Throttle Cable Adjustments on MR-1

[rtucker11]

I replaced the throttle cables on my 2008 AR-230. The port cable is seated right in the center of the holder when I tighten down the 2 locknuts on top of the engine. The starboard cable is adjusted as tight as it can be and there's still a little bit of play in the cable before bottoming out at the full throttle stop. Is there any 2nd adjustment outside of the locknuts where the cable is mounted on top of the engine? Should I maybe have purchased 2 different throttle cables instead of the same for both? I don't see why different cables would be necessary here.

I took the throttle binnacle apart to check there but I didn't see anything to be adjusted there.

Thanks for any help!

 

[BradGoins]

Following this, I just put on throttle sync from JBP and will be needing to do a fine tune on the cables.

 

[mark_m]

I replaced the throttle cables on my 2008 AR-230. The port cable is seated right in the center of the holder when I tighten down the 2 locknuts on top of the engine. The starboard cable is adjusted as tight as it can be and there's still a little bit of play in the cable before bottoming out at the full throttle stop. Is there any 2nd adjustment outside of the locknuts where the cable is mounted on top of the engine? Should I maybe have purchased 2 different throttle cables instead of the same for both? I don't see why different cables would be necessary here.

I took the throttle binnacle apart to check there but I didn't see anything to be adjusted there.

Thanks for any help!

Somewhat related question… how did you feed the new cables from the binnacle? Did you pull them thru or remove the fuel hatch? I have a pair of cables but need to install them.

 

[mark_m]

Somewhat related question… how did you feed the new cables from the binnacle? Did you pull them thru or remove the fuel hatch? I have a pair of cables but need to install them.

Disregard found the faq…. ??‍

https://jetboaters.net/threads/07-to-09-230-series-shift-cable-replacement.3833/

 

[rtucker11]

Somewhat related question… how did you feed the new cables from the binnacle? Did you pull them thru or remove the fuel hatch? I have a pair of cables but need to install them.

I removed the cover above the fuel tank, disconnected from the binnacle, taped new cable to old and pulled. I don't think it was 100% necessary to remove the cover but I wanted to anyway. That was a disaster. I broke off a few bolt heads and even broke the studs.

 

[mark_m]

I removed the cover above the fuel tank, disconnected from the binnacle, taped new cable to old and pulled. I don't think it was 100% necessary to remove the cover but I wanted to anyway. That was a disaster. I broke off a few bolt heads and even broke the studs.

I pulled my fuel hatch when i ran my amp wiring a few years back. Thanks for sharing, I figure that all of it will be clearer once I pull apart the binnacle, see the lines with the hatch off and back thru, when I get the boat out and clean her.

 

[Beachbummer]

So the cable can be adjusted at both ends. At the throttle levers and at the intake body. You can remove only the black cover/flame arrestor tubes on the intake to make your life easier. I think If the cable is in you already did the hard part. Can you share pictures at both ends? Ideally the adjustment is close enough the throttle levers are matching each other closely.

 

[rtucker11]

I don't see any way to adjust things any more inside of the binnacle. The cable seems to be adjusted as far as it can go.

 

[Beachbummer]

And your adjustment at the engine side is also at the end??

 

[rtucker11]

And your adjustment at the engine side is also at the end??

Yep

 

[Beachbummer]

That is very odd indeed. How many more turns would you need on the engine side to get when you need? Maybe a coupling and another tube gets you there? Maybe the tolerances of the cable are not quite right.

 

[rtucker11]

That is very odd indeed. How many more turns would you need on the engine side to get when you need? Maybe a coupling and another tube gets you there? Maybe the tolerances of the cable are not quite right.

I think I need about 3 more threads. I'm inclined to just leave it as is and adjust the other side to match.
My thinking is now I max out at about 10,000 rpms instead of 10,200 which I believe is just fine.

 

[Hike]

My MR-1 engines are maxing out at around 9700rpm. I have a habit of messing things up.. So just to be sure, by turning the threads on the end of the throttle cable at the engine , I can tighten up the cable and potentially see a higher rpm? or does the throttle stop arm adjustment at the throttle body, the one with some kind of star/torx set screw adjust the max rpm stop?

 

[buckbuck]

It has been awhile but I believe the torx screw will adjust the low end of the throttle range. I believe you want to loosen the two nuts that clamp the end of the throttle cable. I will just say that in my opinion it is not worth doing unless you are running at wide open throttle for extended periods. I would remind you the the engines consume enormous amounts of fuel at 10,000 rpm.

 

[Hike]

10,200 RPM's HERE I COME! I hope it works! I've already increased the opening of the buckets so they clear the jet path.

So you loosen the nuts so that the threaded cable housing moves away from the engine correct?

 

[buckbuck]

Correct

 

[Hike]

The throttle set screw with the two bolts didn’t effect the rpm limit which is currently at 9600, but did help sync the throttles. Does anyone know what this screw does on the throttle body? Is it some sort of throttle stop?