Wear Ring Replacement? Read This!

[Luc Lafreniere]

EVERYONE loves to replace their wear ring because it's a "wear item" as I see noted all the time.

Yes, BRP typically uses a plastic wear ring. Regardless of the reason (there are many claims out there why that is), they can wear out over time.

Rocks, shells, sand, etc. Anything that goes through the pump will go in between the impeller and the wear ring. The impeller is made of stainless steel, the wear ring is made of plastic. The plastic can therefore be gauged, scratched, etc.

If you run your boat in shallow water with lots of pebbles (first of all, stop that, 3ft or more is recommended), then it's more likely you'll wear that ring out faster than most. A SINGLE rock sucking event can be reason to replace your wear ring. Many times, rocks will just go through the impeller. You may hear a short duration rattle and suddenly it stops. A sure sign you sucked a rock up but spit it out.

OK, so, when should you replace it? Well, when it's worn! The service manual indicates that when the gap between the impeller and the wear ring exceeds 0.35 mm (0.0138 in), it's time to replace it. This assumes it's not your impeller that's damaged. A new wear ring with good condition impeller should have a gap of 0 mm to 0.23 mm (0 in to .009 in).

Those gaps are very small because that clearance is what creates the right amount of pump pressure which accelerates your boat. If the gap is too big because of a gauge or scratches, then your boat doesn't create the same pressure. If that's the case, you can suffer loss of acceleration, loss of top speed and poor fuel economy.

My boat is a 2015 model. It's currently 2025 when I'm writing this. I have NEVER needed to replace the wear ring. Why? Because I'm very careful in shallow water and I'm very lucky that my waterways are pristine with no debris. I've lost zero top speed or acceleration. It does not "just wear" normally. It wears because you suck up stuff regularly or a one time event.

Wear rings are very cheap to replace. So if you're in doubt, just replace it. Look up Sea-Doo wear ring replacement videos. There are tons on YouTube.

 

[luisgnecco]

EVERYONE loves to replace their wear ring because it's a "wear item" as I see noted all the time.

Yes, BRP typically uses a plastic wear ring. Regardless of the reason (there are many claims out there why that is), they can wear out over time.

Rocks, shells, sand, etc. Anything that goes through the pump will go in between the impeller and the wear ring. The impeller is made of stainless steel, the wear ring is made of plastic. The plastic can therefore be gauged, scratched, etc.

If you run your boat in shallow water with lots of pebbles (first of all, stop that, 3ft or more is recommended), then it's more likely you'll wear that ring out faster than most. A SINGLE rock sucking event can be reason to replace your wear ring. Many times, rocks will just go through the impeller. You may hear a short duration rattle and suddenly it stops. A sure sign you sucked a rock up but spit it out.

OK, so, when should you replace it? Well, when it's worn! The service manual indicates that when the gap between the impeller and the wear ring exceeds 0.35 mm (0.0138 in), it's time to replace it. This assumes it's not your impeller that's damaged. A new wear ring with good condition impeller should have a gap of 0 mm to 0.23 mm (0 in to .009 in).

Those gaps are very small because that clearance is what creates the right amount of pump pressure which accelerates your boat. If the gap is too big because of a gauge or scratches, then your boat doesn't create the same pressure. If that's the case, you can suffer loss of acceleration, loss of top speed and poor fuel economy.

My boat is a 2015 model. It's currently 2025 when I'm writing this. I have NEVER needed to replace the wear ring. Why? Because I'm very careful in shallow water and I'm very lucky that my waterways are pristine with no debris. I've lost zero top speed or acceleration. It does not "just wear" normally. It wears because you suck up stuff regularly or a one time event.

Wear rings are very cheap to replace. So if you're in doubt, just replace it. Look up Sea-Doo wear ring replacement videos. There are tons on YouTube.

Hello Luc,
We spoke befor , I have the Scarab 195 2017 and I am still having issues with the ignition and when it turns on , shuts off after 10 minutes of running and also losses acceleration. I wanted to ask you if the wear ring could be the problem to loss speed and torque and also the iNR could be malfunctioning. The mechanic checked the sensors, relay, replaced both O2 sensors and nothing. He wants to replace the iNR system which I don't know if would be the solution.
Could you give any advise?
thank you

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Speed and torque can definitely be related to the wear ring. The ring is easily inspected even through the grate. But this would be completely unrelated to your ignition and engine turning off. It's possible you have two different problems, but it sounds like your speed/torque is fine until towards the end when it starts to lose power. If so, then it's not the ring.

Did he connect a computer to check for fault codes? Past ones are still stored in the computer and would be super helpful.

One thing that comes to mind is overheating. How old is your coolant? What type (green or orange)? Or have you checked its specific gravity (aka it's life span)? Is your engine reporting high temps as it's running? You can see that in the settings. I'd recommend you monitor the temperatures to see if they stabilize and at what temp or if it keeps climbing until the engine shuts off.

