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Yamaha sx230 : Intermediate bearing replacement. HELP!!!

123abc

Jet Boat Lover
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
70
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2005
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
23
Hi. If this isn't in the best forum for replys, please let me know! Thx.

2005 sx230. Bad vibration/noise at 5-9,000 rpm. I highly suspect intermediate shaft bearing (forward bearing?) where grease goes. We have never had a good feel for properly grease gunning this stupid thing and now I've read a tone more here researching our problem. I think we've been way over-greasing it and maybe blew seal. Pretty sure the problem isn't the pump bearings because we've replaced each side on those also and know the look and feel. We pulled the pump and bearings look good, well, "OK" I'd say - some discoloration of grease but not like when it went bad (only water in the cone seal at that time). So, we are planning to remove the inter. bearing housing and replace, unless someone tells me to check something else.

I have some specific question - I have read a ton here and on the "other" yamaha site on this, so trying to clear up some things.

1. Shims. When we unbolt and move the engine forward to get at the bearings, can someone explain the shims and how we make sure the engine sits back right when reassembling? I have read that one can unbolt either from the hull (two bolts each) or from the mounts (1 bolt each), but can this avoid the shim issue? Also, are there shims elsewhere - other than engine mounts? How difficult is it to mark them and get back properly?

2. Pulling the bearings/housing. Is this difficult and are special tools needed? Do I need a bearing press for this like the impeller bearing?

3. When looking from the back of the boat down the pump shaft "tunnel" where jey shaft removed, there is a white (looks like some sort of plastic or polymer) tube end with screws holding it in where the shaft enters the hull. On the starboard side (one with the problem) the outer part of this facing the back is gouged up pretty badly. Does this matter? What is this part? Does it seal the hull from water? Does it have anything to do with seal on the bearings (doesn't look like it does to me)?

4. Can someone find a link to a thread explaining the whole bearing replacement process? I have looked for hours, found some info but not enough to get the guts to tackle the job!

5. What part(s) do I need to order for this bearing/housing?

Also, is there any way to confirm this bearing is the issue? Can I run it in the driveway with the jet shaft/impeller out and listen? Thx.

Thanks much for any help on this!
 
I have same issue, I have to pull my port side, looking for answers
 
the bearing carrier is one piece often the bolts are tough to get out after years of being installed, Not sure what plastic part you are seeing, and if you mark each set of shims in a plastic bag so you know where they go back like right front left front etc you should be ok The picture is of a 1800 engine part that separated it was supposed to be all together but over greasing it separated the rubber from the housing and that destroyed the bearing I believe your setup is similar
 

Attachments

  • Yamaha driveshaft seal and bearing seperated from housing 001.jpg
    Yamaha driveshaft seal and bearing seperated from housing 001.jpg
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how do you know this isn't cavitation? do you get the same noise on the hose or have your tried to pull your impeller shaft and run the engine to isolate where it's coming from?
 
Hi. If this isn't in the best forum for replys, please let me know! Thx.

2005 sx230. Bad vibration/noise at 5-9,000 rpm. I highly suspect intermediate shaft bearing (forward bearing?) where grease goes. We have never had a good feel for properly grease gunning this stupid thing and now I've read a tone more here researching our problem. I think we've been way over-greasing it and maybe blew seal. Pretty sure the problem isn't the pump bearings because we've replaced each side on those also and know the look and feel. We pulled the pump and bearings look good, well, "OK" I'd say - some discoloration of grease but not like when it went bad (only water in the cone seal at that time). So, we are planning to remove the inter. bearing housing and replace, unless someone tells me to check something else.

I have some specific question - I have read a ton here and on the "other" yamaha site on this, so trying to clear up some things.

