You can make up something like this to help you reach those hard to reach places in your engine bay.
I have monkey arms but they’re not long enough to reach all the way to the back of the engine bay! There’s no where to support yourself when you boom out to get to the oil filters or intermediate bearings.
I bought a 2X8 and some 3&1/2” deck screws and threw this together today. This gives you some place to put your hands and a place to lay your body when you’re reaching into the engine bay, and your not putting weight onto the coil packs and injectors….
@drewkaree @WiskyDan @Ericd @Can0n11 @Dixemon
Dimensions;
32&1/2” cross board
7&1/2” drops
2&1/2” top...
I like what
@steveinmd says about removing the hose at the intermediate bearing and pumping out all the old grease until fresh grease comes out.
I’d suggest that once you have removed the house / tubing from the bearing, use a bright light and a piece of line trimmer / weed wacker line to stick down inside the bearing to see just how much grease is in the bearing before adding any grease.
My boat did not come with the remote greasing location so I apply grease at the zerk fitting (where your grease gun attaches and has the little check valve) that is screwed into the bearing housing. My manual was specific about the amount of grease to be added to each intermediate bearing in CC’s at the 10 hour and subsequent 100 hour intervals so I attached my grease gun to a 60 CC irrigation syringe I got off of amazon to see just how many CC’s my grease gun put out per pump then added that amount to each housing, then checked the amount of grease using the piece of line trimmer line mentioned above.
As important as not over greasing initially is leaving room for the grease to expand as it gets hot. It sounds like the remote greasing hose gives a place for expansion but pressing the ball check valve down is a good idea to release excess pressure.
It’s a bit of a pita to get it figured out the first time but there after it will be routine.
