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07 to 09 230 Series Shift Cable Replacement

cwoav8r

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Changed the port side shift cable today, took one hour start to finish. Tried a new idea for pulling the cable through and it worked perfectly!

It took seven tools, and I didn't even have to open the swim platform hatch:

Crescent Wrench
Channel Lock Pliers
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
5/16 Combination Wrench
Needle Nose Pliers
Heat Gun
Jetboaters.net

Parts:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/teleflex-reverse-gate-part-number.3033/#post-61462

I'll leave out some of the parts that we already know how to do from previous posts...
https://jetboaters.net/threads/how-to-replace-reverse-gate-cable.28/

Used the crescent wrench holding it at a 45 deg angle to remove the nylon nut on the thru hull fitting. It only took a turn and a half then it came off by hand. Installed it back the same way:
20141011_101438.jpg

Transom side disassembled and ready to pull... counted the turns when removing the cable end fitting, mine was 16 turns:
20141011_101853.jpg

Binnacle out, three screws to separate the halves, one on either side at the top and one on the bottom... don't loose this nut!
20141011_102658e.jpg
Two more screws at the bottom to remove the plastic cover (pic didn't come out) :confused:

Wow! I didn't know my boat came with free spare parts! I'll remove that and save it for later...20141011_102838e.jpg
Remove the nylon end from the shift cable. No need to count turns here... it was turned all the way on. Remember the jam nut when you put it back together.

An indication of how stiff the shift cable was... it was so hard to move that it bent the rod in the binnacle:
20141011_103236.jpg
Here comes the fun part. I was trying to figure out the best way to attach the cables together to pull the new one through. I don't know if it has been done before, but here is what I came up with:

Went to Ace Hardware and bought a 10-32 connecting nut ($4.50). On the new cable, thread the jam nut on all the way, then spin on the connecting nut... all the way. Install a short piece of the appropriate diameter heat shrink tubing over the end of the new cable. Butt the end of the old cable to the new and thread the connecting nut on it. Tighten the jam nuts and shrink the heat shrink tubing with a heat gun. I did all this on the binnacle side, thought it would be easier with only one person to pull from the transom side, and it was. The pull literally took 60 seconds, and it was all the way through. :cool:
20141011_103838.jpg
20141011_104039.jpg 20141011_104226.jpg

Well... there's your problem...
20141011_104433.jpg

I figure I had maybe one more trip on this cable before it broke completely. As I was coiling it up to put it in the garbage, the end snapped in half.

Here is the cable pulled through the transom. I did put about four or five wraps of electrical tape as indicated on the pic, just to soften the edge a bit:
20141011_104757e.jpg

Remove the heat shrink and put everything back together. Right after I first got the boat I always noticed that smaller (end) rubber boot on the cable wouldn't stay put, and I think that may have contributed to the failure. I added a couple of zip ties to keep the boots in place.
20141011_112258e.jpg

And the part# on the old cable, just for verification:
20141011_105950.jpg
I was really shocked at how easy the cable pulled through... I was prepared to spend all day with this and like I said, I was done in an hour.

I was so encouraged by the luck I was having, I decided to pull up the hydroturf under the drink holder (above the head) and install my new SeaDek faux teak panel. That took another four hours... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: As bad as I want to do it... I will definitely wait for winter to tackle the swim platform!

One last note... the mobile version of this site ROCKS! I referenced it three or four times while I was working on the boat to make sure I was putting stuff back together correctly. Thank you @Administrative !

Thanks for watching... I hope it can be of some help to those that choose to tackle a shift cable replacement.

L8R ;)
 
Last edited:

Scottintexas

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good thinking,

@Julian can this go in member tips section, thanks
 

Julian

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Murf'n'surf

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Great write up Ed! My cables were zip tied all through the bilge and I ended up taking the clean out tray off in order to get the old ones out!

Perfect day for some maintenance, I too was in the shop getting the boat ready. Hope to get out Sunday.
 

Bruce

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Great write up, Thanks!
 

txav8r

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Agreed, great write-up!
 

cwoav8r

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Perfect day for some maintenance, I too was in the shop getting the boat ready. Hope to get out Sunday.
Good! Headed out the door now... maybe we will see you out. :)
 

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@cwoav8r Thank you Ed for finally solving the cable size question on our boats! You just saved me from buying the wrong cable. Your write up was awesome and I am sure I will be referencing it on the mobile during the install. One question, where did you buy your cables from? Thanls again!
 