1. Shims. When we unbolt and move the engine forward to get at the bearings, can someone explain the shims and how we make sure the engine sits back right when reassembling? I have read that one can unbolt either from the hull (two bolts each) or from the mounts (1 bolt each), but can this avoid the shim issue? Also, are there shims elsewhere - other than engine mounts? How difficult is it to mark them and get back properly?
The 2 stroke boats had more shim points than the 4 stroke as they had a slightly different pump setup that required it. As such, you need to leave the pump in place, move the engine forward, replace whatever is necessary with the intermediate bearing etc. then when you put the motor back, keep the shims right back where they came from. Perhaps mark them 1, 2, 3, 4 etc. OR, if you are able to slide it forward enough and keep them in place, use some modeling clay or something to keep them in place. Putting them back where they were is a good point to start but I don't know if the intermediate bearing setup has shims in it. You may need to square it up with a square to each other just to be sure. For sure, this is important because being a bit off at 10,000 rpm is going to vibrate bad! Honestly, I think you'll be ok if you put the shims right back in place where they were, unless that misalignment is what caused the bearing to go bad in the first place.

2. Pulling the bearings/housing. Is this difficult and are special tools needed? Do I need a bearing press for this like the impeller bearing?
I haven't taken it apart, but I would order the bearing first, which will help you see physically how it goes in. Also, if you need a press, there are a lot of ways to make DIY bearing presses and some are horrid but some are genious. Honestly, there are probably places near you like some car shops or machine shops that would press it out for 5 bucks or nothing at all. The part will be out of the boat anyways, so it's not like you need to drag the boat there!
As far as boats required, I would imagine nothing special to unbolt things. Sockets, open end wrenches, screw drivers, that kinda stuff.


3. When looking from the back of the boat down the pump shaft "tunnel" where jey shaft removed, there is a white (looks like some sort of plastic or polymer) tube end with screws holding it in where the shaft enters the hull. On the starboard side (one with the problem) the outer part of this facing the back is gouged up pretty badly. Does this matter? What is this part? Does it seal the hull from water? Does it have anything to do with seal on the bearings (doesn't look like it does to me)?
You can of course send us a picture but the white plastic part isn't a seal, it's more like a housing/tube for all the other stuff. If, of course it's what I think you're looking at.

4. Can someone find a link to a thread explaining the whole bearing replacement process? I have looked for hours, found some info but not enough to get the guts to tackle the job!
I don't recall seeing a how:to kinda deal. Post pictures as you do this and put one together for the FAQ!

5. What part(s) do I need to order for this bearing/housing?
I would take the intermediate bearing housing etc out first to examine it and know what is actually going on before ordering parts. Sometimes if it is generic bearings with numbers stamped on the sides you can just order the bearing online or car parts stores for like a buck.

Also, is there any way to confirm this bearing is the issue? Can I run it in the driveway with the jet shaft/impeller out and listen? Thx.
You can pull the shaft out of the pump and set to the side, and then run the engine ON THE HOSE!
I would be careful because is something IS screwy with it, I would shut it down as soon as you know something is wrong with the shaft and pump off/out so that it doesn't cause anything else to be screwed up.


Thanks much for any help on this!
 
the bearing carrier is one piece often the bolts are tough to get out after years of being installed, Not sure what plastic part you are seeing, and if you mark each set of shims in a plastic bag so you know where they go back like right front left front etc you should be ok The picture is of a 1800 engine part that separated it was supposed to be all together but over greasing it separated the rubber from the housing and that destroyed the bearing I believe your setup is similar
Good picture!
Doesn't look like it would necessarily be press fit in there but certainly a tight fit. It has a flange on one side so that will help with alignment.
 
Here is a write-up that I did for my LS2000 and I doubt the procedure is much different: https://jetboaters.net/threads/changing-the-intermediate-bearing-assesmbly-water-leak-fix.450/
- for the shims, they have a V-shape in them and I used a marker to shade the section of fiberglass so when I put the shim back, it was put back just like how it was originally
- i had my bearings removed and repressed by a shop. Some have bought a press from harbor freight but to me the process of getting it exact would have been to difficult for my comfort.
- given that the plastic liner is gouged up, your problem may be more due to some line, rope or other and/or cavitation. I would check this real carefully. I only replaced my bearing housing since they were leaking water into the engine compartment.
- for parts, check out the schematic on boats.net. That will help with parts that you are looking to replace
 
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