• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter
  • Guest, we are pleased to announce that Hydrophase Ridesteady is offering an extra $100 off for JETBOATERS.NET members on any Ridesteady for Yamaha Speed Control system purchased through March 7th, 2025. Ridesteady is a speed control system (“cruise control”) that uses GPS satellites or engine RPM to keep your boat at the set speed you choose. On twin engine boats, it will also automatically synchronize your engines.

    Click Here for more information>Ride Steady group buy for JetBoaters.net members only

    You can dismiss this Notice by clicking the "X" in the upper right>>>>>

Thoughts about engine heat

Do you open the hood or your car or truck when you get home from driving it?
 
I run my blower 100% of the time the engines are running.
I also wonder if when some of us add the seal to the hatch we are eliminating some of the intended air circulation.

I do as well, safety is more of my concern than engine heat though.
 
Your engine displaces quite a bit of air while it runs. What, about 1000ccs every other resolution?

I'm not an engine person, can you explain this a little more, I understand the engine mixes air with the fuel to inject into the cylinder,

what is "every other resolution"
 
Sorry, i meant revolution! I need to edit that post. The auto correct is killing me.

So, engine ingests and pushes a lot of air. All the air that comes out of the exhaust came from your engine bay.

I think it's every revolution actually. There is a power stroke every other revolution, but even in the non power stroke the engine moves air by pulling it from the engine area and into the cylinders by the piston movement. Then the air gets pushed through the exhaust.

Lots of air.
 
thanks, I guess I really never thought about it like that, 1000 cc's is aprox 33 ou, that's a big gulp ever other rpm,

Thinking of it like that I would have thought you'd hear the swoosh of air trying to find it's way into the compartment
 
Last edited:
Do you open the hood or your car or truck when you get home from driving it?
Do you drive your car in 1st gear for 30 minutes to an hour? Sometimes wot for a bit too? Do that to a car and you may be opening the hood for cooling issues too!
 
I am tempted to put in an electric water pump for cooling. Too many times I end up going from power while surfing to engines stopped while the surfer comes aboard. It would be nice to put an aux cooling pump to continue the water circulation. Cam.
I dont know about this, what about the flushing rule, engine on water on, water off engine off.
 
Do you drive your car in 1st gear for 30 minutes to an hour? Sometimes wot for a bit too? Do that to a car and you may be opening the hood for cooling issues too!

If my car was circulating a constant supply of 75-85 degree water I wouldn't worry about it all, and don't think it is an issue circulating air cooled 200 degree water. As a matter of fact it can be cooled further under even harsh conditions but the thermostat keeps it a normal operating temperature.

I think worrying about heat in the boat under normal operations is irrational. Just my opinion.
 
Last edited:
I agree with @scokill above. So long as the engines are not vapor-locking when you're running them, stopping them, running them again like you would do when doing water sports, they are getting enough air and it's cool enough in the engine compartment. I'd think that the engineering minds at the manufacturer have taken this into account when designing air flow in and around the engines. Typically, when the boat is also on a plane, it's my understanding that the air inside the engine compartment is designed to be exchanged relatively continuously as the engines are pulling in air for combustion and thus creating a flow of air throughout that compartment.
 
On one hand, things made of different metals (our aluminum blocks with steel sleeves) don't like going trough rapid temperature changes due to different coefficients of thermal expansion. The engine experiences less stress with a long warm up and long (slow) cool down cycle.

On the other hand (like after a long tow with my rv), I feel like I need to leave the engine running idle with no load a few minutes to dissipate some of the heat built up in the metal. If I just shut it off and wait a few minutes then turn back on the temp gauge is way high. I suppose in reality that is just because the coolant is soaking up the heat and the engine is not getting any hotter, so that might be a false logic.

I do believe "shock cooling" an engine is not a good idea, so running a pump after shutdown would probably increase the risk of sticking valves or accelerating stress and crack propagation around any casting defects. As I am "experimenting" with my JB weld repair of a block crack on the 1052 Mr1, I try to be reasonable about steady warm-up/cool-down cycles. So far, so good.
 
Back
Top