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UPDATE: FIXED - Starter or Solenoid or Bad Connection?

TOGA

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2006 MR1 engines

An intermittent problem that started last year is now a real problem.

It occurs on both engines, but now I have lost confidence that I can get the port engine to turn over.

When I turn the key, the solenoid clicks, but the engine does nothing.

Today I had to turn the key 30 times to get the starter to engage. The starboard engine acts up occasionally.

Now here's the extra info I hopes help you all to direct me to the right fix...

I have a constant "No Wake Mode" error on that engine. I have read that that can be caused by a low voltage problem.

Battery is new. Voltage on battery is good.

Could this be a bad connection somewhere, and if so, where do you suggest I start.

If not a connection, I have read multiple threads where some encountered this and it was the starter while others had bad solenoids.

How do I work through determining what it is.

Warning - I can be mechanically astute, but this is all new to me, so I need all the details and guidance you can provide.
 

rkluck

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Not an expert but here are a few thoughts. If you have a new battery is it fully charged? New does not mean charged. I would check the voltage at the solenoids. Is it the same as the battery. Then check the voltage as you try to start. If you have an amp meter that is even better to see if the there is a draw or not. It is odd you have both engines having the same problem. I would think initially it has to be something common between them. Many times there is a bad ground connection. Check these to make sure all the wire connections are clean and tight. My guess would be there is a loss and/or dirty connection.
 

chesbay007

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Both solenoids need to be replaced. Buy OEM only. The job will take you about 2 hours, another set of hands makes the job alot easier. I've had the same problem on my 05 AR several times.
 

TOGA

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UPDATE - Both Batteries are fully charged and I cleaned all connections. Weren’t really dirty, but went ahead and checked that off the list. Tried to start, just clicking at ECU / Solenoid.

Took a heavy object and tapped starter. She started right up. This was all in the driveway.

Headed to lake. Backed her in. Fired right up.

Went to brunch at marina and came back out and she started clicking again. 4th turn she fired.

Brought her into a cove and tried the key swap to eliminate it being a key switch. Switch fired the other engine fine and the other switch did not start the problem engine.

Climbed into bilge and tapped the starter some more. Nothing.

Now I’m back to just bumping the key unti she finally hits and praying I don’t have to troll back 15 miles at 5 mph.

What do y’all think?

Chesbay007 votes Solenoids. Sounds like a couple hour job, but I might prefer it as I can’t wrap my mind around how changing the starter out can be done in 20 minutes as stated in some posts. I can’t see what two nuts need to be undone so I could see myself cussing for a day trying to figure that out.
 

TOGA

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@fairpilot

Quoting from an old post of yours “If it is the solenoid then it is coming from box where red battery wires of into it. The part is simple to change and inexpensive, it is the easy start place. Mine would not start no matter what, just click, i got stuck on water but was able to use a screw driver and jump across it and it started, drove home without shutting off then replaced. When yours does it try to locate where the click is coming from, you will be able to tell and can prob touch ECM and feel the click. How are you batteries? are they older than 3-4 yrs ? If so I would either take out and have load tested (free at auto parts store) or replace”

How did you jump with a screwdriver?

Did you remove the front plate with 4 screws that you can access inside the bilge and jump the two red connections?

If I new that was what you did and it starts the engines then I’d know it was the solenoids and not the starter.
 

chesbay007

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I've replaced both, three times on my boat. Yes, sometimes you have to turn the key 20-30 times to engage the starter. I wouldn't put it off any longer.
 

TOGA

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I've replaced both, three times on my boat. Yes, sometimes you have to turn the key 20-30 times to engage the starter. I wouldn't put it off any longer.
They are on order.

Jumped the solenoid this afternoon after I couldn’t hit the lucky spot. It fired as soon as I jumped it with the wife turning the key as soon as she heard it turn over.

I thought the engine would start when I jumped it with the key in on position, but it didn’t. She had to turn key to start when I bridged it. Not sure what else is involved in the process.

I’m still curious about the no wake issue on that engine. I’ve checked the engine ground connections (I think) and they seem good. Ground at starter and the ground connection to the other engine.

Any idea on it?

I’ve also noticed that when I turn the key to start the engines now, the stereo speakers pop. That’s a new development in conjunction with the solenoid.
 

TOGA

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I ordered 2 solenoids from Glenparts hoping the $9 part would be the correct one since it pulled up with the original Yamaha part #. Yamaha Sports Plaza wanted $78 each. I figures it was worth a gamble.

The solenoid connections are different as they are male post connections rather than sealed wires into the part. The posts had to be bent to angle down to fit back into the ECU box.

I followed the detailed instructions provided on the forum to change these with the expectation that it would take 2 hours to replace them both.

It ended up asking 3 hours and 3 beers. Took my time and enlisted the help of my wife to manage the nuts on the backside.

Final result, boat starts without issue.

Weekend was terrible down here this weekend with rain and storms, so havene’t been able to take it out and see if this possibly fixed the No Wake Issue on that engine.

Thanks to those that responded and guided me through this.
 

TOGA

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Another Update on this repair / replacement of the solenoids...

The other issue I had been having was the fault (68 code) on the No Wake Mode.

That issue has been fixed as well.

I guess something was happening through the solenoid that was creating the fault.

Any way, all is fixed with $18, 3 hours and a few beers!
 

chesbay007

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AR
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23
Another Update on this repair / replacement of the solenoids...

The other issue I had been having was the fault (68 code) on the No Wake Mode.

That issue has been fixed as well.

I guess something was happening through the solenoid that was creating the fault.

Any way, all is fixed with $18, 3 hours and a few beers!
 
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