2007 AR230 Electrical Problems after installing bluetooth dongle on house stereo. Need Help!

[huntark22]

I have a 2007 AR230HO that has the original OEM stereo. I recently added a Fusion MS-BT100 Bluetooth Dongle. During the install, I was checking the wiring harness that connects to the stereo with a multimeter to check for hot and ground wires to splice into. The dongle had a short wire lead, unfortunately, so I just tapped into the power supply for the stereo. On my first attempt, the polarity was reversed and this immediately caused the 20amp my accesory fuse (near the battery) to burn out. My accessory panel was dead. No lights were coming on, no power to the blower fans and the bilge quick working. I replaced the fuse, and immediately power was restored to my stereo, cabin lights, and nav lights. I was able to succefully install the bluetooth dongle. However, the bilge and blower remained dead. I have checked the buttons in the rubber boots beneath all the switches, nothing was tripped. I check both fuse panels in the rear bulkhead above the engine and the fuses are good. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I need to check next?

 

[mark_m]

Did you catch both fuses #39 & #40 in this diagram:

2007 Yamaha AR230 HO (ORANGE) (SXT1100DF) Electrical 1 | Yamaha Sports Plaza

Shop online for OEM Electrical 1 parts that fit your 2007 Yamaha AR230 HO (ORANGE) (SXT1100DF), search all our OEM Parts or call at (503) 669-2000

www.yamahasportsplaza.com

 

[huntark22]

Did you catch both fuses #39 & #40 in this diagram:

2007 Yamaha AR230 HO (ORANGE) (SXT1100DF) Electrical 1 | Yamaha Sports Plaza

Shop online for OEM Electrical 1 parts that fit your 2007 Yamaha AR230 HO (ORANGE) (SXT1100DF), search all our OEM Parts or call at (503) 669-2000

www.yamahasportsplaza.com

mark_m,

No, I haven't checked those fuses. I'm trying to figure out from the diagram where #38 is in the engine compartment? I am thrilled to know there might be more fuses I can check. I have been worried that I fried the bilge and blower fans.

 

[mark_m]

mark_m,

No, I haven't checked those fuses. I'm trying to figure out from the diagram where #38 is in the engine compartment? I am thrilled to know there might be more fuses I can check. I have been worried that I fried the bilge and blower fans.

You didn't hurt it! Unscrew that round cap #7 - you should be able to see what's going on then. If I get to the dock this week, I'll snap and send you a pic. It's the big boxes on the back wall of the boat when you open the engine hatch. Look straight back, above the engines and you will see them there.

 

[huntark22]

You didn't hurt it! Unscrew that round cap #7 - you should be able to see what's going on then. If I get to the dock this week, I'll snap and send you a pic. It's the big boxes on the back wall of the boat when you open the engine hatch. Look straight back, above the engines and you will see them there.

Okay, I understand now. Yes, I did check the fuses in the round fuse boxes. I think I described them as fuse panels on the rear bulkhead, but they in fact were 3 amp and 20 amp fuses. All were good. No replacements needed.

Any other ideas?

 

[mark_m]

Okay, I understand now. Yes, I did check the fuses in the round fuse boxes. I think I described them as fuse panels on the rear bulkhead, but they in fact were 3 amp and 20 amp fuses. All were good. No replacements needed.

Any other ideas?

Did you get the small fuse in the battery compartment? It's a blade fuse that is attached to the side of the wall and it's sneaky... it doesn't look like a fuse. It is just bilge and blower that don't work? All else is okay?

I suggest you pull the panel out with those switches and take a close look at the wiring. You may need to trace back and see if you melted something. The whole panel should come out if you unscrew at the corners giving you access to behind the switches (and the keys) suggest testing from there with a meter.

 

[huntark22]

Did you get the small fuse in the battery compartment? It's a blade fuse that is attached to the side of the wall and it's sneaky... it doesn't look like a fuse. It is just bilge and blower that don't work? All else is okay?

I suggest you pull the panel out with those switches and take a close look at the wiring. You may need to trace back and see if you melted something. The whole panel should come out if you unscrew at the corners giving you access to behind the switches (and the keys) suggest testing from there with a meter.

Yes, I did replace the fuse in the battery compartment. It was the first place I looked. It was fried. I will look at the connections at the panel and see if there is any overheating indication.

 

[mark_m]

Did you

Okay, I understand now. Yes, I did check the fuses in the round fuse boxes. I think I described them as fuse panels on the rear bulkhead, but they in fact were 3 amp and 20 amp fuses. All were good. No replacements needed.

Any other ideas?

when you checked the fuses on the bulkhead did you measure resistance / test continuity or just visually?

 

[huntark22]

Did you

when you checked the fuses on the bulkhead did you measure resistance / test continuity or just visually?

No, I just visually checked them.

 

[GTBRMC]

No, I just visually checked them.

For a couple dollars worth of fuses, suggest you change out with new ones to see if it fixes issue (assume this is where @mark_m was going). Apologies if I am being Cap'n Obvious here.

 

[mark_m]

For a couple dollars worth of fuses, suggest you change out with new ones to see if it fixes issue (assume this is where @mark_m was going). Apologies if I am being Cap'n Obvious here.

@GTBRMC Exactly where I was going, you may not be able to see that the fusible link is broken and it looks intact, but it really is not. I'd replace for a few bucks if you don't have a good way to put a meter on the fuses to test continuity.

 

[huntark22]

@GTBRMC Exactly where I was going, you may not be able to see that the fusible link is broken and it looks intact, but it really is not. I'd replace for a few bucks if you don't have a good way to put a meter on the fuses to test continuity.

Thanks, I'll do that. This has been a frustrating process all from a stupid mistake.

 

[mark_m]

Did things work out?

 

[huntark22]

Did things work out?

No, I replaced the fuses but still have no bilge or blowers. I have plans on ordering new switches. Sorry for not posting an update. I have been distracted by work lately.

 

[mark_m]

No, I replaced the fuses but still have no bilge or blowers. I have plans on ordering new switches. Sorry for not posting an update. I have been distracted by work lately.

Roger that! Keep us posted.

 

[svana]

Did you check (what I think are) the breakers on the individual switches? The little rubber nubbies under each switch?

 

[bronze_10]

It may not hurt to splice in to the blower somewhere and put some current on it to see if it runs. Or use a meter or test light to see if powers getting to it. That will atleast tell you if the fan its self is bad. It would be odd though because your model boat has two fans. I guess it is possible that both were fried at once from the bad connection.

If they work I think next I would unplug the wire from the switch and make a small hot jumper wire and jump power to the switch itself. If the blowers and everything come on from there then you know everything from the switch down stream is still in good working order and u don't need to mess with it. I would do this first without the switch and just test the wire leading off the switch to the fans, then if it works plug it back the the switch and then jump the system before the switch and see if it works. This will tell you if there is an issue with the switch itself or the little breakers below it.