2016 Yamaha AR190 Dual Battery Install -- How to isolate Factory Stereo Power to New House Battery?

[chhcAR190]

Hello Fellow Jetboaters -- Perhaps I missed the link or other forum, but I wasn't able to locate how folks have isolated the factory electric components (specifically power wires) to the Starter vs House batteries? I would like to isolate just the starter power wires to the starter battery. Or at the very least move the stereo power wires from the factory starter battery run to the new house battery. Has anyone done this on their own and could provide direction? (I have all the other components ready to go, Dual bank Marinco battery switch, DVSR, etc)

MUCH APPRECIATED!

 

[WickedPorter]

I've got an isolated/dedicated stereo battery; I ran a new pair of 10ga wires and hooked it up directly to it. I didn't want to mess with the factory wiring. Wasn't difficult to run the wire, just ran it under the fuel hatch... a cable fishing tool of some sort helps a lot. Always make sure any new power runs are properly fused.

 

[chhcAR190]

OK -- Thanks for your advice -- I was leaning towards that option, and now that solidifies it!

 

[WickedPorter]

OK -- Thanks for your advice -- I was leaning towards that option, and now that solidifies it!

Another positive... when you start your engine(s), radio keeps on a-goin' !

 

[chhcAR190]

Nice! Great point! My wife will think I'm a genius.. lol. Did you happen to install a fuse between each battery terminal and the DVSR or power switch? I noticed some have used a 150amp fuse...and some haven't...

 

[WickedPorter]

Nice! Great point! My wife will think I'm a genius.. lol. Did you happen to install a fuse between each battery terminal and the DVSR or power switch? I noticed some have used a 150amp fuse...and some haven't...

I have a fuse for each positive power cable appropriately sized for each device powered by the battery (3 fuses: one for head unit and one for each of two amplifiers). Here is a good guideline article on fusing: http://www.caraudiohelp.com/newsletter/fuse_size.html

If you're just hooking up a head unit, one 5A fuse on the positive wire within a foot of the battery should be good. Your head unit harness may also have a fuse on one more more of the power wires ... but I'd still put one near the battery as well.

ETA: I use circuit breakers on mine that I manually trip after each outing in order to cut power to everything. I'm guessing there are other switches that can be used as well.

 

[HybridSS]

Look for the fuse holder near the battery. On mine this powered everything other than starter, engine management and the main gauges. Just take that terminal going to the fuse and put it on the new 2nd battery positive terminal. I tested mine to be sure it was correct. With that fused terminal removed and only the large main lug on the battery you can still start and still have all gauges.. But nothing else worked. From what i could tell that small fused block powered the stereo, blower, horn, bilge, NAV lights and courtesy lights. Once moved over to the newly installed second battery you have nothing to worry about from those items...which is essentially everything except you starter, ecu and gauges. Just the way you would want it. You can leave your bilge on or lights on too long...just like you can with the stereo. I wanted my main battery solely for starting.

 

[Jgorm]

I always hook up a dual battery setup with a relay to connect the positive to both batteries. I use a 3 way switch to give me the option of off, on with key on, or on. I use 2-4g depending on my needs. This also allows you to connect both batteries for starting if the starting battery is weak. Normally I leave the switch on "auto" (key on connected). This keeps both batteries charged but disconnect them as soon as you turn the key off. I use similar solenoids to this. https://smile.amazon.com/Support-Heavy-Split-Charge-Relay/dp/B012N09BFE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495375887&sr=8-1&keywords=100a+relay