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10 hr service how much grease for the bearing housing

justason

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My boat has 80 hours on it. Last fall I squeezed 5 pumps into the hose "until it was firm" as they say. in an unrelated seadoo Jetski story...... A friend of mine this spring found his grease line was dried out and pretty much solid......So....made me concerned........

I just pulled my grease line at the bearing just now. 5 pumps until anything came out the bottom, then 5 more until my new grease came out........I reinstalled the line and gave it 5 pumps. it was the identical for both lines/engine assemblies. lines were "firm" when finished
1a.jpg
 

Bruce

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This picture is looking forward toward that seal with the impeller and shaft removed on my 2007 SX230.

Yamaha_SX230_Impeller_Removed.jpg
 

bigwoo

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"We are supposed to use Yamalube A grease for the bearing housing? Does anybody know what is its base? Is it aluminum, lithium or calcium?" Yes I'd like to know what it's type is also. My warranty is out so I got some Lucas marine grease and a new grease gun just for the boat. I have another one for the tractor and lawnmowers. Dang Ferris mower must have 20 zerk fittings.
 

justason

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There is another big thread on this subject within this forum

I wrestled with it then thought.... Why not yamalube? I bought 2 tubes from amazon for resonable $$$. Its low use should last a loooooong time.........and its recomended. All i use now for everything
 

Gym

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My boat has 80 hours on it. Last fall I squeezed 5 pumps into the hose "until it was firm" as they say. in an unrelated seadoo Jetski story...... A friend of mine this spring found his grease line was dried out and pretty much solid......So....made me concerned........

I just pulled my grease line at the bearing just now. 5 pumps until anything came out the bottom, then 5 more until my new grease came out........I reinstalled the line and gave it 5 pumps. it was the identical for both lines/engine assemblies. lines were "firm" when finished
View attachment 6993
Hmmm. From the looks of that @justason, I'd recommend a high fiber diet. :)
 

bucks448

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@Murf'n'surf it was leaking.

@txav8r
I've been looking at diagrams and pics of parts off and on all yesterday trying to figure out what protects the bearing between part 4 and 17. It looks like it'd be exposed to water. Would sealed bearings leak?
In the parts diagram below, part 17 mounts to the back of the engine compartment with a tube clamped on the backside which runs under the swim platform (inside the hull) and connects to the clean out port. The end of this tube in @Bruce pic above is where the drive shaft goes through.

The seal that keeps water out of the boat is on the backside of part 4, but I'm not sure what protects the bearing and the bearing from leaking.

Image.gif
 

MikeyL

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Yes, the grease protects the seal, not the bearings. so if I am seeing this right, the drive shaft with the impeller mounted on it, slides int this unit through the transom plate, that is sandwiching the hull between it and the seal side of this, the intermediate bearing housing? In this hub, what is the grease, what is the seal? I can see the bearings there, and it looks like they are exposed and open to the grease to me. But they are reported to be sealed bearings on the newer boats, but admittedly, I have not googled them to see exactly what bearings they are. In V-drive boats, you have a packing that must be kept up. I just wish we had a little more explanation of what we do and why. I get the manual and can do just that, but what am I doing and why. Any chance you can diagram this part and what each of the rings are made of and the purpose as you see it? And where exactly is the grease going in this? It looks like the nipple is on the other side of whatever we are looking at.
You read (on MANY posts) detailed explanations such one as this from Mel, full of information and accuracies, and wonder ..... Just wonder ....... what most of us would do if there were no jetboaters.net ? !!!!

Thank you to EVERYONE who takes the time to help dozens and many times hundreds of us daily ! Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA
 

Murf'n'surf

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You read (on MANY posts) detailed explanations such one as this from Mel, full of information and accuracies, and wonder ..... Just wonder ....... what most of us would do if there were no jetboaters.net ? !!!!

