02 Sportster

[Jtoldski]

I have a 2002 Sea-Doo Sportster with twin 717s. Starboard engine starts but just chugs, no throttle response, choke kills it, restarts but chugs. Rebuilt carb, new stater, new rectifier and new filters, no change just chugs better. Could it be my MPEM. Rotary valve and cover have some wear. Help it's making me nuts. Port engine is a sweetheart never any issues.

 

[14SX190]

Hi,

Welcome to site.

I used to have 1800 Sportster with twin 717 and my XP and GTI were all 717 too.

You'll need to give a little more to help diagnosis it.

In order for Rotary Vavle to be off timing you would of had to take intake off? So let's assume its still set factory
When did problems start?
Who did carb rebuild? Did you use OEM diaphragm with red nipple? Did you check Pop Off pressure? Do you still have grey Tempo Fuel lines?

Have you checked compression. 150 is normal 130 good run bad 90 or less its rebuild time

be very careful with MPEM as they are $$$$.

 

[Beachbummer]

Throttle connected?

I had a twin 717 too, and it was ALWAYS the carbs. (at least for me) The engine is quite simple. I got tired of rebuilding carbs to fail and would buy them new as Mikuni models at around $200 a pop. My Sporster 1800 only had one carb per engine, so that was worthwhile to me.

Sure sounds like the fuel system. (assuming throttle cable is connected and operating carburetor throttle plate) Does it die when you throttle it? It comes OEM with a pulse fuel pump that is now 17 years old. You can try with an electrical pump to test, or swap the pumps to troubleshoot.

Best of luck!

 

[Jtoldski]

Hi,

Welcome to site.

I used to have 1800 Sportster with twin 717 and my XP and GTI were all 717 too.

You'll need to give a little more to help diagnosis it.

In order for Rotary Vavle to be off timing you would of had to take intake off? So let's assume its still set factory
When did problems start?
Who did carb rebuild? Did you use OEM diaphragm with red nipple? Did you check Pop Off pressure? Do you still have grey Tempo Fuel lines?

Have you checked compression. 150 is normal 130 good run bad 90 or less its rebuild time

be very careful with MPEM as they are $$$$.

Yes it is still factory set, this started before I replaced the stater, rectifier and carb rebuild. It happened out of the clear blue, to tired to flush one night, went to flush both engine's the next morning and that's when it wouldn't run. BTW I rebuilt the carb and used factory kit. I used to be OMC certified when they were still around. Compression is 150 on both. Compression in both is 150, fuel lines aren't original.

 

[Beachbummer]

Since you were OMC certified, you already have enormous engine experience. None of what I say is likely new to you. my apologies for that up front.

Since you rebuilt the carb I expect you confirmed thorttle cable was actuating correctly, same for Throttle cable. It's very strange it would not respond to throttle, as that's a big plate on this carb that generally always has an effect with how much air it blocks. Usually high throttle will kill the engine if not enough fuel is provided with the extra air, but nothing happening is a little odd for sure. Either throttle is not working, or engine does the same thing regardless of throttle plate position. odd.

My humble suggestion is to take the air box/flame arrest or off, so you can see the what the carb is doing, and potentially troubleshoot with a little fuel of your own to confirm/rule out a fuel problem.

When you say the engine starts but "chugs"... Can you elaborate on that?

 

[Beachbummer]

Also, this board is pretty awesome, but over on this other board they have many owners with 717s, and some great history to search through. Sea-Doo Forum

 

[14SX190]

I could definitely handle removing the impeller it’s moving the engine that kinda freaks me out lol

Also, this board is pretty awesome, but over on this other board they have many owners with 717s, and some great history to search through. Sea-Doo Forum

x2 with seadooforum.
It's where I started.

 

[14SX190]

Throttle connected?

I had a twin 717 too, and it was ALWAYS the carbs. (at least for me) The engine is quite simple. I got tired of rebuilding carbs to fail and would buy them new as Mikuni models at around $200 a pop. My Sporster 1800 only had one carb per engine, so that was worthwhile to me.

Sure sounds like the fuel system. (assuming throttle cable is connected and operating carburetor throttle plate) Does it die when you throttle it? It comes OEM with a pulse fuel pump that is now 17 years old. You can try with an electrical pump to test, or swap the pumps to troubleshoot.

Best of luck!

Thats what I was thinking. Do you have an inline fuel filter? Not sure if practical but check pulse line of good engine and try running a longer hose to run not running. You'll have to find a way to crank both engine I guess to get it to work though..Hair brain idea

Yes it is still factory set, this started before I replaced the stater, rectifier and carb rebuild. It happened out of the clear blue, to tired to flush one night, went to flush both engine's the next morning and that's when it wouldn't run. BTW I rebuilt the carb and used factory kit. I used to be OMC certified when they were still around. Compression is 150 on both. Compression in both is 150, fuel lines aren't original.

Since you were OMC certified, you already have enormous engine experience. None of what I say is likely new to you. my apologies for that up front.

Since you rebuilt the carb I expect you confirmed throttle cable was actuating correctly, same for Throttle cable. It's very strange it would not respond to throttle, as that's a big plate on this carb that generally always has an effect with how much air it blocks. Usually high throttle will kill the engine if not enough fuel is provided with the extra air, but nothing happening is a little odd for sure. Either throttle is not working, or engine does the same thing regardless of throttle plate position. odd.

My humble suggestion is to take the air box/flame arrest or off, so you can see the what the carb is doing, and potentially troubleshoot with a little fuel of your own to confirm/rule out a fuel problem.

When you say the engine starts but "chugs"... Can you elaborate on that?

X2 on that.

Check return spring on oil pump. If it get connected wrong it would dump 100% into fuel. Are you running the API-TC old made for the RV gear which is brass. The TCW-3 is not made for that engine.

http://seadoomanuals.net/download/pdf/service/manuals/2002/2002-seadoo-shop-manual-1.pdf

.
It was a large file but search 95 XP its much smaller

 

[Jtoldski]

The fuel lines aren't original, not Tempo but I'm going to change it anyway. Let's see if that does something. BTW I have had oil pump spring issues in the past will check that too. Thanks ya all. Will post the good or the bad. Probably after Christmas.

 

[Jtoldski]

Running PWC full synthetic oil