Today's Work (board rack, cables, sound proofing, battery, boxes)

[tdonoughue]

Got up to the boat today and did some work.

First, FINALLY installed the swivel rack that I bought... um, years ago. And it has been sitting in my boat taking up space. Had to figure out how to adjust the angle (I thought I would have to press the two pieces apart, but I was able to rotate them using a bar clamp to grab the tower clamp piece--that gave me enough leverage to rotate it). Then it was pretty easy--just screw it on (once I put it on upside down, then flipped it over and put it on the other side like it is supposed to be--don't ask).


Then, I finished the off-season project of redoing all of my battery cables. You may recall, I had an issue with low battery alerts. Figured out that there were loose cable connections on the ends. Then figured out that the switch was broken. So, replaced the switch, but still had issues. Wiggled some wires and figured out more cables were bad. So, fed up, I bought a proper cable termination crimper tool and proper terminators: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVE48Z6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B083QBQKC5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I set about methodically pulling each cable. Each cable size was evaluated, the right terminator put on it (fitting the bolt on which it was connected, too). Then heat shrink installed on each. I know it is not the neatest install, but in the interest of 'pics or it didn't happen':


Still was only getting 12.something volts, while connected to the charger. And I tightened everything and everything. Unplugged the charger and re-plugged it in. Noticed that it was on gel mode. Put it back to flooded mode and the voltage started coming up to where it should be. So another victory.

I got my new Harbor Freight ammo boxes, so I pulled a number of cheaper boxes I had in there and reorganized the boat crap into the new boxes. No pics--that was boring.

Then, I got some egg crate, so I was going to install that into the engine compartment. I opened the hatch, where I had stuck some dynamat stuff to the hatch:


Being nearly as perceptive as you, I, too, noticed that there is no dynamat stuff there.



Oh, there it is. Stuck all over the top of my engines. With that black goo EVERYWHERE. You can see drips on the drain hose pretty easily. But they are everywhere. Bottom of the bilge, covers, air filter cover--everywhere. And check out the starboard engine exhaust manifold. That stuff is all over it.

I didn't have any solvent with me, so I pulled off the pieces from the engine, tossed them with disgust, and closed the whole thing up to take care of that a different day.

So, a mixed review, but more wins than losses. I will take it. Progress.

 

[zipper]

ICK! I know you have a can of Debond kickin around. Try it. That should help cleanup the leftover adhesive. That really sucks Tim.
It looks like they used butyl adhesive that melted everywhere.

EDIT: I had pretty good results removing 29 yo butyl from the portlights on the Bene.

 

[Sonic Blue]

Geez that looks like a lot of work to clean up. but everything else looks good. I’ve been thinking about that “egg crate” foam. I have a small recording studio and have been conscious of sound deadening for years. All foam is not created equal. The foam panels I have are more dense (and more expensive) than just crate packing foam. Density is the key to sound attenuation. I wonder if car engine firewall fabric would do a better job in reducing some of that engine noise and be more practical moving forward.

 

[tdonoughue]

Today's work:


Ok, it's not perfect yet, but I got almost all of the gunk off the engines (the stuff on the exhaust manifold was my main concern) and a lot of it out of the bilge. I brought about every solvent I could find in the garage: @zipper 's debonder, Goo-Off, Off-Goo, an automotive tar & asphalt remover, acetone, mineral spirits, carb cleaner. Plastic and metal scrapers, toothbrushes, metal brush...

First, I scraped. A surprising amount was able to be scraped right off (it was cool enough out still). That was less to dissolve with solvent. For the manifold, I went for the carb cleaner. That worked pretty well. Seemed to be pretty 1-shot, tho. The cleaner took off the top level of goo, but then stopped working as it evaporated. I didn't want to use the debonder on the engine (and accidentally melt away some gasket material or something). Carb cleaner seemed pretty safe on the metal of the engine. Took repeated sprays and then some scrubbing with the metal brush, but got it all cleaned off the exhaust manifold. Intake manifold was more difficult to get to and got all but a few little spots.

For the covers, didn't want to do the carb cleaner, so went for the asphalt/tar remover on that. The remover is an oily substance, so a little on a rag goes a long way. It cleaned those up nicely with just some rag work. In order to make sure that residue did not destroy anything, I used a general purpose spray cleaner on them afterward (with a fresh cloth).

