What all is needed for Maintenance

[robert843]

I know there are ton's of threads with this info but just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. I usually just let the shop do my boat and ski but at a $900 each spring I figure I may as well give it a crack and save a few $100. So for the boat the normal spring maintenance is just an oil change, spark plugs, grease the bearings and lube all cables is this it? What are you guys using to lube cables my shop usually uses some spray stuff just not sure what it is. Below is my list of items needed for this what am I missing thanks guys I'm heading to get parts today was the only reason I posted instead of digging for the answer. Also an recommendations on an oil extractor. Should I change the air filter as well.

Oil
Oil filters
Oil extractor
Spark Plugs
Marine Grease
small grease gun
something to lube the cables

 

[2nazt]

I think most have made a tool for lubing the cables with a piece of clear tubing, a schrader valve, and a few hose clamps. Just place over the cable put some pressure and let it work its way through the cables. I will look for the the post of how it was made and link.

EDIT: Here is the link to one way to line them.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/diy-steering-cable-luber.9755/

You may want to get puppy pads for when you pull the oil filter, I use the extractor from West Marine and it works great for me I have used it multiple times and requires few pumps and easy to pour out and clean.

I highly doubt the air filter is dirty.

You also may want to pull and look at the cones and possibly replace that grease inside also.

 

[atldude]

I'd throw in new oil filters as well but just depends what all you want to do as part of your maintenance.

$900.. wow!

 

[2nazt]

Ya I second the oil filters. I didn't even see it wasn't listed.

 

[robert843]

Yes filters were on my brain but not on the list thanks.

 

[robert843]

I'd throw in new oil filters as well but just depends what all you want to do as part of your maintenance.

$900.. wow!

Yeah the boat is usually $550 and the ski is $350 I figure I can do both for under probably $400 and not have to tow the boat a 100 miles each way to that shop and the local shop that does the ski sucks the keep it for like 3-4 weeks every time I drop it off.

 

[swatski]

I used to use a small POC 4-liter oil extractor for a long time, finally figured it is a one time purchase and got this:
http://www.idparts.com/professional-10l-oil-extractor-p-2833.html
What a difference. I recommend it wholeheartedly, makes the job so much easier. Also, warm up the engines or take the boat out and then do it right after you bring it back still warm. If you can lean/list the boat down towards the bow/strbd side you will be able to extract more oil.

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[Andy S]

@robert843 I have West Marine 2.9 quart extractor that you can borrow or I will sell to you. I personally like the smaller unit for the Yamaha engines, I would document how much oil was extracted, then dump the used oil into a container, and move on to the other motor. Now with a bigger motor a larger extractor would work better for me.

 

[Andy S]

You might want to add anti-seize for the spark plugs. I've had very good success with Permatex Copper Anti-Seize and Lubricant

 

[ISLANDRACING]

Everything on you list can be found here ( except the grease gun ) ---->
http://islandracing.net/212230232.html

 

[ACRDSPORT14]

@robert843 I have West Marine 2.9 quart extractor that you can borrow or I will sell to you. I personally like the smaller unit for the Yamaha engines, I would document how much oil was extracted, then dump the used oil into a container, and move on to the other motor. Now with a bigger motor a larger extractor would work better for me.

As a 1.8 yamaha engine owner, why would you want a pump that doesn't hold enough oil when you extract it? I usually get 3.5 quarts out roughly.

 

[robert843]

Whats the number for the spark plug?

 

[Andy S]

As a 1.8 yamaha engine owner, why would you want a pump that doesn't hold enough oil when you extract it? I usually get 3.5 quarts out roughly.

I forgot you can get more oil out of a 1800cc than you could out of the 1052cc that was in my '07 Yamaha.

 

[Bill D]

Whats the number for the spark plug?

LFR6A. And don't forget the spark plug socket.

 

[robert843]

I know there is something they spray on my buckets where the bolts hold the cables I also know they spray where the throttle adjustment point is in the engine compartment anyone know what that is. I know it shows up blue nit sure if its a lubricant or something to prevent corrosion.

 

[2nazt]

I know there is something they spray on my buckets where the bolts hold the cables I also know they spray where the throttle adjustment point is in the engine compartment anyone know what that is. I know it shows up blue nit sure if its a lubricant or something to prevent corrosion.

I know some chain lube for motorcycles and dirt bikes are blue they keep the debris out and lubricating properties. Maybe that is what they use? I have read people use it on the bucket areas in the rear as the color goes away just put another coat on.

https://www.amazon.com/PJ1-Blue-Label-Chain-Lube/dp/B0036GIE80

 

[robert843]

It appears it is marine grease after doing some digging. Do I need to gap these spark plugs or are they pregapped?

 

[swatski]

It appears it is marine grease after doing some digging. Do I need to gap these spark plugs or are they pregapped?

I would not do that. The LFR6As are pregapped exactly to what you need in the 1.8, and those are pretty cheap, I just swap them.
I also stopped using anti-seize after reading about heat dissipation properties of spark plugs, and also per @veedubtek advice (he is a Porsche guy, so he must know best.)

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[Bill D]

Lol, that is a matter of debate... They come pregapped but I have yet to find any that are gapped to the spec in the service manual. Some feel that it is important to have the correct gap, so they gap them down (typically from 1.1 to 0.8mm) but others feel that changing the gap makes the electrode more likely to break off. So I suppose it depends on what you think is more important, correct gap, or unchanged electrode.

 

[Bill D]

So, curiosity got me googling... It appears that the spark plugs I have bought previously were not 100% correct. I have always found "LFR6A-11" readily available and cheapest. The LFR6A-11 is NGK part #3672. NGK also makes a #6668 which is the exact same spec as the 3672 but are correctly gapped for our boats at 0.9mm. In the future I will be buying these. I have linked both part numbers below at what I believe is a reasonable price.

LFR6A-11 (3672) - https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9870
LFR6A (6668) - https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9869

EDIT: As @swatski said, they come pregapped for our boats.