VIBRATION DISASTER I CANNOT RESOLVE...PLEASE HELP

[ricardoar190]

Hello JB members,

I need your input and help on an issue that I been trying to solve since the day I got my first boat, a 2018 yamaha AR 190 with extended warranty. I have this vibration at around 2k to 3k that I figure it was normal as I have read throughout multiple forums that is could be normal from these Yamaha but something is still not quite right a you can see from video link below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v9tB3Xb0sq9Z6ZTCQWlifYGNdr1RKQu2/view?usp=sharing

Things done so far to correct issue with no luck:
- dealer replaced intermediate bearing and I think coupler as well ( an ordeal but thats a different story) no actual difference in noise.
- I replaced jet pump liner with plastic ring ( a bit more quieter) but nothing significant.
- inspected jet pump bearings for water intrusion and seizing but found no issues. Also did the oil bath while at it since grease seem to do very little as far as lubing.
- spend lots of time and money on noise reducing stuff around engine and water box compartment with little help.
- replaced spark plugs and oil.
- check shaft for potential bend.

at this point I think the pump bearings are shot because the sound comes from the jet pump area when rev above 2k. When in the water the vibration stays all the way up until 3k approximately.

I want to bring it back to my local dealer but I will avoid at all cost since they are a mess to deal with and rather do the work myself.

Any thoughts I would appreciate it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v9tB3Xb0sq9Z6ZTCQWlifYGNdr1RKQu2/view?usp=sharing

 

[swatski]

If you pull out the pump, the stator segment with the shaft - does the shaft turn smoothly inside the bearings?

is it factory impeller? Is the delrin ring really tight, and have you had it running in the water to break-in the plastic, they can fit super tight, which is actually good.

I would not dismiss a noise coming from the pump in these boats, but if the shaft rotates smoothly and you inspected the bearings, keep in mind they all sound terrible on a hose.

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[WREKS]

@ricardoar190 Have you checked the coupler clearance between the engine and the intermediate shaft?

 

[ricardoar190]

If you pull out the pump, the stator segment with the shaft - does the shaft turn smoothly inside the bearings?

is it factory impeller? Is the delrin ring really tight, and have you had it running in the water to break-in the plastic, they can fit super tight, which is actually good.

I would not dismiss a noise coming from the pump in these boats, but if the shaft rotates smoothly and you inspected the bearings, keep in mind they all sound terrible on a hose.

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Hello Swaski thanks for the prompt reply. Yes i pulled it out and it turns smoothly without play no visual signs of problems as well. I also checked the shaft for potential bending and all within spec. Impeller is factory. Yes the delrin is tight but has enough clearance. The noise in the video happened with both original and deilrin.

 

[ricardoar190]

@ricardoar190 Have you checked the coupler clearance between the engine and the intermediate shaft?

Hello WREKS,

No I have not. what should I be on the look out for as far as clearance?

I really appreciate your help.

 

[tdonoughue]

I really didn't see much unusual on the video. On hose, these boats are noisy and rumbly. Do you get a vibration while on the water at 2-3k rpm? Or is it just on hose? If just on hose, I would suggest you don't really have an issue (especially if your shaft is turning normally as you say above).

 

[ricardoar190]

I really didn't see much unusual on the video. On hose, these boats are noisy and rumbly. Do you get a vibration while on the water at 2-3k rpm? Or is it just on hose? If just on hose, I would suggest you don't really have an issue (especially if your shaft is turning normally as you say above).

hello and thanks for your feedback. that noise and vibration happens in both hose and water. However with hose it only happens at around 2k and it goes away. In water stays from 2k until 3k then it goes away. sounds like something is loose when I hit those rpms. After that is all good. Does your boat sound like that in or out of water?

Thank you so much for the help.

 

[swatski]

In a 2018 you should have the new coupler with much beefier rubber insert. I'm amazed you got to swap the intermediate bearing as that requires moving the motor...
I kind of hate to say this but these drivetrains really can be that loud and sounding... foul. out of the water especially, but there can be some vibration at low RPM. DOes it get better/worse with cruise control Thrust enhance r(or whatever they call it) (hitting the buttons in 1 or 2nd throttle indent)?
How is your top RPM and speed at WOT?

--

 

[ricardoar190]

In a 2018 you should have the new coupler with much beefier rubber insert. I'm amazed you got to swap the intermediate bearing as that requires moving the motor...
I kind of hate to say this but these drivetrains really can be that loud and sounding... foul. out of the water especially, but there can be some vibration at low RPM. DOes it get better/worse with cruise control Thrust enhance r(or whatever they call it) (hitting the buttons in 1 or 2nd throttle indent)?
How is your top RPM and speed at WOT?

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I honestly didn't even thought it was necessary but the dealer i took it to said that the intermediate bearing was the issue and so they replaced it (looks new to me) with only 90 hrs which makes no sense. Noise was the same after repairs but they claimed they fixed it lol ok. Coupler I have not looked at it as it has its cover but they said they replaced it too.

So at cruise control it gets worse so I don't use it I try to avoid that range of rpm completely. the funny thing is that in the water the vibration goes further in the rpm range like I said before up to 3k unlike out of the water where it sounds like in the video at around 2k or 2.5k cannot recall the exact number but as soon as as move pass it is gone.