Thank you to EVERYONE who takes the time to help dozens and many times hundreds of us daily ! Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA
For one, there would be 650+- more people to stupidly hit the 'DONATE' button!
 

tdonoughue

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:banghead:

Yeah... Wonder who would do that... <sigh>
 

bucks448

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latitudeadjuster

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In looking up how to calibrate a grease gun, they recommend using a postal or food scale to measure the weight of grease applied per stroke and then adjust strokes to equal the amount of grease desired. Apparently, common grease gun delivery rates for 1 oz of grease is 26, 28, or 40 strokes...but I read that they are really all over the map in reality. I intend to use my food scale, and measure the grams of 3 separate strokes, divide by three, and use that number to deliver the grams needed to install the grease. There are 28.3495 grams per 1 oz. Then it dawned on me...our manuals call for a volume, not a weight. Ugh.
240/242 boats...intermediate bearing housing..
At 10 hour service - 33.0 ~ 35.0 cc (1.11 ~ 1.18 oz.)
Annual service - 6.0 ~ 8.0 cc (0.20 ~ 0.27 oz.)

Any idea of a good way to measure volume per stroke? I am guessing using a very small cc marked vessel may be the easiest and just do it the same, measure out 3 strokes and divide by three. One other note, everything says to clear the gun of air or voids with as many strokes as necessary to what appears to be a full stroke before you install grease. That is in addition to cleaning both the zerk and gun nozzle before application. I am not sure I have ever cleaned the zerk and they are always dirty on most applications. No need to introduce contaminants, but mainly, you could plug up the zerk and make your job harder. I am hoping someone has a better way to do this and can pass it along too.


seems like a pretty easy equation on a 3oz tube. for 10 hour fill its just over 1/3 of that tube in each.....leaving a little less than 1/3 for the 100 hr fill ups as well as some for the trailer BB's. that's quite a bit for the ten hour mark but makes sense. Seems Yamaha wants that wear time then fill in the cracks both in oil and these fittings....that's a lot of revs per minutes at 56 MPH. The second tube will last a couple years!

these guns state how many strokes per oz. So a gun saying 35 strokes per oz. on the small 3oz gun would be 9 strokes for the 100 hr. and about 37 approx. strokes on the 10 hr. off the top of my head.

http://www.liquidynamics.com/grease/greaseHandOpGreaseGuns.html
 
Last edited:

RiverRat

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Please please please someone tell me I didn't inadvertently ruin my week in Shelbyville! Before I left home last week I easy going through some things and decided to add some grease to the intermediate bearing. Not sure how much, but never felt any resistance. After I pulled off the lake is looked in the engine compartment and found grease had overflowed. Doesn't appear any water made it through. 20160725_150119.jpg
 

Murf'n'surf

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Please please please someone tell me I didn't inadvertently ruin my week in Shelbyville! Before I left home last week I easy going through some things and decided to add some grease to the intermediate bearing. Not sure how much, but never felt any resistance. After I pulled off the lake is looked in the engine compartment and found grease had overflowed. Doesn't appear any water made it through. View attachment 42371
I've done the same with no ill effects.
 

RiverRat

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@Murf'n'surf just wipe the excess and go about my merry way? I hope so. My wife didn't like it when I said,"I think I may have f $%^&@ up our week long boat vacation," while opening the engine hatch...:hurting:
 

Murf'n'surf

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@Murf'n'surf just wipe the excess and go about my merry way? I hope so. My wife didn't like it when I said,"I think I may have f $%^&@ up our week long boat vacation," while opening the engine hatch...:hurting:
That's what I did.
 

Matt Phillips

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I'm not sure about the 1.8s and how they are set up, but here's my experience from the MR1s on my 232.

The manual says every 100 hours or seasonally (I believe). I actually end up greasing my bearings about mid-way through the season. I can usually tell as the engines will start to sound like they have some BBs in a coffee can when at idle. greasing the main bearing silences this immediately.

I've also found it hard to gauge how much grease is going into the bearing down the hose down the back of the engine, so I always reach down there with a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the zip tie holding the hose to the bearing housing, then pump grease into zinc at the the hose until grease comes out the bottom (when it was new I did this until my grease came out the hose). I then reattach the hose and put on a new zip tie and pump 2-3 more squirts into the zirk.

I also use Royal Purple grease that I use on my wheel bearings. doesn't seem to hurt it.
 

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@Matt Phillips It is sometimes hard to get a good idea of the picture. But the bearings are sealed. And adding grease only keeps water out of them, it does nothing to quiet or lube the bearings themselves. When you add grease here, all your doing is adding grease to the "intermediate bearing housing", to keep water from flowing into it...your not lubing the bearing itself.
 
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