• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter
  • ISLAND JAY has your Jetboaters.net Clothing, hats, stickers and more all at a 30% discount until June. Click Here for more information>SWAG for JetBoaters.net members only

    Help out a new business and show off your love of Jetboating!

    You can dismiss this notice by clicking the "X" in the upper right>>>>

Thoughts on Drilling Hole

Thortastic

Active Member
Messages
4
Reaction score
3
Points
42
Location
Lake Tomahawk, WI / St. Charles, IL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2019
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
19
First time doing this, so I wanted to double-check my plan with all of you. This is also my first time posting a question, but I have read a lot that other people have posted, so thank you. I have a 2019 AR195. It currently has a fish finder installed by the previous owner, and the cable for this runs through the scupper valve. The 2019's have the scupper valve a bit higher than older models, so generally it's above the water line. The best picture I have is attached. The issue is that for this season, we are going to leave the boat in the water at our cabin all summer. So it will be in the water when no one is around, much of the time. This makes me very nervous, having the scupper valve open with a cable running through it. My thought was to install a seaview cable gland somewhere near the scupper valve, but as high as practical, and route the cable through this instead. To do this, I will need to drill a larger hole and four screw holes through the fiberglass. Does this sound like a good plan? Am I crazy for worrying about this? What does everyone think?
 

Attachments

  • Photo Jun 23 2023, 3 39 25 PM.jpg
    Photo Jun 23 2023, 3 39 25 PM.jpg
    3.6 MB · Views: 5
Are you planning on drilling the new hole on the bottom side of the swim deck or kind of in the same vicinity of the scupper? Sounds like a good idea, I’d just use some 4200 or some other marine sealant (not 5200) around the cable gland and then the back side under the clean-out hatch. When drilling a hole remember to first go in reverse with the bit to get through the gel coat to prevent cracking the gel around the hole.
 
My thought was in the same vicinity as the scupper. Is the bottom of the swim deck a better location?

Good question, I hadn't thought about the different formulas. A basic search says 4200 allows for disassembly and 5200 is permanent. Is that why you recommend 4200?

Planning to follow these directions for the most part. My only question is, do you go in reverse the whole time or just at first?
 
Totally up to you where you want it, when I ran my hummingbird transducer I went though the previous depth sounder hole on the bottom side of the swim deck and then it had a cable holder that had one screw as well to keep the cable against the back of the boat. Get under the clean-out hatch before you drill so you can see what’s on the backside.

4200 will be sufficient for what you will do, especially if it will be above the water line. And in case you ever have issues with it you can still take it apart.

Drilling in reverse is just to get thru the gel coat to the fiberglass. Once at the fiberglass you can then go in forward. Obviously in that video you can certainly go in reverse all the way with a drill bit, I’ve never had an issue going reverse then forward and I’ve drilled large holes for the NOCO plugs. Obviously with the larger holes it would take forever going backwards because that’s now how the teeth are on those 1-2” hole bit attachments. The tape is also something I used as well, and if you want you can tape a shop vac hose below your intended hole and turn it on when you start drilling to suck all that stuff up.
 
Totally up to you where you want it, when I ran my hummingbird transducer I went though the previous depth sounder hole on the bottom side of the swim deck and then it had a cable holder that had one screw as well to keep the cable against the back of the boat. Get under the clean-out hatch before you drill so you can see what’s on the backside.

4200 will be sufficient for what you will do, especially if it will be above the water line. And in case you ever have issues with it you can still take it apart.

Drilling in reverse is just to get thru the gel coat to the fiberglass. Once at the fiberglass you can then go in forward. Obviously in that video you can certainly go in reverse all the way with a drill bit, I’ve never had an issue going reverse then forward and I’ve drilled large holes for the NOCO plugs. Obviously with the larger holes it would take forever going backwards because that’s now how the teeth are on those 1-2” hole bit attachments. The tape is also something I used as well, and if you want you can tape a shop vac hose below your intended hole and turn it on when you start drilling to suck all that stuff up.
Thanks!
 
Back
Top