WaveRunner Rideplate Replacement - Stubborn Screws...

[VitaminSea]

Hey Guys & Gals - I decided to swap out the ride plate on my 2016 VX Cruiser HO, for the new 2019 VXR/GP due to its extended running area, and better tracking. My challenge is with removing the 4 screws that hold the paddle wheel (speedo) in place, They are being very stubborn. I read elsewhere they tend to strip easily, and to use an impact driver, and just use enough force to allow numerous “click, click, clicks”, and eventually they will loosen up. So I tried that and eventually one of the heads stripped. I took a pause and sprayed with PB Blaster to let it sit over night, tried again with the impact driver, still no luck. Another technique I read was to “drill them out”. I’ve never had the pleasure of drilling out a stripped screw/bolt before, so I purchased a set of extractor bits. After drilling out the screw head, and inserting the extractor bit, the bit broke!!!

The cable on the paddle wheel is not very long, so I can’t remove the ride plate and try to work on it from behind, or any other orientation other than under the ski....

Any suggestions? Please be specific, as I’m not overly familiar with some mechanical techniques.

 

[Ronnie]

Consider using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to take the heads off of any stripped screw. You may scuff up the mount but that doesn’t matter as long as the wheel still spins freely.

 

[VitaminSea]

Consider using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to take the heads off of any stripped screw. You may scuff up the mount but that doesn’t matter as long as the wheel still spins freely.

Thanks for the advise. I was thinking that might be the next option, remove the screw head. I don’t really care about the threads, as I won’t be reusing the old rideplate. The specs are to torque the screws to something like 3-6ft/lbs. Wondering if its galvanic corrosion that I am dealing with. The screws are SS, and I’m not sure what material the rideplate is.

 

[1WetBoat]

Those are probably the most worthless and toughest to remove screws in the world, lol. I have tried impact with no luck, i have also tried Vise-Grip/Pressure pliers to grab the head of the screw etc. As @Ronnie said, sometimes you just need to cut off the head and start with new screws.

 

[VitaminSea]

@Ronnie @1WetBoat

Do you think a bit like this would work? I am thinking with working upside down I might be more successful with a drill, then trying to come in parallel to the plate with a cut off wheel.

 

[1WetBoat]

Probably would work. Try the vice grips also, sometimes grabbing the head of the screw worked for me.

 

[Dixemon]

Easiest way to remove those is to drill them out until the head pops off. After that get a pair of vise grips on the shank and remove them.

 

[VitaminSea]

Easiest way to remove those is to drill them out until the head pops off. After that get a pair of vise grips on the shank and remove them.

Ok, never tried this before. What’s the best way to drill them out? Standard style drill bit?

 

[VitaminSea]

I know its been a few weeks, and I wanted to bring closure to this issue...

So I tired to drill out the screws using the following approaches:

• I used a set of reverse threaded extraction bits - this didn’t work, and one of the bits actual broke
• I tried the dremmel cutting wheel approach and that just caused the screw head to heat up so much that the plastic on the paddle wheel housing started to melt.
• I tried “drilling out” with some basic drill bits I had around the house, slow going...
• After some reading and research online, I decided to give a “titanium step” drill bit a try - these bits were amazing - and within 60-90 seconds I was able to drill through the head, and it popped off as @Dixemon mentions above. This is where having the correct tools (and knowledge of the correct tools is a HUGE time/aggregation saver)! I will know know for future encounters...
• 

Since I was replacing my ride plate, there was no need to remove the shaft/shank after the screw heads came off.

Here are some photos of the ride plates compared...
Stock VX plate on the left, OEM ‘19+ GP1800, ride plate on the right. As seen int he second photo this rideplate also extends the running surface.




I’ve only had the ski out once since I’ve installed the new ride plate, but have noticed that with the ribbon delete and upgraded ride plate, I have seen +3mph (GPS confirmed) added to my top end (and that was with 3/4 a tank of gas). ~4.7% improvement in top end for less than $200, and more aggressive handling to boot!

Looking forward to the next time I take it to the coast and encounter some chopper conditions than the inland lakes.