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@cwoav8r , Ed, can you tell us where you found the teleflex cable numbers on the cable? I mean which end and is there any way to get in there to identify the numbers prior to removing them? Some of the older boats had a record of part number I think but don't remember the newer models having them listed. It would be great to reference those in this post as well. I would take my throttle quadrant out and look for them, I will have to anyway when I install my mid cabin speakers, hopefully soon! Or under the swim deck maybe? I have to be in there too. So just to know which end of the cable to look for them would be great. Again, nice writeup and thanks for the effort!
 

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@cwoav8r , Ed, can you tell us where you found the teleflex cable numbers on the cable? I mean which end and is there any way to get in there to identify the numbers prior to removing them? Some of the older boats had a record of part number I think but don't remember the newer models having them listed. It would be great to reference those in this post as well. I would take my throttle quadrant out and look for them, I will have to anyway when I install my mid cabin speakers, hopefully soon! Or under the swim deck maybe? I have to be in there too. So just to know which end of the cable to look for them would be great. Again, nice writeup and thanks for the effort!
@txav8r my cables were identical on both ends....so can't tell you which end the number was on....the left end.. LOL

This thread has a couple of pics I took of the cable - you can see from one of them how far from the end of the cable the # is stamped:


https://jetboaters.net/threads/teleflex-reverse-gate-part-number.3033/#post-61516
 

cwoav8r

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One question, where did you buy your cables from?
They had it on the shelf at West Marine... my Port Supply price was $38... retail was $42.
 

cwoav8r

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Ed, can you tell us where you found the teleflex cable numbers on the cable?
@txav8r Mel, when I started looking for the part number on the old cable, I was looking near both ends and didn't see it. My best recollection it that it was about 3' or more from the transom end... and that would have put it at a point in the boat that you could not see it with it installed. I didn't think to check the other end or measure where the labels were. :confused:

@Julian my part number was definitely not that close to the end on the old cable.

You know how part numbers go on wiring and cables... I think it is just stamped at random intervals on the jacket and they make sure it appears at least once every so many feet.

And just for clarification... the old number was CC63318. I replaced it with CCX63318, which is an updated cable.

The SBT site was my best resource for figuring out the proper Teleflex cable length, they cover '96 thru '11 model Yamaha's:

http://www.shopsbt.com/jet-skis/yamaha-jet-boat-reverse-cable.html

And what a difference the cable change made. Out on the water today and it was SOOOO much better! I was looking for you @Murf'n'surf ... I had quite a crew on the boat that I was preoccupied with, so if I missed you :(. And... I was flying my new flag! :D

20141012_143911.jpg
 

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@cwoav8r the part # was only stamped once on my replacement cables, and you are right....it is probably quite variable where it is.
 

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We decided to hit the beach with some friends so the kiddos could all play. I'm ready for next weekend!
 

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Well it looks like its my turn. Took the boat out for the first time this season on Saturday and the port throttle was very stiff. thought I could lubricate it until finding this tread. I've ordered my cables and all of the items that @cwoav8r suggests.

My question is, do I need to remove the clean-out tray cover like @Julian did to seal the through hull hole, or not like Ed did.

Thanks for clarification.
 

Zarrella

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@Topper232
No you do not need to remove it. We have the same boat and I did this a few months ago. I also replaced them both and it took about an hour and a half. I found the cables on E-Bay for $36.00 each. And as @cwoav8r said the proper number for your boat is CCX63318. This was a lot easier to do than I thought it would be.
 

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Thanks @Zarrella. I did order CCX63318, and ordered 2 just do both and be done with both. Do I need to seal that outside of the through-hull opening then?
 

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No you do not need to seal it.
 

Topper232

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Thanks Ed, John & Julian. I just replaced both of my cables today. Without this site and this thread, I would not have felt comfortable tackling this type of job. What a difference. They move like new.

Now I just have to drop it in the water to make sure my gates are sitting correctly.

And since I just saved a couple of bucks, I just ordered Sea Dek Faux Teak.
 
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Zarrella

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Awesome! Glad it went smoothly.
 
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