Need Help on Trailer Brakes

[Matt Phillips]

I agree. it's probably a bad ground, or switch. Taking the brakes off the trailer really isn't an option as if you get in an accident and don't have brakes on that trailer....it's your fault.

 

[UFfitz56]

Sorry for thread jacking but is this also the case on the single axle 190 trailers? I just bought a brand new SX190 and the trailer did this from day one when backing up. I just put in the lockout key with some duct tape when I get to the ramp. Didn't even think about an electrical issue which would be annoying on a brand new trailer! Thanks for any info couldn't find much about the 19' trailers.

 

[marcham]

Sorry for thread jacking but is this also the case on the single axle 190 trailers? I just bought a brand new SX190 and the trailer did this from day one when backing up. I just put in the lockout key with some duct tape when I get to the ramp. Didn't even think about an electrical issue which would be annoying on a brand new trailer! Thanks for any info couldn't find much about the 19' trailers.

On a new trailer, I'd suspect the tow vehicle as the source of the problem first. Have you checked your pin-out voltages while the vehicle is in reverse?

 

[UFfitz56]

^Thanks will check that first!

 

[waternutt]

If I was boating in salt water, I would definitely try that washing down routine. Salt water is brutal.
Follow up question though: your trailer guy suggested using dawn in place of salt away, and just the flushing with the dawn soap solution would counter act the salt water ? Sounds nice and simple, which appeals to me.

That was my understanding. Just water with some Dawn dish soap...I may try the dish soap if Salt-Away gets to be too $$$.

 

[motomandan]

Guys so I went to the ramp this Saturday (Salt Water) and the brakes kept locking in reverse. Won't even let me move the damn thing at all! So I had my wife carefully hold the key in the key slot until they freed up backing (I was driving at like 1mph carefully since she was back there holding it. Super dangerous I think. A guy at the boat ramp told me that all trailer brakes get ruined coz of salt water and he suggested for me to completely take them off. He said that's what he did to his trailer brakes but then I am putting such a load on my truck brakes, I don;t really want to do that! I fully take care of spraying all kinds of anti-corrosion stuff on the calipers and brakes religiously like a lunatic!

Can I get some advise here? What can I do to fix this issue? I boat on the gulf in 100% salt water and I pressure wash the trailer underside, calipers, brakes etc everytime after we go boating and spray lubricant/anti-corrosion stuff. If the brakes are actually ruined, isn't it super dangerous since they could lock up going down the freeway?! Yikes?! Or am I overthinking this? My tuck has the 7 pin plug in so I use the adapter. Trailer is for 21ft AR210 2018 so not that old.

With a multimeter make sure you have 12volts at the Blue wire when in reverse, If not the bypass solenoid will not open. It is not the actuator that is the problem.

 

[Foobar]

1. Guy at the boat ramp is an idiot.
2. Guy at the boat ramp is going to get himself or someone else killed.
3. Most states have laws that a trailer over 3000 lbs must have functioning brakes.
4. Emphasis on boat ramp guy being an idiot.

Glad you asked here and did not follow boat ramp guy's advice. Clean all of your connection points. Might as well service the brakes while you are at it.

 

[Ronnie]

Replacing the solenoid is a PiTA, I simply manually lock out the surge brakes from engaging with a magnetic “D” key that someone posted a pic of above. One alternative is to tape a nickel into the slot instead.


If you remove you brakes and it causes and accident and / or injuries, I can guarantee you that everyone will be blaming you not the guy that gave you the advice.

 

[Captbob]

I had that problem a couple of times. The first time it was a loose wire at the tow vehicle plug. Check for current when in reverse on the tow vehicle male connection. If current is going back to the solenoid, then you probable need a new solenoid. I had that happen also. Get someone to put the tow vehicle in reverse while you put your ear near the solenoid . You should hear a click. No click, you need a solenoid and it is a PITA but with some patience, it can be done. It requires the brake system to be blead after replacing the solenoid.

 

[isitsummeryet]

I had that problem a couple of times. The first time it was a loose wire at the tow vehicle plug. Check for current when in reverse on the tow vehicle male connection. If current is going back to the solenoid, then you probable need a new solenoid. I had that happen also. Get someone to put the tow vehicle in reverse while you put your ear near the solenoid . You should hear a click. No click, you need a solenoid and it is a PITA but with some patience, it can be done. It requires the brake system to be blead after replacing the solenoid.

Ok thank you. Very useful information

 

[mrdubean1]

Does your trailer come with this piece? If you insert the small, partially oval metal piece into the hole, it unlocks the reverse, and you can drive in reverse, and still have brakes when driving forward. Obviously, until you get your reverse lights repaired.
I agree with others, I think its important to drive with trailer brakes if equipped.
Does anyone ever unplug before dropping into the ramp? If so, attaching the metal piece into the hole is the only option...The dealer told me to leave everything plugged in, since the lights are water tight sealed. I dont know...

 

[Troch1]

Does your trailer come with this piece? If you insert the small, partially oval metal piece into the hole, it unlocks the reverse, and you can drive in reverse, and still have brakes when driving forward. Obviously, until you get your reverse lights repaired.
I agree with others, I think its important to drive with trailer brakes if equipped.
Does anyone ever unplug before dropping into the ramp? If so, attaching the metal piece into the hole is the only option...The dealer told me to leave everything plugged in, since the lights are water tight sealed. I dont know...

I’m pretty sure the actuator will not work in forward or reverse with the key in...

 

[Neutron]

I’m pretty sure the actuator will not work in forward or reverse with the key in...

