 that hasn't been started or cleaned in three years. Has been sitting in covered dry storage, in TX heat/winters, and am not sure if it had been winterized or set for long term storage before it was put to rest.

Looking at getting the boat back into business, aside from dirt & the crawlers which have moved in, I'm mostly concerned about how to get it started and what needs to be done to prevent damage. New gas is definitely in order, and I'm worried about rubber seals/gaskets being dry rotted despite the boat being in shade 24/7.

I have experience working with cars and would like to do the work myself, but am a complete newbie when it comes to boats. Would anyone be able to provide a guide/help/suggestions of steps to take before getting the engines started and the boat back in the water?

Cheers,
Phil

 

[tdonoughue]

Phil,

Welcome! Good to have you here.

First suggestion is update your profile with your location. Lots of folks may be nearby to help, too. Some of us are even in Texas...

Second, check the batteries. These are most likely to be dead, maybe beyond charging.

The good news is that likely you will not have too much or any dry rot or seal issues. Simply don't have much of that on your age boat, regardless of use.

Third, check the cleanout plugs. Often the rubber on these will swell and cause issues with removal. If you can get them out, go to the pool store, get some seal lubricant and apply it to the circumference of the plugs to avoid issues. Always store with the plugs out.

Fourth, change the plugs. Magic cure-all for our boats.

You already mentioned the fuel....

Then try to fire that puppy up. A good run can do wonders, as well.

Oh, and we like pics around here. If you got something funky, especially, snap a pic and let us see what we can recommend.

Welcome again!

 

[Phayl]

Phil,

Welcome! Good to have you here.

First suggestion is update your profile with your location. Lots of folks may be nearby to help, too. Some of us are even in Texas...

Thanks a bunch for the quick response, and howdy! The boat definitely needs new battery(ies), and plugs will be replaced as well - running high strung tuned cars I'm used to replacing these every 5k miles ?and they always seem to solve everything!

Not sure if the cleanouts are open or not, will definitely see after cleaning out the boat (have seen a quick video to learn about these). Is this lubricant the same that goes around the pool filter ring? Have some of that from the local store I believe.

Does the boat need new impellers typically with such low usage? Replacements I see are metal rather than rubber.
Should I oil the cylinders, run it in the water/on land?

Thanks again,
Phil

 

[Neutron]

Before you crank spray a little foging oil or similar into each plug hole.

Pull dipstick to make sure it isnt milky.

I wouldn't be surprised if the impeller housings swelled up from corrosion. When the plugs out try turning the shafts after you fog it.
If swollen it will act like a seized motor

 

[Matt Phillips]

Put some stability in the fuel. It may run a little tougher while you get that old fuel out of it. If you can run it down about 1/2 tank, then fill it. With fresh gas.

You’d be surprised butnit will likely crank right up.

 

[Scottintexas]

Where in dallas are you? What lake will you use? I'd be glad to take a quick look at it for you if your close by

 

[tdonoughue]

Yes, the pool filter ring silicone lubricant is the same stuff. I use it about 4x a season on my plugs and never have an issue.

All the Yamahas have metal impellers. Never heard of a rubber one... Now, the ring around it may be plastic or metal, but the impellers are always metal. Many good comments above. What they said.

 

[Phayl]

Before you crank spray a little foging oil or similar into each plug hole.

Pull dipstick to make sure it isnt milky.

I wouldn't be surprised if the impeller housings swelled up from corrosion. When the plugs out try turning the shafts after you fog it.
If swollen it will act like a seized motor

Thanks!

Just to clarify, fogging oil into the spark plug or the cleanout plug holes?
Has been out of water for three years so should hopefully be dry as can be!

 

[Phayl]

Put some stability in the fuel. It may run a little tougher while you get that old fuel out of it. If you can run it down about 1/2 tank, then fill it. With fresh gas.

You’d be surprised butnit will likely crank right up.

Noted! Haven't gotten the fuel level yet, but if it's low I will still add it and run it down a bit, or should I just dilute it with fresh gas? Would you suggest running it dry or run it in the water.

Thanks again!

 

[Phayl]

Where in dallas are you? What lake will you use? I'd be glad to take a quick look at it for you if your close by

Based in Plano/Frisco, have it stored at the dirty Lew(isville)! Trailer is currently flat on three tires, and one is popped. Looking for a spare tire now, the rest haven't dry rotted, probably just flat spotted slightly but should be okay to bring into the water if need be. Would not feel comfortable putting the trailer on open public road.

 

[tdonoughue]

Just to clarify, fogging oil into the spark plug or the cleanout plug holes?

Into the spark plug hole, after you pull the spark plug.

