2005 AR230 ECU replacement and TPS??

[buckbuck]

OK. Thanks. I'll give it a try.

 

[mdopp]

Having the same problem with my 2004 AR 230. Last year replaced the port side ECU. This year the boat is currently in the shop with the same problem. Injector stuck open. Frustrated because dealer said this is very rare and talking with Yamaha to figure out what is causing problem. My question what is the root cause. Last year I was on the water when a bad storm formed quickly and experienced a lot of lightning. We were not directly hit, although one strike was so close I felt the energy through throddle. A few weeks after that I had the first problem with the ECU.

I can do minor stuff but not confident to do what you are doing. Good job.

Watching to see what you do and see if you figure out the main problem.

 

[Sylvain Mino]

Here is what I noticed on my SX230 2005:

Spent first half of today having a blast with friends, zooming at 20mph for wakeboarding. Then this afternoon, my starboard engine started acting up. At first I though I pulled weeds, but it kept on loosing rpms. At one point I could not get more than 5000, then 3500rpm. I could smell unburnt gas as well. I stopped the engine, and had a look. Other than the gas smell, everything looked fine. I kept the engine off and slowly, very slowly, puttered over to the dock, which was not far 400 feet. Came home, ran the engine without the cover on to hear it. Yup, it sounded like a diesel truck. So I changed all 4 spark plugs. I noticed one of the plugs was barely tight maybe 1 foot pound of torque, definitely not the 9.6 ft/pounds specs say. It was my first time changing my own plugs. I am wondering if the previous mechanic might have buggered up my engine from not properly tightening the spark plugs? The other 3 spark plugs had about 5lbs of torque on them.

So I had my motorcycle buddy come over, he knows R1 Engines, We tested many things... Lots of fuel getting to the 3rd cylinder,
Solid spark out of the 3rd cylinder, too much fuel going in. BTW, if ever you test a spark plug, be sure not to put the open plug near the cylinder hole, where lots of fuel can come out gushing with air... I could see that as a huge fire. Just find a ground metal part of the engine, far away from the hole you pulled the spark plug out of.

We also swapped the ECM from one engine to the other... TADAH... Problem solved. NEW ECM needed. I just can't believe how much water was in the water tight black box. The Seal of the box was intact. I suspect humidity over the years seeped in through the electrical cables. They only have a rubber seal, and no silicone! I had about 1.5 ounces of water in there, compare to the port side that had about half a tea spoon, o a rain drop of water total... This is a Yamaha Design flaw... or factory omission to not seal that compartment right. I might try to ECM once everything is dry again... just to see...

Anyone know where to find a good used ECM for 2005 SX230?

Here are the pictures:
Notice the water...
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=D ... hoto%2cjpg
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM1TptLYrHTcA_D6t_5Wg1F_Eg8ZuBbGBL6wbQmF0tI4ZoRX69w-1cxMnpeQLKD7A?key=MlVuU215SWtxRDJQS0VnMlJCbFBXdXVXNlY3cFln

Here is what the ECM or ECU looks like:
Front.. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=D ... hoto%2cjpg
Back... https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNcG4PY5zpIbkXKa9JdlZLvENWAjb5ZDeFiBiwZgHpqhAN4gt7yS8b6bkTeMIlVOQ?key=RHNPcTROeDdQS3NydlR5NDl1MERNaDJsT3dkYmVn

Here is the back side lid to the black box. Notice the seal is intact!
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=D ... hoto%2cjpg

Here are the Black waterproof Electrical 1 boxes that hold the ECM/ECU:
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=D ... hoto%2cjpg

To get to the ECM, you have o remove like 90 screws and hoses... You need access to the area under the cleanout plugs, as the black boxes that have 4 bolts, the bolts need to be held to unscrew them. Two person job, unless you want to go fishing for washers and bolts...

Then the back of the black boxes has a ton of bolts to undo... It takes about an hour to do it all... longer if the beer is warm...

So Now I need to find a used ECU... Any ideas where to look other than ebay?

 

[marc7]

I feel for you @Sylvain Mino ...You are experiencing exactly what I went through...

 

[thcole]

Are there any ideas how to prevent this issue from happening

 

[cybuch]

I ordered mine from Yamaha sports plaza, I couldn't find a used one.

 

[RRaack]

So glad I found this tread! I ran into the same issue on my 2005 S230 HO! #4 flooding with fuel! Bad timing because we were planning on taking it out for spring break for the first run of this season. However, at least you led me in the right direction to fix it myself. I was really about to start calling shops next week. Was thinking the worst! Fingers crossed!

THANKS!

Robert

 

[buckbuck]

You will have to spend about $1000 at YamahaSportsCenter on a new ECU and about 3 hours of your day to swap it out.
Welcome to the forum. We are here to help you enjoy your boat.

