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Throttle tension different between port and starboard

VitaminSea

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
745
Reaction score
525
Points
197
Location
Central FL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2012
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
21
I noticed that my starboard side throttle is rather tense, taking considerable effort to shift from neutral to forward or reverse (as well as past the detent). Port side could potentially be tensor. Initial goal is to remove some tension from the port side to make it smoother to work the throttle around the dock. Secondary goal would be to add a little tension to the port side.

I was tinkering around with the “tensor” adjustment and did not noticed much of a difference (also appeared there was limited adjustment here, maybe 1 rotation).

Boat is as 2012 sx210. Should I consult the throttle drop FAQ, or could this be something else?

Thanks in advance!

———————-

Edit: For reference - turns out the issue was I was in need of replacing my bucket cable.
Utilized SeaStar CCX63318, about $50 and is the same cable as OEM

To complete both sides it took me approximately 3hrs. I did need to pull up the fuel tank cover as the existing cables were zip tied with other cable runs.

On the 210 the starboard cable was the most challenging to pull through the thru-hull fitting, due to how the cable needs to bend around the clean out port tube.

Starboard cable was split and corroded. Port side ended up not being corroded, but post replacement the throttle engagement is noticeable smoother.

Links to two write ups that assisted me.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/reverse-cable-replacement.19187/

https://jetboaters.net/threads/how-to-replace-reverse-gate-cable.28/
 
Last edited:
Might be more corrosion in that bucket/reverse cable than the other. I just changed both of mine and the difference was incredible. I bought my boat 2 years ago and didn’t know how they were supposed to be. If I had known the impact I would have done this right away after buying the boat
 
I agree. There are folks who have mechanisms for oiling the cables, but they are not really supposed to be oiled. They are supposed to be sealed and, when the seal fails and they start to get hard to move, replaced.

There are a few threads on here with some nice write-ups of how to do it. Takes a bit of time, but not a difficult job.
 
Might be more corrosion in that bucket/reverse cable than the other. I just changed both of mine and the difference was incredible. I bought my boat 2 years ago and didn’t know how they were supposed to be. If I had known the impact I would have done this right away after buying the boat

Might be the case. I was hoping to rule other things out first. Thinking about it, next time I am at the boat, I am going to disconnect the bucket from the cable and see how the throttles respond, as well as ensure the buckets move freely on both jets.

How challenging and time consuming is swapping out the cables? I know I have seen a few post on it here...
 
I agree. There are folks who have mechanisms for oiling the cables, but they are not really supposed to be oiled. They are supposed to be sealed and, when the seal fails and they start to get hard to move, replaced.

There are a few threads on here with some nice write-ups of how to do it. Takes a bit of time, but not a difficult job.

thanks for answering my question (You posted as I was replying). Time is the biggest challenge with having two board / stir crazy kids stuck in the house!!!
 
I did one when I snapped off the end of the cable once (a brilliant move I don't recommend). Maybe an hour long job? Or 1.5 hours. Biggest problem you will have is if you lose the screws you take out or something like that...
 
@tdonoughue
Yep, made it back to the boat this weekend, and its not the reverse bucket, so it appears to be the cable.

Found your write up, and the other one posted in the FAQs. Looks like I have another project to tackle! Wife keeps asking what does the boat need now... I try explaining, hey its 8 years old, and we purchased it for ~50% of a new one. Its just some deferred maintenance. I’m surprised the 21ft and the 24ft use the same cable (18ft)....

 
So this afternoon I set out to replace my reverse bucket cables. Started with the starboard side as that was the side that had lots of tension when trying to shift from neutral.
58BA6B43-5C06-440E-B230-BA377F55A0EF.jpeg
This is what I found. I noticed this was similar to what a few others posted.

I was wondering how critical the stainless washer is when re assembling the thru hull fitting (image below from when I was disassembling). I am not able to get the washer beyond the larger rubber boot... Thoughts?
B013451A-2162-4C82-AC19-14EBCA70FA22.jpeg

still have the port side to tackle as well as ensuring I have the buckets properly aligned. FWIW, It took me around 2 hrs. The biggest challenge was getting the cable back thru the thru hull fitting as it has to bend around the clean out port and then be straight to align with the fitting. Image of fitting below from the bilge.

05042550-3BF0-4144-A3AD-1FAEFFC0159A.jpeg
 
Trying to remember about the washer...

Do those boots slide off easily? Maybe I slid them off to install the washer? It's been awhile and I have slept since then...
 
Trying to remember about the washer...

Do those boots slide off easily? Maybe I slid them off to install the washer? It's been awhile and I have slept since then...

Yeah, I might need to slide the boot down. Thanks.
 
@VitaminSea I'm just going through the same grief. Pulling the cable was a piece of cake - relatively speaking. The rest of it is sucking right now - but that's another thread.
The two small boots come off fairly easily and then you can slide the big rubber one off. The smaller ones are easy to get off and replaced with the ones on the new cable anyway,
IMHO, the steel washer is pretty much essential to keep from buggering up the locking plastic one....
 
To bring closure to this, I finished the starboard side. Yes, the boots needed to be removed so the washer could slide on over the end of the cable.
I also tackled the port side. Wasn’t in as bad of shape as the starboard side (which swelled and split) and probably could have waited...

Thanks to all for the feedback and assistance along the way! I updated my OP to include the solution.
 
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