what lucky13 cone spacer setting are you running?

[adamsrotors]

2017 AR190...

anyone running one on these boats, what stack setting did you end up running? I know you can change/adjust it.
rather go right to something people and already tried then mess with it blindly.

 

[jEt_jAk]

I run all 3.

 

[adamsrotors]

^ ok...

any thoughts to why the guy from PWC says: "I would start with the 5 and 3mm spacers."

 

[jEt_jAk]

I think it makes more difference on the skis. For the jetboats most guys run all 3.

 

[2kwik4u]

I ran all 3 stock spacers for 2 full seasons.

Just took the red one out at the beginning of this season. Saw MAYBE 50-100rpm increase on the top end. Slightly less hookup while tubing and turning in general. Basically no change unless you're paying DAMN close attention to how your boat is running.

Those spacers are EXTREMELY fine tuning on a boat. Boats are big, heavy, and slow compared to the skis, so they just don't react as fast to any change when compared to the skis

 

[Canuckjetboater]

I think it makes more difference on the skis. For the jetboats most guys run all 3.

@jEt_jAk ......basically have same boat as yours (mine is a 2020 SX195) I run most of the time around 5200 RPMs. What ring or mm would you recommend for that? Thanks!

 

[jEt_jAk]

Do you mean 7200? I would suggest running all 3 spacers.

 

[adamsrotors]

I'm running all 3

 

[Chris D]

All 3.

 

[S1LV3R4D0]

All 3 here for over a year now and no cavitation pulling wakeboarders and tubes. Lost a little on the top end but meh, im not drag racing so no big loss. Itll get up and go when i need her to.

 

[ScottS]

I am running all three. From the stock cone it seems more sluggish but maybe more torque in the early cool morning temps? I have other issues I am addressing though. Being in Utah at elevations between 5,000' ASL and 6,400' ASL the stock prop isn't effective and my RPM's have been limited to about 6000 in most applications as the Summer heat has set in. Early season I was getting up around 7200 RPM.

Just switched to a high altitude tuned (5500') Solas impeller from Impros.com last night but have yet to test. If I am unhappy with the performance after testing the new impeller, I may play around with taking out all of the rings to bring it closer to stock and see how I like it.

 

[adamsrotors]

check your wear ring before anything else...everyone always forgets that. it was my core issue the whole time.

 

[ScottS]

check your wear ring before anything else...everyone always forgets that. it was my core issue the whole time.

Is there a good thread you could point to that would be most beneficial for troubleshooting this? No finding much on a quick forum search other than some comments referencing the wear ring. My boat only has about 50 hours on it Thanks!

This is the best writeup I have seen that may address it, but I am headed to the dentist and will review it later. Even though it is for a twin engine model.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/2015-242-s-impellers-and-wear-rings-replacement.18767/

 

[adamsrotors]

just pull it and sent it to impros.
my impeller was chewed up, but the ring was way out of spec and gouged up from debris.
they swapped it out for a stainless aftermarket one, so now I'm bulletproof.

 

[BrandonG]

check your wear ring before anything else...everyone always forgets that. it was my core issue the whole time.

Can you explain what the wear ring is, what it looks like ect? I'm a noob lol

 

[adamsrotors]

the impeller spins within it. requires extremely tight tolerances.
just pull the impeller and send the housing with the wear ring to them, with your new impeller before you install it.

 

[BrandonG]

I searched on google and it looks like the wear ring is the housing isn't it? or is it a serviceable sleeve that goes inside the housing?

 

[ScottS]

I searched on google and it looks like the wear ring is the housing isn't it? or is it a serviceable sleeve that goes inside the housing?

@BrandonG I believe that it is a stainless steel sleeve that is pressed into the impeller housing :

Housing, Impeller

6ET-51312-00-00 6ET-51312-10-00

Blow-up Diagram: 2017 Yamaha AR195 (RP1800AS) Jet Unit 1 | Babbitts Yamaha Partshouse

However, on the parts blowup diagram below, it isn't called out separately. So I am not sure how it is serviced. My understanding is that Yamaha installs a stainless steel sleeve that can swell and mess with tolerances. Some have had Poly/Plastic sleeves installed that require periodic replacement. Either way, you can check the tolerances yourself between the leading edge of the impeller and the side of the housing. I cannot remember what the clearance is, hopefully, someone else pipes in. At the end of the day though, get a flashlight and see what you can see by just lifting up the gate and looking back there. If everything looks smooth and uniform, you may be good to go.

Pulling the pump and impeller is really pretty easy if you want to get in there. Just remove the linkage for the throttle (2 bolts) and the steering (1 bolt with a nylon lock nut.). Then remove the 4 bolts at the corners of the pump housing. Pull off the pump and gate assembly and set it aside. Then remove the two bolts at the top of the Impeller housing that goes into the transom plate. You may need a screwdriver or small pry bar to remove the impeller housing. Then just pull it out and visually inspect it and gauge it if you feel necessary - note that the impeller and the drive shaft will come out with the impeller housing. This is fine. Also, remember to ensure you do not lose the two small studs that help align the sections of the housing to one another. If things look awry or are way out of tolerance, you can send it off to Impros for a refresh. But as they are busy right now, I am not sure how quick their turn around is.

*Edit: Corrected reference to throttle and steering connections as well as noting that the impeller and driveshaft come out with the impeller housing.

 

[2kwik4u]

@ScottS That's a great explanation.

Any word on if your repitched impeller worked out? Water tested yet?

 

[BrandonG]

Awesome, thanks for the explanation @ScottS ! I don't think my boat has any issues with it but it seems like something I should be mindful of I think.

I do and always have experienced a fair bit of cavitation on hard acceleration when the boat is loaded heavy or getting someone up on a wakeboard, Im wondering if the Lucky 13 would be of some help?