RPM and speed at WOT is good always like a different boat. better of course. Basically If i cruise I sound and feel like a I am on a tractor lol.

so if you look at the second half of the video where I rev up and the noise gets really loud, is that how these boats sound? Please tell me is just mine

I

 

[swatski]

so if you look at the second half of the video where I rev up and the noise gets really loud, is that how these boats sound?

Sounds about right... maybe more throaty and that's probably due to plastic insert muffling harsher impeller sound out of OEM SS impelelr ring in the pump.
If the bearings are good, smooth and no evidence of water intrusion - I would probably run it for some time (in the water!)

If the noise gets worse, I would open the pump (pull the cone) and look at the bearings to make sure nothing is falling apart. That factory grease is fine, EPOC 0 or what not, does the job, the oil bath is probably even better. The L13 cone might help?

They really are obnoxiously loud on a hose, standing behind a pump, and engines sound rough if you open the hatch, like there are some marbles shaking inside.


--

 

[Canuckjetboater]

Hello JB members,

I need your input and help on an issue that I been trying to solve since the day I got my first boat, a 2018 yamaha AR 190 with extended warranty. I have this vibration at around 2k to 3k that I figure it was normal as I have read throughout multiple forums that is could be normal from these Yamaha but something is still not quite right a you can see from video link below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v9tB3Xb0sq9Z6ZTCQWlifYGNdr1RKQu2/view?usp=sharing

Things done so far to correct issue with no luck:
- dealer replaced intermediate bearing and I think coupler as well ( an ordeal but thats a different story) no actual difference in noise.
- I replaced jet pump liner with plastic ring ( a bit more quieter) but nothing significant.
- inspected jet pump bearings for water intrusion and seizing but found no issues. Also did the oil bath while at it since grease seem to do very little as far as lubing.
- spend lots of time and money on noise reducing stuff around engine and water box compartment with little help.
- replaced spark plugs and oil.
- check shaft for potential bend.

at this point I think the pump bearings are shot because the sound comes from the jet pump area when rev above 2k. When in the water the vibration stays all the way up until 3k approximately.

I want to bring it back to my local dealer but I will avoid at all cost since they are a mess to deal with and rather do the work myself.

Any thoughts I would appreciate it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v9tB3Xb0sq9Z6ZTCQWlifYGNdr1RKQu2/view?usp=sharing

@ricardoar190 ..... you still are on an extended warranty? If so, I would not do work myself. If your local dealer is that bad I'd find another dealer.

 

[WREKS]

@ricardoar190 Here is info on coupler clearance. If motor has been moved to replace intermediate shaft, it may have to be reshimmed to assure proper alignment. Failing to do this can lead to vibration.

 

[Beachbummer]

When you pulled the pump did you run the motor with no pump on it?

I suspect the pump...Maybe the slightest misalignment OR inner bearing that cannot be seen easily.

When you pulled the pump did the pump shaft seem tight and unable to give in any direction?

If you buy a twin engine boat we can swap the pump from one side to the other, but that is not helpful here. I would use the boat anyway.

 

[haknslash]

Ever have the shaft inspected with a dial indicator to see if it’s bent?

 

[tdonoughue]

I would say if it sounds like that on the water, I would continue to look for issues (several good suggestions above re: engine shims, shaft bent, etc.). If it just sounded like that on the hose--that is how they sound.

Also, I assume that your impellers are in good shape? The other thing that can do it is if you have a major chunk out of one blade--throws the impeller out of balance.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

The motor mounts can cause that vibration and above that r p m it goes away either one motor mount is not set at the correct level or one is bad or the engine is out of alignment on the mounts. I had the same issue when I replaced a right rear motor mount while doing an intermediate bearing, ran great but had a vibration around 2.5 to 3k then it went away above that rpm so make sure the mounts are aligned and shimmed properly and the engine is perfectly straight, doing all that is a pain in the butt.

 

[WREKS]

@Cobra Jet Steering LLC Before removing or moving an engine I found it labor saving to measure the vertical coupler clearance in order to determine if additional shims will be necessary. With the engine slightly suspended and motor mount bolts loosely in place, I slide the shims in before setting the engine down and tightening the bolts. Might have to add or remove, but it still is easier than bolting everything down only to find alignment way out of clearance.

 

[Beachbummer]

Hey, so just for clueless guy information... What exactly did you measure? This sounds like really helpful info on an engine reinstall...

 

[WREKS]

@Beachbummer Remove the coupling cover and put a straight edge over the coupling (Post # 12). The difference between one side of the coupling and the other should be less than 1mm.

 

[ricardoar190]

When you pulled the pump did you run the motor with no pump on it?

I suspect the pump...Maybe the slightest misalignment OR inner bearing that cannot be seen easily.

When you pulled the pump did the pump shaft seem tight and unable to give in any direction?

If you buy a twin engine boat we can swap the pump from one side to the other, but that is not helpful here. I would use the boat anyway.

Hello,

No I should have done that since I had it all out. I may remove the pump again one of these days to see if it makes a difference.

Yes the pump shaft was tight without any play or noise. It would also spin easily specially after the gear oil bath.

One day I may get my a dual engine we'll see how this one turns out.

Thank you

still are on an extended warranty? If so, I would not do wor