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Thoughts/Opinions on this Audio System (Audiophiles Welcome)

Just started doing audio upgrades fusion ra770 radio 3 of 4 zones I believe and Rockford fosgate marine 4 channel amp m5 800x4 believe it will push 8 speakers I hope at 2 ohms 200x4
 
I’m in the same boat. I get needing the speakers to be marine rated with them being where wet people sit. But the amps will be put up where it’s nice and dry. Definitely opens up your options if you don’t “need” the marine rating. I won’t be out on salt water either.

Marine-rated electronics have a conformal coating on their circuit boards. This coating is important because:

1. The helm locker in your AR210, if it's anything like the previous-gen's locker, will get wet whenever you rinse off the helm. (Check the rug in there for water after you clean off the boat. Also, check the bottom seam of the sloped surface just below the dash. If you need help managing the water that enters this locker, I can give you some tips.)

2. Even if you had zero water entry, that locker will experience extreme changes in humidity and temperature. For example, say you spend the afternoon out on the water, when it's close to 100°F and 100% humidity inside the locker. As you're pulling your boat home at night, the temperature drops to 60°. All the surfaces of your boat will collect a layer of condensation, especially surfaces that don't have moving air across them. Moreover, your amps will experience a bigger temperature swing as the ambient temperature falls below the dew point. (Although Class D amps run much cooler than AB ones, D amps still run warmer than ambient temperature.) This means condensation will form on and inside your amps, which will lead to corrosion because of the many dissimilar metals that make up the circuitry. The conformal coating protects the circuitry from that condensation and subsequent corrosion. Electronics without a conformal coating won't fail immediately, but they will fail over time.

3. Any electronics that you install inside the battery locker have to further handle the corrosive gases that the battery can potentially release (as well as corrosive fumes from the engine, since the locker is not sealed from the engine compartment).

Given all the tinkering you've done with your trucks, I imagine you have a good crimping tool and you use marine-rated connectors. But if you need help in this regard, please don't hesitate to holler.
 
Marine-rated electronics have a conformal coating on their circuit boards. This coating is important because:

1. The helm locker in your AR210, if it's anything like the previous-gen's locker, will get wet whenever you rinse off the helm. (Check the rug in there for water after you clean off the boat. Also, check the bottom seam of the sloped surface just below the dash. If you need help managing the water that enters this locker, I can give you some tips.)

2. Even if you had zero water entry, that locker will experience extreme changes in humidity and temperature. For example, say you spend the afternoon out on the water, when it's close to 100°F and 100% humidity inside the locker. As you're pulling your boat home at night, the temperature drops to 60°. All the surfaces of your boat will collect a layer of condensation, especially surfaces that don't have moving air across them. Moreover, your amps will experience a bigger temperature swing as the ambient temperature falls below the dew point. (Although Class D amps run much cooler than AB ones, D amps still run warmer than ambient temperature.) This means condensation will form on and inside your amps, which will lead to corrosion because of the many dissimilar metals that make up the circuitry. The conformal coating protects the circuitry from that condensation and subsequent corrosion. Electronics without a conformal coating won't fail immediately, but they will fail over time.

3. Any electronics that you install inside the battery locker have to further handle the corrosive gases that the battery can potentially release (as well as corrosive fumes from the engine, since the locker is not sealed from the engine compartment).

Given all the tinkering you've done with your trucks, I imagine you have a good crimping tool and you use marine-rated connectors. But if you need help in this regard, please don't hesitate to holler.

While everything you said makes sense. Lots of people run regular amps with no issues for 5-10 years.
 
I use JL car audio amps all the time,

Given that they sell premium products, I wonder if JL Audio uses a conformal coating on their car amps too. I imagine they used tinned wire and corrosion-resistant connectors/fasteners across their whole product line anyway. It might be worth giving them a call.
 
While everything you said makes sense. Lots of people run regular amps with no issues for 5-10 years.

Very true. I think there are many factors that contribute to the longevity of any electronics that you add to your boat; and products made with higher quality, more corrosion-resistant materials and assemblies will outlast products made with lower quality parts.

I have several items on my current boat that are not marine-grade (USB Type C PD charger, air compressor, cabin fan, etc.), and they are chugging along just fine. But I've also seen my share of electronic items fail within a year or two due to corrosion of non-coated circuitry.

So perhaps a better answer to this quandary is:

1. A conformal coating will better ensure that the electronics will survive conditions that would otherwise lead to corrosion.

2. There are products that are not marine-rated but have been proven to handle marine conditions. Seek out these specific products if you'd like to save money on your purchase.
 
Very true. I think there are many factors that contribute to the longevity of any electronics that you add to your boat; and products made with higher quality, more corrosion-resistant materials and assemblies will outlast products made with lower quality parts.

I have several items on my current boat that are not marine-grade (USB Type C PD charger, air compressor, cabin fan, etc.), and they are chugging along just fine. But I've also seen my share of electronic items fail within a year or two due to corrosion of non-coated circuitry.

So perhaps a better answer to this quandary is:

1. A conformal coating will better ensure that the electronics will survive conditions that would otherwise lead to corrosion.

2. There are products that are not marine-rated but have been proven to handle marine conditions. Seek out these specific products if you'd like to save money on your purchase.

Is the coating something one could buy? Wouldn't be to hard to take a cover off an amp, spray with coating and put a gasket around the cover to seal it up.
 
Is the coating something one could buy? Wouldn't be to hard to take a cover off an amp, spray with coating and put a gasket around the cover to seal it up.

I use MG Chemicals silicone coating on the exposed control boards of my (DIY) RC aircraft & vehicles. I also used it on my (too expensive) personal weather station... which is supposed to be weather-proof, since it's a friggin' weather station... but all of its circuits started failing after a year or so. It's been fine ever since I sprayed the various replacement PCBs.


[Edit: The weather station manufacturer recommended MG Chemicals silicone specifically. The station isn't sealed against the elements, but it's supposedly rain/windproof. Nightly condensation forming on the circuitry is what killed it. The station is mounted above my dock, which is on a creek. It's ridiculous that the manufacturer of the station doesn't already coat their PCBs!]
 
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