Noted! Haven't gotten the fuel level yet, but if it's low I will still add it and run it down a bit, or should I just dilute it with fresh gas? Would you suggest running it dry or run it in the water.

After that much time, I would dilute. You probably will not get it to run nice on the crap that is in there. Dilute it in and run it down all the way. Then refill.

 

[Phayl]

Into the spark plug hole, after you pull the spark plug.



After that much time, I would dilute. You probably will not get it to run nice on the crap that is in there. Dilute it in and run it down all the way. Then refill.

Great, will do this! Just picked up spark plugs today

Does it need to be run while in the water? I've seen videos of people pushing water through little spouts behind each seat for the engines. Wondering if I can do that.

 

[Gym]

You can use the flushing ports if you have the flush adapter for your hose.

 

[Phayl]

You can use the flushing ports if you have the flush adapter for your hose.

Great thanks, not sure how much my neighbor will appreciate the jets running at 9k RPM's, boat isn't registered for water use currently. Adapter seems to be a $5 part online!

 

[Gym]

Great thanks, not sure how much my neighbor will appreciate the jets running at 9k RPM's, boat isn't registered for water use currently. Adapter seems to be a $5 part online!

When flushing on the hose you want to keep the RPMs at the lower end of the spectrum as the hose, generally, doesn't provide the volume or pressure that the boat generates while underway.
My process is to flush using the "no wake mode". That way if the engine overheats for any reason the ECU will drop the motor down to low idle. I will hear this immediately and shut the water off, then the engine. If you flush at the low idle speed there will be no change if an overheat occurs possibly leading to engine damage.

 

[Phayl]

Haven't had the chance to take it out of storage yet - have organized all of the sparks/oils and cleaning products as well as tire situation.

Will keep you guys updated, and thank you for the shared knowledge!

 

[Cambo]

While the spark plugs are out after fogging oil is sprayed try to turn the impellers with the plugs out it will have no compression and should spin this will also work the fogging oil in as well .

 

[2kwik4u]

A few other thoughts/ideas/tips. Dunno how familiar you are with these boats.

When running on the hose it is this order, and this order ONLY. Engine on and running, then hose on. Once ready to shut down. Hose off, then engine off. DO NOT turn on the hose without the engine running, possible damage (hydrolocking) can occur.

Instead of fogging, might not be a bad idea to pull the spark plugs, and drop a teaspoon of Marvels Mystery Oil down the plug hole, then turn the engine over a few times. I've found MMO to ressurect all kinds of stuck rings/seals/etc. Save a 1980 RX7 from the junkyard once, guy let me have it for $100 if I could start it. Had been sitting for over a decade when I got to it. Put MMO in the first day, cranked it around, came back the next day and drove it home.

Definitely check the oil before you go starting it up. This is just "stored engine 101" type stuff. Make sure it's at the right level and the right color. Shouldn't smell "fuelly", or look milky. Certainly wouldn't hurt to change it ahead of the first fire if you have time/resources to do so.

I also highly recommend running all the controls through their full range of motion before starting. Make sure all the cables are free and working properly. Lube or replace as needed. Don't want to fight a stuck throttle, or steering while on the water!

Honestly 3yrs isn't terrible in a low humidity environment. Sure it's not great, but I suspect there will be minimal problems if it was in good working order before being put away.

 

[Scottintexas]

for future reference you might also read up on the oil cooler bolt failures on your year model so you can be looking for any signs,

.

 

[Phayl]

Update:

Changed fluids, sparks, and fogged cylinders + Diluted gas and put in seafoam.

Boat ran like a CHAMP on Wednesday of last week - aside from being a bit dirty there were no issues. Cleaning plug seals are in good condition, not swollen or anything. Stored the boat with cleaning plugs out per recommendation above.

Took out the boat this past sunday, Starboard engine started fine, port engine ran rough and ended up dying. Tried to crank it a few times and it would not turn over. Took out the spark plugs to find one of them impacted! Whoops, definitely not what I was expecting!

Replaced the plug, brought it back to the water, starboard started fine (has self check beeps), port did not have self check beeps and cranked but did not turn over. Initially thought it may have been the ignition switch, but swapped them over and both are good 2 go. Engine is making a loud clank, and a whine noise. (video below)

My suspicion is that a piston may have impacted the spark due to it running lean and it may have seized. Have also read that a stuck/corroded impeller seal could do this?

Would love any suggestions/input from owners and experts!

VIDEO OF SOUND:

Thanks again to everyone who has been helpful here, hope to get a bit more use out of it this season and really would love to save the $4000 for some cold ones rather than a new engine!