• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

2005 SX230HO Milky Oil

Just to confirm. I did not find a cracked cylinder wall. I found a cracked cylinder head. While it is possible for a small amount of fuel or water to pass into the oil by going past the rings the volume would be incredibly small with the majority being vaporized and pushed out the exhaust valve. The corroded exhaust manifold is just leaking water from one place where there is water to another area where there is water. The ONLY way that the water could get back up into the oil is if the engine was not running and the operator had the hose hooked up. Feasibly the same way that water could get back into the engine if you operated the boat with one of the engines not running. In that case, water is forced back up the exhaust, into the manifold and past an open exhaust valve, and into the cylinder head. As mentioned previously, it took a while to weed through most of the misinformation here to get the root cause of the problem. There are several threads on here documenting issues with water in their oil and replacing a corroded exhaust manifold did not fix the problem. Also, there is a myth that a block that has an exterior crack somehow can let water get in the oil. Also impossible based on the common location of that crack.
 
Also, you actually get a performance increase when you inject a small amount of water into a running engine. It cools the fuel and increases the density of the charge and decreases the chances of knock. The concept has been around since the late 50's. So let's review so we are all on the same page:
A small amount of water getting into the cylinder while the engine is running turns to steam and actually increases performance.
A large amount of water getting into a running engine would most likely hydro-lock the engine.
Neither of these scenarios force water in to the oil side of the engine.
 
Neither of these scenarios force water in to the oil side of the engine.
Honestly I feel bad for you your engine has a major problem and its so old that finding parts gets difficult and labor is very expensive. My friend was fortunate and I gave him advice to pull the exhaust manifold and he found the breach swapped out the manifold without even pulling the motor. His boat is still running years later and no more milky oil. The water made it into the oil I would guess about 1/2 a quart to a quart. We knew it was this much because if you accidentally add oil to a cold motor and over fill the dry sump it pushes out the breather and ends up splattering the air filter and sitting under the cover. He also did a complete oil drain immediately by pulling the drain bolt at the back of the motor. Hopefully you did the same best of luck and keep us posted on what you do to repair yours.
 
Sorry....that explanation is laughable. Water weeping past rings on a running engine? Seriously? Even if a small amount of water made it into a cylinder with it running it would be instantly turned to steam and sent out the exhaust.
Could be forced past the rings on the compression stroke.
 
Can you give tips on how you got the exhaust off without removing the engine?
 
@Cambo said...

My friend was fortunate and I gave him advice to pull the exhaust manifold and he found the breach swapped out the manifold without even pulling the motor.
 
It was the port motor so all the connection points could be removed . Reinstalling it was more of a challenge what would have helped was taking a tap and cleaning out the thread lock. Realigning the pins or dowels was difficult we had to tie the manifold to a piece of wood and use it as a lever to align it properly so the bolts could go back in. If it’s the starboard motor you would need to pull the motor.
 
Sorry, I missed that @Beachbummer. I have used JB weld in a few places on exhaust manifolds. They seem to be holding because there is no water in the oil. However, I have very low hours on the motors (110).
 
I bought mine with right under 100. And have added another 300 of my own with relatively flawless performance in the last 6 years.

It has caught up to me. And it's the starboard motor. Thanks for the info!
 
What is the issue, if I may ask?
 
Take a wild guess...
.
.
.
Water in the oil.
 
Sorry, again. I should have guessed. You are sure it is water and not fuel?
 
I wish it was fuel, but no smell whatsoever, and it runs fine at all rpm ranges.

No need to apologize, I did not state what it was. Thanks for asking.
 
Sorry to hear you are having problems. Let me know if you need any help troubleshooting. If you are handy, just plan on pulling the engine.....Minimal tools are required.
 
I'm debating next steps. Thanks for the offer!
 
Back
Top