The iNR would not affect the engine shutting down either. So I don't think that's it.

Also, have you checked spark plugs? Installed correctly? Check your ignition coils to ensure they are not full of corrosion and they are well seated.

Some ideas there. If you respond back, I'd recommend starting a separate thread and see if others can chime in. But if you do, list exactly the symptoms along with exactly what was checked.

 

[luisgnecco]

Speed and torque can definitely be related to the wear ring. The ring is easily inspected even through the grate. But this would be completely unrelated to your ignition and engine turning off. It's possible you have two different problems, but it sounds like your speed/torque is fine until towards the end when it starts to lose power. If so, then it's not the ring.

Did he connect a computer to check for fault codes? Past ones are still stored in the computer and would be super helpful.

One thing that comes to mind is overheating. How old is your coolant? What type (green or orange)? Or have you checked its specific gravity (aka it's life span)? Is your engine reporting high temps as it's running? You can see that in the settings. I'd recommend you monitor the temperatures to see if they stabilize and at what temp or if it keeps climbing until the engine shuts off.

The iNR would not affect the engine shutting down either. So I don't think that's it.

Also, have you checked spark plugs? Installed correctly? Check your ignition coils to ensure they are not full of corrosion and they are well seated.

Some ideas there. If you respond back, I'd recommend starting a separate thread and see if others can chime in. But if you do, list exactly the symptoms along with exactly what was checked.

As always thank you for you response .
The mechanic connected the computer and it showed something related with the inyección , then on the display showed reverse module error , they recalibrated the computer and then it happened again , shuts off after 10 minutes and it didn’t turn back on (like dead)
My coolant is green and is at least 2 years old and is at good level , I guess the next step is replacing the spar plugs and the relays and if doesn’t works he is suggesting replacing the ECU.

 

[luisgnecco]

As always thank you for your response ,

As always thank you for you response .
The mechanic connected the computer and it showed something related with the inyección , then on the display showed reverse module error , they recalibrated the computer and then it happened again , shuts off after 10 minutes and it didn’t turn back on (like dead)
My coolant is green and is at least 2 years old and is at good level , I guess the next step is replacing the spar plugs and the relays and if doesn’t works he is suggesting replacing the ECU.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

inyección = fuel injection I gather lol. My Spanish is not the greatest but Google Translate to the rescue!

Definitely start there. Potentially inspect the fuel injectors. I assume your fuel is in good condition?

It's definitely odd that it shuts off after 10 min.

Green coolant has a max life of 2 years. I would highly recommend replacing it. You can also purchase a cheap hydrometer first and check it to see if it's still good. But in my experience, the green stuff only lasts about two years just like BRP says. If you do replace it, you can purchase the newer orange XPS that has a 5 year life instead of 2. You need to follow proper flushing procedure to rinse out the green coolant before replacing it with orange. But green works fine too as long as it's the right type ethylene glycol 50/50 pre-diluted.

Did you check the temperatures as you ran the engine? Btw, hopefully you're running this in the water for 10 min? Because you shouldn't be running the engine out of water for more than 2, you risk damaging your carbon seal even with exhaust flushing.

It's possible it's the ECU... But that part is above my pay grade.

 

[luisgnecco]

Yes it was in the water and it didn’t turn back on after 2 hours with the codes and the after the reverse module error appeared
Look what I just found , that line is disconnected right?
I am not a mechanic and this is my first boat lol

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

That's an overflow tube. If there's too much coolant, it will spill out of that tube and into your bilge. So it's normal to have it like that.

And all good, we all learned about boats at some point... lol

 

[luisgnecco]

Speed and torque can definitely be related to the wear ring. The ring is easily inspected even through the grate. But this would be completely unrelated to your ignition and engine turning off. It's possible you have two different problems, but it sounds like your speed/torque is fine until towards the end when it starts to lose power. If so, then it's not the ring.

Did he connect a computer to check for fault codes? Past ones are still stored in the computer and would be super helpful.

One thing that comes to mind is overheating. How old is your coolant? What type (green or orange)? Or have you checked its specific gravity (aka it's life span)? Is your engine reporting high temps as it's running? You can see that in the settings. I'd recommend you monitor the temperatures to see if they stabilize and at what temp or if it keeps climbing until the engine shuts off.

The iNR would not affect the engine shutting down either. So I don't think that's it.

Also, have you checked spark plugs? Installed correctly? Check your ignition coils to ensure they are not full of corrosion and they are well seated.

Some ideas there. If you respond back, I'd recommend starting a separate thread and see if others can chime in. But if you do, list exactly the symptoms along with exactly what was checked.

That's an overflow tube. If there's too much coolant, it will spill out of that tube and into your bilge. So it's normal to have it like that.

And all good, we all learned about boats at some point... lol

Lol thank you so much for your help