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That's exactly what I was thinking. One of the stainless grommets on the lower legs of the ECU was actually partially decayed away from sitting in water for years. All the contacts look dry and without corrosion but the bottom 1/2 or so of the ECU was definitely submerged. The only opening I can see is the tiny slit on one of the lower wire grommets surrounding one of the larger harnesses. It must be from constant hot/cold environment and just built up over time a single drop at a time. You can actually see the upper part of the lid where it looked like it was sweating. I figure a single tiny hole on the bottom definitely couldn't hurt and much better than the ECU floating in water. I plan on calling Yamaha to ask what they think. Or maybe just siliconing 100% all the way around. Definitely going to pull the other side this weekend as a preventative measure. Why is it more common in the port side? I've found several in forums.
Thanks much. I've heard great things about them. That's about what they quoted me. $75 for the testing and another $309 if repairable. If not a complete refund. Well, plus $18 for shipping which I'm assuming is bothe ways.
It's strange. Apparently www.Carmo.com has several sites... www.RegulatorRectifier and www.CDIDoctor.com are all apparently the same business. Sent mine thru the Regulatorrectifier site who has sent me everything with Carmo letterhead. Anyway, they received it last Wednesday and I've got my fingers crossed that it's repairable. I'll check with them later this week if I haven't heard anything. Also still need to pull the other side to make sure it's dry. Also need to call Yamaha about how water is getting in there and what to do to prevent it. Thinking siliconing it 100% might be best. I'll follow up if they tell me anything.
If they got it last week you should hear something any day now . I think I had mine back in about 2 weeks and yes they are all the same company let me know how it goes
I sent mine to carmo in Chico CA. Got it back about three weeks later boxed within a box. The inner box showed that it came from Brussels or thereabouts. Unfortunately mine was not repairable. When I got it back it was clear that they drilled it (10 or so small holes in a line on the front cover), they patched the hoes with what seemed to be plasti dip. I got most of my money back as well but I'm not looking forward to buying a new ecu at $1,200.
Got the repaired ECU back today! Very relieved! RegulatorRectifiers in Chico CA (same as CarmoUSA) is great! Not sure why they have so many names. I don't think they would have had time to ship it overseas for repairs. I shipped it to them on March 21st. I think they took care of it in CA. They had a note inside to check the injector coil. I wasn't quite sure what they were talking about so I emailed them. The injectors seemed to be working fine just #4 was getting full time 12v. Anyway, still need to pull the other side and check for water and also call Yamaha to determine preventative measures for water getting in there vs a drain hole.
Got a reply and they told me that more than likely a bad injector coil caused the ECU to fault. However, I had checked them before and thought they all read the same. Anyone know what resistance these things should read? If I remember correctly they were all right at 16.8 ohms... Just preparing for the double checking this evening. I really don't think the injectors were bad tho. Just don't want to go thru this again in the future all because of something else messing up the ECU. I still think it musta been the water in there but wanna be safe.
Awesome! Exactly what I needed! Thanks much. Now thinking about it they may have tested at 11.8. Who knows. I'll test em all again. Is that from a Yamaha service manual? I need to invest in one of those.
That's a cold spec. If it were me, I'd pull the suspect one out and a known good one and heat them up to at least 190 degrees and check resistance again. You could just run the boat but if that thing is getting crazy high resistance when it gets hot, it could damage the ECU again.
Thanks. Didn't think about them changing when up to temp. I think I'll try that. Maybe put in a ziplock and a dip in some near boiling water and check again. May be going overboard, but I sure don't want to go thru this mess again and risk it not being repairable. Just got me scared when they told me to check the injectors and didn't think the water in there was a real issue.