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Yamaha NanoXcell hull repair, Help !

Lowstar

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#1
I’ve watched more YouTube videos and read more articles on the differences and repairs of Yamaha’s NANO hulls that my head is ready to explode ! It seams that everyone has there own theory and now I’m more confused than ever.
I was hoping for some solid answers from you guys, type of resin, special prep or steps, type of fiberglass mat to use, special paint (not gelcoat ).
Thanks in advance
 

Beachbummer

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#2
Suggestions will depend on details of the problem you are trying to repair. What problem are you having?
 

swatski

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#3
I’ve watched more YouTube videos and read more articles on the differences and repairs of Yamaha’s NANO hulls that my head is ready to explode ! It seams that everyone has there own theory and now I’m more confused than ever.
I was hoping for some solid answers from you guys, type of resin, special prep or steps, type of fiberglass mat to use, special paint (not gelcoat ).
Thanks in advance
I believe @Cobra Jet Steering LLC has a way to fix those, he seems to be doing it with all his nano skis.

 

swatski

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#5

Lowstar

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#6
My son decided to use one of my jet skis to stop the ski he was driving, haa family what would we do without them ? Haha
I looked from the inside and I couldn’t see any through damage and non of the area feels soft. The main crack is about 3 inches long and another one below it about one inch long. I know the basics of fiberglassing but from what I’ve read so far the nanoxcell resin is different in that it uses like a talc that when you sand it it releases an oil that makes a good bond difficult when applying the new mat. Some say to wipe the oils away with like a naphtha or an mek solvent before applying the new mat and resin. Then I’m thinking will the solvent soak into the hull material and weaken it ? I think I’m over thinking this whole process.
Here are some pics, thanks again for jumping in so quickly. E669D074-493B-4061-A382-F9528DD75A80.jpeg 87F46A93-35CF-4DBF-98B6-24961361845A.jpeg D89F0FE7-3FCA-4EE5-9674-097E70EC07AE.jpeg ABC0A64D-0D63-4D64-82AF-A27796F7810D.jpeg B8143683-3CF2-4E43-9243-3961A3FA26E9.jpeg F967C2E1-54B4-4F0B-BD3C-FA1C560D1453.jpeg 3612EDA2-C4BE-4AC0-97BE-B4F5CC99D437.jpeg DF98EF86-DE71-46A0-BCDF-BF8AA532C034.jpeg
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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#7
The epoxy is a 3 to 1 and the glass is non talcum powder mat sewn to cloth.
You have to sand the damaged area and dry it really good.
I use a wet vac with a special attachment made from a foam beer can insulator Yea a little ingenuity saves a lot of time and money. The foam can insulator changes shape and holds to contours staying attached to the area when the vac is on. Just don't make it too long or it will shut itself.
I also add color to the resin when I mix it. After cleaning the area and sanding it I fill the deep parts with very small pieces of mat and then I use pre cut pieces of the mat and cloth placed on wax paper. I place that on a flat board to support it while I wet it down with resin.
Once it is wet I lift the wax paper and place the wet glass cloth etc on the place I am repairing.
I then use a plastic Bondo spreader and draw it over the wax paper working out all the air and pushing in the resin so it gets in deep, I tape the wax paper in place and remove it the following day.
Then sand and finish the area using fiberglass Bondo if needed.
When the surface is ready, get the h v l p gun out and spray on your epoxy paint finish.
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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#8
This is where I purchase my supplies Fiberglass Coatings | eBay Stores they have 3 physical locations , The one in St Pete is close by so I go and pick up what I need however you can order on line also.
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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#10
Just to remove any water from the damaged area, don't use M E K I love that for glass but you are working with laminating epoxy , you can also use a hair dryer to warm the area and drive out water, do not use a heat gun as it may damage the area if you get it too hot.
I use A small palm sander with 60 or 80 grit to prep the surface for the repair.
When sanding, first place baby powder on your arms neck and chest area, I also wear a thin nylon jacket to try to keep the stuff from getting on me because after you sand that crap you will itch.
Wear a respirators or at least a dust mask to keep it out of your lungs. Cover your eyes with safety goggles. Wear a good hat or cover your hair with a scarf, old T shirt or something to keep that dust out of your hair.
When you are done sanding, to remove the dust from your skin first take a cold shower to close your pours and use shampoo to soap up with, then using a flat butter knife go over your arms legs etc with the flat edge of the knife in only one direction similar to shaving so that you remove the glass dust and not push it in your pours.
Then take a hot shower to get what you can out of your pours and off your skin, And have fun sleeping. I use sun burn spray for the remaining itch from the glass powder.
DO NOT throw the clothes you used in the laundry or you will probably have to change your name and move to another country. Use clothes that you can throw away after you do this even if you wash them by hand you will never get the dust out completely. haa I am itching just thinking about this!
I have a designated thin nylon jacket that I wear when I sand glass or epoxy, I even tape the cuffs tight on the sleeves because your hands are making all the dust so it goes straight down your sleeves.
honestly If you have insurance you would do better to have the hull fixed by a pro and not do it yourself. I owned a paint, body , auto repair and welding shop many years ago and I hate doing glass work so I know you will not enjoy this and when all is said and done with no experience it will probably end up being an obvious repair especially where yours is damaged , The old saying do it right the first time and move on.
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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#11
As far as the talcum thing I do not believe the original glass in the hull has any talcum powder in it and that is why you need to use the non talcum powder glass and mat sewn together It is made for epoxy . Talcum powder is used in the manufacturing of fiberglass matt to hold the fibers together, So with none of that involved they sew the fibers to a fiberglass cloth for epoxy applications.
If you want to clean the hull I use denatured alcohol I also use it to clean up the epoxy since it cuts it better than lacquer thinner or M E K. And M E K is seriously hazardous as it denatured alcohol to you if you get a lot of exposure to it.
 
Last edited:

Lowstar

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#12
Man you paint a hell of a picture, now I’m starting to itch, I think I’ll get an estimate and see what the cost is and then go from there. I know I can do the job I’ve been a mechanic all my life and have worked with fiberglass when I was young and have done carbon fiber work while I was in the Navy working on FA -18 s but at this point in my life I can afford to pick some of the battles I wish to fight haha and getting all itchy and making a big mess in my garage might not be one of them. I’ll keep you up on which path I chose. I’m hopeful the cost will be in the 500 dollar range. Thanks for all your input.
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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#13
Sorry ,Just giving it some reality.
I hate doing glass work myself but it's just how I do things.
Old habits are hard to change.
I raised 4 kids on a cops salary when I was a detective sgt my base pay was only $18,600 when I first started the base pay was around 10k So I worked in my shop to pay the bills and make what I needed like a boat or a dune buggy or motorcycle .
Today I write a check for anything I want but I still hate paying someone for things I can do myself so I get it.
 
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