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Tow valve location.

Philip

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
118
Reaction score
20
Points
132
Location
Long Island NY
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
Other
Boat Model
242 Limited S E-Series
Boat Length
24
Just picked up a 16 242 LSE and was looking to install tow/flush valves like I did on my 2011 242. I peeped under the clean out tray and it looks like a different set up. On my 11 I could see valves, on the 16 it looks like they are buried. Any advise? Pics etc...TIA
 
Last edited:
Well I'm glad to hear its not just me. There is no way I can install tow valves in my 2016 242... I thought maybe I just had shorter then average arms.
 
I’m sure people have installed but where I used to see valves looks like they relocated pump tubing.
 
Do you think a beach towel shoved down the clean out port and in front of the impeller would prevent water pressure during a tow? I think it would. - Don't want to be first to try it though.
 
Water comes in via pump on side of jet. Not sure ur idea would do anything.
 
Cooling water enters the system via pressure inside the pump after the impeller. If you stopped water or slowed it considerably from getting past the impeller with said towel, you would prevent water pressure inside the pump.
 
I want valves to flush Motors in slip.
 
2016 242 Limited S E-Series
Added mine under the swim platform next to the cleanouts.
Cannot see them through the inspection manhole due to how the exhaust is crammed in there.
I put a zip tie on each of them and left the tail long do I can find the zip tie and follow it to the valve. The zip tie also gives me peace of mind that the valves are open and didn't vibrate closed or something. It's a good reach through the manhole but easier than me trying to get to the back of the engines where the Y connector is (had a hell of a time replacing the hoses and clamps in there due to rust, which is what started the project of adding the valves for me.)

20200625_132007.jpg
20200625_110722.jpg
20200623_141624.jpg
 
I did the same as above but used PVC valves and put a loop in the line so the valves are up top so all I have to do is unscrew the access ports and the valves are right there
 
Doesn’t the loop restrict the gravity drain , w loop won’t water get trapped in there ?
 
It might, dunno but during the season I'm not worried about it. It is easy enough to drain ant the end of the year with just loosening a clamp and pulling the hose off.
 
@ Wolverine Do you have a pic of the port side valve ? On my old 2011 242 they were more accessible.
 
@Phillip
The pic from earlier is my starboard side, here is the port
20200625_105307.jpg

Keep in mind that when the access panel is screwed down you can't see around the cleanout tube and the exhaust to visually inspect through the manhole.
When I pulled the access cover I found lots of rusted out clamps on all pretty much every lower bilge hose, water in, water out, cleanout tray drain, exhaust hoses etc. This whole project wasn't meant to happen. I had pulled my cupholders on the swim platform to fit rod holder ones in their place and saw the rusted clamps and bits and pieces of stuff.
I got my boat in February. It has been a salt water boat in the Keys and Miami it's whole life so might want to pull that panel and take a look! Also the clamps on the engine side for water in all around the Y connector were terrible.20200622_145500.jpg
How the water intake line looked

20200622_150008.jpg
Exhaust out

20200622_151748.jpg
Crap found in bilge (dealer had replaced my steering cables prior to purchase... Imagine that...)

20200623_101529.jpg
Y Connector behind engines

20200623_141820.jpg
Stuff removed and installed

20200229_121959.jpg
All you can see with just the manhole removed
 
@wolverine- thanks. My hatch area seems to be in perfect condition with no visible rust. Boat had 13 hours on it. Looks like you removed some exhaust plumbing to install valves. Do u always keep zip ties on and just slide off as needed ? I will use valves very frequently
 
Nice. I used island racing valves in past and picked up another pair
 
@Phillip
My boat had about 100 hours when I got it
I did remove the port exhaust hose to access that area as well as released some of the bungee straps they used to mount the water boxes
I needed to put new clamps on the exhaust hoses anyway and decided it wanted to extra space to work20200623_100714.jpg
 
I keep the zip ties on. They are tightened just enough so I can side them on and off as needed and still know that the valve couldn't accidently vibrate closed or something... And if course since I can't see my valves it gives me that long tail to let my hand follow down to the valves
 
Also note, most every clamp I removed I broke or cut off with wire dykes. Several crumbled as soon as I touched them. The problematic ones were the ones that Yamaha used a squeeze type clamp. They put up a good fight.
 
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