Then I went after the bilge. One of my oil absorbing mats got a very good hit with the goo--so I just pulled that out and tossed it. I had the asphalt/tar stuff on the rag already, so I tried that first. It worked pretty well. It keeps working after it is on there and basically slowly melts the stuff away. So I worked in shifts, scrubbing one part then letting that sit and moving to scrub another, then coming back. Bilge has not been this clean in awhile...

I still have some bits to do in the bilge (and to wash the back of the bilge, while I am there. But at least now it is runable. I did manage to kneel in a little spec of the goo accidentally, apparently. Ground it right into the SeaDek. Guess what? Asphalt stuff worked there, too. Again, hit it with the general purpose cleaner afterward, just to make sure no ill effects.

@Sonic Blue , yes, I got some cheap egg crate that I will just overlay the existing foam. I found even that cheap stuff particularly applied to the SIDES of the engine compartment made a substantial difference. I am hoping to use this new stuff I bought to permanently install a greater surface area there. But I do like the engine firewall fabric idea. Main problem with this stuff is that I bought it like 4 or 5 years ago. It has been in the garage, in the boat, hot, cold--and I finally installed it. The falling bits were the last 3 pieces that I figured I would not pull the entire foam from the rest of the hatch, but just go on top. Oops. Yeah, don't do that.

To reward myself for the cleanup, installed a new piece of SeaDek I got on clearance (the existing piece was turning to dust, but came off in one piece, just peeling with my fingers, leaving no residue). Proof:


And they lived happily ever after. The end.

 

[Manny252]

Got up to the boat today and did some work.

First, FINALLY installed the swivel rack that I bought... um, years ago. And it has been sitting in my boat taking up space. Had to figure out how to adjust the angle (I thought I would have to press the two pieces apart, but I was able to rotate them using a bar clamp to grab the tower clamp piece--that gave me enough leverage to rotate it). Then it was pretty easy--just screw it on (once I put it on upside down, then flipped it over and put it on the other side like it is supposed to be--don't ask).
View attachment 140272View attachment 140273View attachment 140274

Then, I finished the off-season project of redoing all of my battery cables. You may recall, I had an issue with low battery alerts. Figured out that there were loose cable connections on the ends. Then figured out that the switch was broken. So, replaced the switch, but still had issues. Wiggled some wires and figured out more cables were bad. So, fed up, I bought a proper cable termination crimper tool and proper terminators: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVE48Z6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B083QBQKC5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I set about methodically pulling each cable. Each cable size was evaluated, the right terminator put on it (fitting the bolt on which it was connected, too). Then heat shrink installed on each. I know it is not the neatest install, but in the interest of 'pics or it didn't happen':
View attachment 140275

Still was only getting 12.something volts, while connected to the charger. And I tightened everything and everything. Unplugged the charger and re-plugged it in. Noticed that it was on gel mode. Put it back to flooded mode and the voltage started coming up to where it should be. So another victory.

I got my new Harbor Freight ammo boxes, so I pulled a number of cheaper boxes I had in there and reorganized the boat crap into the new boxes. No pics--that was boring.

Then, I got some egg crate, so I was going to install that into the engine compartment. I opened the hatch, where I had stuck some dynamat stuff to the hatch:
View attachment 140276

Being nearly as perceptive as you, I, too, noticed that there is no dynamat stuff there.

View attachment 140277

Oh, there it is. Stuck all over the top of my engines. With that black goo EVERYWHERE. You can see drips on the drain hose pretty easily. But they are everywhere. Bottom of the bilge, covers, air filter cover--everywhere. And check out the starboard engine exhaust manifold. That stuff is all over it.

I didn't have any solvent with me, so I pulled off the pieces from the engine, tossed them with disgust, and closed the whole thing up to take care of that a different day.

So, a mixed review, but more wins than losses. I will take it. Progress.

IM GOING TO PUT A THINK YOGA MATT OR POOL SWIM MAT OVER MY ENGINES, IM THINKING THAT SHOULD HELP WITH THE NOISE , BESIDES WRAPPING THE MUFFLERS AND ITS AREA ?

 

[tdonoughue]

@Manny252 , just want to be careful with the temperature control is all. You probably don't want just a regular foam mat on the engines--it may melt. And it also may make the engines run hot, cause vapor lock, etc. So you might consider putting those things on the hatch rather than on the engines.