Correct it is a lock-out preventing the brake piston from being pushed, which happens in reverse as well as when your tow vehicle slows down

 

[isitsummeryet]

Yes I am aware of the key. That's how I got out of the jam on the boat ramp since I was blocking others and my trailer wont move. I had my wife hold the key in (since I had no zip tie or wasn't prepared for this issue) and I slowly backed the boat until it was in a smooth rythm and she could let go. I drove at 1mph or so but it's still a dangerous thing to do. I have ordered the magnetic key thingi.

OK THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!!!
However when I opened the black cap on my trailer I saw a lot of rust on top of the cylinder where you put the brake fluid! Problem is that this cap is very lose by design and designed to pop off just by fingers (no tools needed). So everytime you wash your trailer or it gets subjected to salt, water gets underneath there! Guys please start opening this cap periodically and checking for rust. Spray whatever corrosion prvention stuff you use but dont leave it bare. I had no clue! Its rusted beyond beleif! Here is the pic. Sorry I didnt take a pic at the trailer so I am using @mrdubean1 pic to show what I am talking about!

 

[granpachuck]

Yes I am aware of the key. That's how I got out of the jam on the boat ramp since I was blocking others and my trailer wont move. I had my wife hold the key in (since I had no zip tie or wasn't prepared for this issue) and I slowly backed the boat until it was in a smooth rythm and she could let go. I drove at 1mph or so but it's still a dangerous thing to do. I have ordered the magnetic key thingi.

OK THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!!!
However when I opened the black cap on my trailer I saw a lot of rust on top of the cylinder where you put the brake fluid! Problem is that this cap is very lose by design and designed to pop off just by fingers (no tools needed). So everytime you wash your trailer or it gets subjected to salt, water gets underneath there! Guys please start opening this cap periodically and checking for rust. Spray whatever corrosion prvention stuff you use but dont leave it bare. I had no clue! Its rusted beyond beleif! Here is the pic. Sorry I didnt take a pic at the trailer so I am using @mrdubean1 pic to show what I am talking about!

I am guessing you may need to bleed the entire system. There is a great video on youtube for how to do this, I posted it recently on another trailer thread. I will try to find it. It isnt hard to do. Search some of my recent posts, or @Neutron , he posted some great info on these brakes.

 

[granpachuck]

Yes I am aware of the key. That's how I got out of the jam on the boat ramp since I was blocking others and my trailer wont move. I had my wife hold the key in (since I had no zip tie or wasn't prepared for this issue) and I slowly backed the boat until it was in a smooth rythm and she could let go. I drove at 1mph or so but it's still a dangerous thing to do. I have ordered the magnetic key thingi.

OK THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!!!
However when I opened the black cap on my trailer I saw a lot of rust on top of the cylinder where you put the brake fluid! Problem is that this cap is very lose by design and designed to pop off just by fingers (no tools needed). So everytime you wash your trailer or it gets subjected to salt, water gets underneath there! Guys please start opening this cap periodically and checking for rust. Spray whatever corrosion prvention stuff you use but dont leave it bare. I had no clue! Its rusted beyond beleif! Here is the pic. Sorry I didnt take a pic at the trailer so I am using @mrdubean1 pic to show what I am talking about!

Let me just add that if I understand your issue, you may be getting rust in the master cylinder, requiring a brake flush, bleed.

 

[waternutt]

I will piggy-back on the need to keep that area clean. Some debris got in my brake lines and prevented the brake pressure from releasing. Long story short, my brakes were dragging and heating up big time. I could feel the heat with my hand a couple inches from the wheel. Luckily I caught it the first time it happened so I did not completely burn up my brakes.

 

[gmtech16450yz]

Or you could just trash the whole garbage surge brake system and go hydraulic over electric.

No more tongue slamming when pulling away from every stoplight, horrible brake actuation, having your trailer brakes drag when going down hills, NO trailer braking while backing down a ramp, or having your brakes locking when backing up. (Think about the way surge brakes work and you'll understand why they drag when you're driving down steep hills and also don't engage when backing down a boat ramp.) I have hydraulic disc brakes on all 4 wheels of my trailer supplied by a hydraulic pump, controlled by a standard in-cab electric brake controller. I even wired up a "electric parking brake" so all 4 wheels on my boat trailer can be locked by the flip of a switch. Works awesome for when I have to get out of the tow vehicle on a boat ramp. Yes it was a fair amount of time and money, and something most of you couldn't or shouldn't do at home, but I don't f around with brakes. Surge brakes on boat trailers are a cheap solution to the legal brake requirement. Even when brand new they don't work that good.

 

[tim h]

salt water is hell on calipers...

 

[isitsummeryet]

Or you could just trash the whole garbage surge brake system and go hydraulic over electric.

No more tongue slamming when pulling away from every stoplight, horrible brake actuation, having your trailer brakes drag when going down hills, NO trailer braking while backing down a ramp, or having your brakes locking when backing up. (Think about the way surge brakes work and you'll understand why they drag when you're driving down steep hills and also don't engage when backing down a boat ramp.) I have hydraulic disc brakes on all 4 wheels of my trailer supplied by a hydraulic pump, controlled by a standard in-cab electric brake controller. I even wired up a "electric parking brake" so all 4 wheels on my boat trailer can be locked by the flip of a switch. Works awesome for when I have to get out of the tow vehicle on a boat ramp. Yes it was a fair amount of time and money, and something most of you couldn't or shouldn't do at home, but I don't f around with brakes. Surge brakes on boat trailers are a cheap solution to the legal brake requirement. Even when brand new they don't work that good.

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Dude how much all this system cost? Jeez I feel like since I bought the boat, apart from the hull and the engines, i've had to replace EVERYTHING stock! Yamaha total value package my ass!