 

[RRaack]

Thanks. Happy to be here! I'm a complete DIYer so any trips to shops are a last resort. This Yamaha set up is still a learning experience. After a little more tinkering I think I've just about verified it to the ECU. I swapped the #3 and #4 injectors and #4 is still flooding. As a 100% confirmation, I'm going to swap the ECUs between the engines and see if the issue goes with it to the other side. Oh wait. I don't want any fuel in that oil so I may just throw a gauge on the injector lead and see if it's sending constant voltage. Hoping for a loose connection or some corrosion on a lead. Probably a long shot. Anyway, I'm looking into that CarmoUSA.com since it looks like they can repair them for about $353. Has anyone else had any luck with them? Sorry, don't want to hijack this thread but there's some really useful information here.

Thanks again,
Robert

 

[Murf'n'surf]

It's my understanding that a bad injector can cause the ECU short. Ohm test your injectors before running with the new ECU.

 

[Ronnie]

Thanks. Happy to be here! I'm a complete DIYer so any trips to shops are a last resort. This Yamaha set up is still a learning experience. After a little more tinkering I think I've just about verified it to the ECU. I swapped the #3 and #4 injectors and #4 is still flooding. As a 100% confirmation, I'm going to swap the ECUs between the engines and see if the issue goes with it to the other side. Oh wait. I don't want any fuel in that oil so I may just throw a gauge on the injector lead and see if it's sending constant voltage. Hoping for a loose connection or some corrosion on a lead. Probably a long shot. Anyway, I'm looking into that CarmoUSA.com since it looks like they can repair them for about $353. Has anyone else had any luck with them? Sorry, don't want to hijack this thread but there's some really useful information here.

Thanks again,
Robert

The wcm/ecu went bad in my waverunner , fx1000 cruiser (has the 998 cc mr1 140 hp motor/non - ho).
A few months ago I sent the unit in to carmo, they had it about three weeks before sending it back tagged unrepairable. I got most of my money (minus shipping and a diagnostic fee) back as well. Three weeks because I sent it to them in Chico /far northern ca and they sent it to Europe. It was worth the try considering what a new one costs. Good luck to anyone who is in this situation.

 

[RRaack]

It's my understanding that a bad injector can cause the ECU short. Ohm test your injectors before running with the new ECU.

Thanks much! Good idea!
What resistance should the injectors be showing? Oh wait... Just researched. I guess they should all read the same so the resistance shouldn't matter.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

The resistance is posted in one of the ECU threads. I'm on my mobile device now so I can't find it easily.

 

[buckbuck]

I need to correct my post...YamahaSportsPlaza not YamahaSportsCenter. Many of us have bought parts and covers from them.

 

[CrankyGypsy]

i'm wondering if the cause of these issues can be prevented: upon powering down, the back deck floods. this water washes into the engine compartment because the decklid seal back there is split/separated for rubber bumper placement. this water spills directly onto the tops of the ECUs.

what i have done is taken electrical tape and sealed the seams along the top of the ECU boxes.

 

[cybuch]

I would replace all 4 injectors, even if they read correctly. Don't want that new ECU going bad on you.

 

[RRaack]

Well, that didn't last very long... Had the ECU repaired and on a planned 4 day trip, she went down after an hour on the first day! Exact same thing. Rough running and rainbow water. Turns out #4 wide is open flooding the cylinder again. And that's after swapping two of them. The problem didn't follow the injector. In the process now to pull everything back out and send it back for repair. Also pulling all the injectors to have them tested by www.fuelinjectorman.com to make sure this time. UGH!

 

[David D]

oh that sucks ....

 

[RRaack]

k... this may have already been covered somewhere but I can't find it... I'm having a heck of a time getting the front two injectors out. I've removed everything I can see in the way but, there is a big silver bracket over the front two injectors and delivery pipe that won't allow the pipe to lift or slide back much. I can only manage to lift up the rear of the delivery pipe and easily get the two rear but the front two are a real task with the delivery pipe wedged in there. I finally got them out by removing the throttle body bolts and slightly lifting them up. I just don't know how I'm going to get them back in there without damaging them. It almost looks like I need to remove the throttle bodies completely and/or the plastic surround. It've got to be missing something.

Any other tips?

Oh and btw... All ohm at 12.3 after having them sit in the fridge for a bit. I noticed that the 11.5-12.5 spec is at 68F... I think it's 101 here in SA right now... as far as I can tell they fall within the correct resistance... but will still send them in...

 

[buckbuck]

I am going by memory here.... I believe you will have to pull the throttle body to get those front two. I do recall wishing I had followed the service manual instead of just jumping in and wrenching things apart.