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2006 AR 230 should we buy?

Austin Ramsey

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@Austin Ramsey There is a post above by @swatski linking to a couple of threads where these cables are discussed/purchased and installed. The end broke off your steering cable, it should all be one assembly, and come in one piece, replacing the cable may take a little de-construction to gain access. Mr.@swatski posted a link to that also. I do not know if anyone might be able to weld that cable end back on, depends on the properties of the material. I am pretty sure no one would recommend it. A weld when done right is stronger than the material around it. It is your choice and a lot less work.
A friend did mention welding it but I didn't know if that was a good option or not. He said he could "probably" do it but I didn't know if I should risk that or not
 

zipper

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@Austin Ramsey Just throwing ideas your way, bare with me. If no welding or complete cable replacement, I believe it is S.S. and might be difficult to do but here it is...Use a die and cut threads on the smooth section to match the threads on the other section, then find/make a threaded standoff/collar to pull/hold the two pieces together. Replacing with new is the best option for peace of mind, but living on a farm for 26 years puts me in the try repair first vs. replacement category. But then again I would not want the repair to break under heavy cornering loads. Just my $.02.
 

swatski

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@Austin Ramsey Just throwing ideas your way, bare with me. If no welding or complete cable replacement, I believe it is S.S. and might be difficult to do but here it is...Use a die and cut threads on the smooth section to match the threads on the other section, then find/make a threaded standoff/collar to pull/hold the two pieces together. Replacing with new is the best option for peace of mind, but living on a farm for 26 years puts me in the try repair first vs. replacement category. But then again I would not want the repair to break under heavy cornering loads. Just my $.02.
How can I give it "creative" AND "love it"??!!

Of course I agree - long range - need to replace it. This has been very well documented here, you are not alone @Austin Ramsey !

--
 

Scuba_ref

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Not sure of the history of your boat, but if you do replace the cable then you might consider replacing both at the same time. We have the same year boat and I am replacing both of mine in the coming week as a maintenance item. These cables do tend to lose their slickness for smooth steering over time - I know some people set up gravity feed systems to lube the cables but that really only delays the need to replace.
 

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@swatski I know, just thinking way outside the box with that one, after I posted about cutting threads i went to my boat to check that theory out and concluded you could not cut enough threads to engage enough of that collar before it hits the outer sleeve of the cable, 3/4s of an inch. Ya I am a cheap bastard, but I would buy a new cable/s we are not talking manure spreader repairs here.
 
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Austin Ramsey

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I guess I could just go ahead and replace them both, I don't know if the one that didn't break needs to be replaced or not. May be a stupid question but by replacing the cable does that come with the rod that is broken off in this picture too or do I needn't to get that as well? IMG_3162.JPG
 

Austin Ramsey

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I guess I could just go ahead and replace them both, I don't know if the one that didn't break needs to be replaced or not. May be a stupid question but by replacing the cable does that come with the rod that is broken off in this picture too or do I needn't to get that as well? View attachment 55203
Never mind I read back over previous posts and got the answer that it's all in one! Sorry
 

zipper

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@Austin Ramsey The cable comes as one assembly, the connector piece with the stop nut you will reuse and will thread onto your new cable, if that is what you are asking.http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/50039ef2f870021f60a11605/steering here is an exploded diagram of the steering assembly. In @swatski s link above it refers to Teleflex the manufacturer and buying direct to cut out middle man, Yamaha, markup. In this link look for items 10, 14 and 21 I believe that is what you are asking.
 

aldo.raine

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I'm currently talking to the guy about this boat in TN. He is saying that he replaced the starter relay and had it running on a hose for 5 mins and the engine just died again. It won't turnover or anything. He says that he thinks it is hydrolocked.

What would be a fair price for the boat considering everything everyone has said and that I would have to swap the engine?
 

Betik

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it sounds to me that is is worth nothing really. I asked my local dealer in Dallas and he said that on average a new engine is a $12,000 job.
 

aldo.raine

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Yeah, I talked to a dealer today. He said that it would be $18.5k to replace the engine but that is because they have to use brand new parts from Yamaha. I'd probably go with an SBT engine myself. Still up in the air on it though.
 

Betik

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isnt there any boats here on the forum that you like ? I have seen plenty of them on the 18k range that seem in very good shape.
I am not sure what you are planing on doing with the boat, but I bought mine so we can go to the Bimini trip and I hate to such a trip with replaced or questionable engine .
 

aldo.raine

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I haven't seen any near me in that range.
 

zipper

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If he hydrolocked it on the hose, he does not know the sequence of engine on water on etc. Too many issues with it before and now that he turned a p.o.s. into a worse P.O.S. offer him $1 to take it off his hands. There are nicer boats out there, be patient, this seller is difficult to trust based on the pics I have seen. My $.02
 

aldo.raine

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I'll trust the experts on this. I have no experience with these boats. I just thought if I could get in the boat for less than $10k including buying a new engine that would be a good deal.
 

zipper

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It might be if you could get it all working reliably for that price.
 

aldo.raine

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I quizzed him about the start sequence. Does this sound correct?

Here is his response:

"When you are in the water, it automatically picks up the water. When not in the water, you can hook a garden hose up to it. Then you have to tourn on the howe and make sure it has water flowing through it befor you start it. Normal operation in the water without any extra steps. Just like a jet ski. Start and go"
 

Scuba_ref

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I quizzed him about the start sequence. Does this sound correct?

Here is his response:

"When you are in the water, it automatically picks up the water. When not in the water, you can hook a garden hose up to it. Then you have to tourn on the howe and make sure it has water flowing through it befor you start it. Normal operation in the water without any extra steps. Just like a jet ski. Start and go"
He had a 50/50 chance of getting it right and he got it wrong. Engine on first then start the hose...When shutting it down then it is hose off then engine.
 

swatski

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I quizzed him about the start sequence. Does this sound correct?

Here is his response:

"When you are in the water, it automatically picks up the water. When not in the water, you can hook a garden hose up to it. Then you have to tourn on the howe and make sure it has water flowing through it befor you start it. Normal operation in the water without any extra steps. Just like a jet ski. Start and go"
The problem is, when sitting in a lake water will only run through the cooling system when the engine revs. On a hose you have positive pressure. But I think it is still very rare to hydrolock on a hose...

--
 

aldo.raine

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He had a 50/50 chance of getting it right and he got it wrong. Engine on first then start the hose...When shutting it down then it is hose off then engine.
Dang. Thanks man.

So the water was forced into the engine and hydrolocked it once it was started?

Im out. I'll keep hunting for another Yamaha. I could deal with replacing one engine but I'm not up for possibly replacing both.
 
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