 

[swatski]

@tdonoughue inspired by your posts last year on cleaning up the electric, I gathered my tools and wire, etc., will be cleaning up the electric as soon as the weather warms up. It all works, but got a bit messy over the years, time to straighten it up and re familiarize myself with the system.
Thank you for the inspiration!


--

 

[Ronnie]

@tdonoughue , is that the board rack I sold you years ago? if so Im glad to see that you are getting use out of it or soon will be. Great job on the clean up and electrical work. I’ve done a lot of the same work over the years so know most of it is done from a kneeling position which makes it that much harder not only to do but also to get motivated to do.

 

[Manny252]

@Manny252 , just want to be careful with the temperature control is all. You probably don't want just a regular foam mat on the engines--it may melt. And it also may make the engines run hot, cause vapor lock, etc. So you might consider putting those things on the hatch rather than on the engines.

OK, Thanks for the reply and will keep a look out and fire ext !

 

[RobbieO]

I'm leaning towards the 2 LB MLV soundproofing on the engine hatch, and then put the foam on top of it. After researching, I think MLV is the way to go. Watch the video below. Sounds just like my boat!

2 LB Noise Grabber™ MLV

• Highest Quality Mass Loaded Vinyl • Lab tested with 32 STC rating • Proven sound blocking results See More Details

soundproofingmlv.com

 

[tdonoughue]

@tdonoughue , is that the board rack I sold you years ago? if so Im glad to see that you are getting use out of it or soon will be. Great job on the clean up and electrical work. I’ve done a lot of the same work over the years so know most of it is done from a kneeling position which makes it that much harder not only to do but also to get motivated to do.

Yes! It is! Took me quite a while to get it up. Had it at one time, then had to fix the fit. Then got a knee board and thought I would get new prongs for it.... Then took it down (fit still wasn't right). So now finally got it back up. Very solid rack. I love it. Still need it tighter on the tower (found that out when @Scottintexas visited)...

Got new electrical toys for Christmas. More installation photos coming soon...

 

[swatski]

I'm leaning towards the 2 LB MLV soundproofing on the engine hatch, and then put the foam on top of it. After researching, I think MLV is the way to go. Watch the video below. Sounds just like my boat!

2 LB Noise Grabber™ MLV

• Highest Quality Mass Loaded Vinyl • Lab tested with 32 STC rating • Proven sound blocking results See More Details

soundproofingmlv.com

In my experience the key is not to have any gaps; matters less how the gaps are enclosed, foam, air bags are actually very effective.

Also, filling empty spaces that resonate is key. I have use a combination of old ballast bags pumped full of air, memory foam, and polyurethane in closed profiles, it made a huge difference. With the application of the latter, caution must be exercised not to fill large volumes at once (from a polyurethane can) as they will heat up and could deform glass/plastic.

Another observation, Dynamat, MLV etc. work extremely well in automotive applications dumping sheath metal, but not so much on fiberglass/FRP.

 

[tdonoughue]

My experience is similar. MLV is similar to what I tried in that it adds mass to the surfaces (which means they cannot vibrate as much--takes more energy to do so). Egg crate and similar acts to absorb the sound waves (bounces them silly, basically, which exhausts their energy). I can't explain all of the physics to it yet, but I was surprised at what the cheapo egg crate was able to accomplish in the right places. Much more than the weighted mats were able to do (and often, in the same places). Perhaps it is the frequencies (in cars, I think you have lots of low frequencies to dampen). At any rate, interested to see what people come up with to expand our learning on this front.

 

[swatski]

@tdonoughue inspired by your posts last year on cleaning up the electric, I gathered my tools and wire, etc., will be cleaning up the electric as soon as the weather warms up. It all works, but got a bit messy over the years, time to straighten it up and re familiarize myself with the system.
Thank you for the inspiration!


--

Made a lot of progress, new batteries installed and wiring cleaned up in the battery compartment, moved on to the helm to clean up my bird's nest that has been building up in the last couple of year as I randomly add loads...
I ran out of daylight today, about half-done, switched most aux loads to new distribution blocks; I should have planned it better - already getting crowded, lol.


BTW - I'm also swapping the helm hatch door assembly so the door is out - not installing a new one until I'm done with the electric cleanup - IT IS SO MUCH EASIER TO FIT IN THERE WITH THE HATCH OUT! lol. Seriously, gain of 1-2" of space on each side! Does not make working in there exactly comfortable, but for me it becomes... doable.