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2013 - Yamaha 242 Limited S Buying Advice!

SMAR

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Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2013
Boat Model
Limited S
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24
Cooling hose clamps rusting would be an issue, the boat is just too new for that. COndition of spark plugs, if those can be removed, would be another indicator along with the coils/boot - any rust there would worry me. Oil filter - what does it look like? Is it rusted? (shouldn't be)

Cleanout plugs etc., you already know that!

--
Didn't even think about some of those! Adding to my check list! Thank you!!!
 

Crlos16

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2009
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Limited S
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seats just Kill it for me.

If this guy did not care to put the boat cover on, that takes only 15min. I’m sure engines did not get flushed properly after every use. Just my 2 cents..
 

Ilmmct

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Yamaha
Year
2013
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Limited S
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Unfortunately based on the condition of the upholstery, there is no lubricant or conditioner that you can be applied to help restore the material.

The dark color fabric trim pieces that got the most direct sun exposure, have exceeded the UV hour rating of the material and will mostly likely need to be lived with for this boating season and eventually replaced. If the rest of the seat vinyl is in decent condition, you might save some money if you can selectively replace just the trim pieces, but in my area upholstery shops wanted to do the whole seat lock stock and barrel.

For a similar situation on my boat, I selectively replaced the “ugliest” cushions and it cost me about $2,400 in OEM parts, which I purchased from my dealer this past winter. The install was not that challenging for a guy with low level wrenching skills. I am still removing chards of fiberglass from my forearms. I also got stuck in the bow seat storage box while trying to reach the seat-back nuts. It was some fun contortionist skills to lever my fat ass out of the seat box w/no arm or shoulder leverage.

Sorry to digress, There is a also good forum thread on Vinyl painting using a product from SEM, that is worth a read and some consideration.

The vinyl used by Yamaha for this model year was inferior to the material used in my prior 2008. So check the other items recommended ... do your due diligence. But, I would not conclude that the prior owner abused the boat. In my case, I purchased my boat used (only 20 hours in 2015), with a low price and I was aware the upholstery was aging poorly and would need to be replaced eventually. I used the boat for 3 seasons and eventually made the vinyl replacement investment.

Good luck on your purchase.
 

SMAR

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2013
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Thank you guys. We will check it out today. I will take a ton of pics and look over items you guys mentioned. Worse case, the wife and I get to have lunch in Pensacola! (Any recommendations?)
 

SMAR

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Just checked the boat.

From what we gather the boat was on a lift behind his house outside of the water. The front and back of the boats seats look the worse bc the sun got to them. It was on the lift so he just didn't bother putting the cover on it. He did flush and what it appears, preventive maintenance. He showed me a receipt for the annual service that was done so we are good there.

The seats aren't as bad as we thought and we think we can live with them for a few years. We have two big dogs that will be rough on them.

From what we gather, he brought the boat 4 years ago put it in the water and it stayed on the lift all the time but once a year when he took it to the shop for service.

Got a good vibe from him. Seemed like an honest guy. Showed me his 17' out back, and that's the only reason he's getting rid of the 13'.

Trailer will need some attention, probably will do this winter.

Here are engine shots. Started them and they sounded good. Will do water test if/when we buy it.

Thoughts?
 

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mark_m

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Go for it! Steal that boat!
 

SMAR

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No! It looks like a good deal. If you can grab for a reasonable price then do it!
oh okay! We are leaning towards it. What would you consider reasonable?
 

biffdotorg

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Hmmm. It’s a 7 year old boat... 28-30k?
I would agree with these guys. Get it under $30K if at all possible and start budgeting for seating. I'm with the others, I like nice seats and that would bother me.

Anyone bothered by the dirty hose down the center of the engine bay? Why should they be splotchy like that? Mine are as white as can be. Unless something dirty or oily got splashed around.

E4635280-941E-468A-947F-B7BEEE1D8A2D big.jpeg
 

AboveTheBest

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My guess is that’s mildew from leaving water sitting in the bilge too long.
 

biffdotorg

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Agreed, Simple green and a light pressure washer from a distance is what I used in our previous boat to get rid of that.
 

jjmparsons

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Interested in seeing how this turns out. Be nice if someone who was experienced with these was available or able to give it a once over with you as well. Lots to consider but as always, the forum provides great insight as to what to look for. Keeping in mind, opinions will vary across the board!!! =D
 

SMAR

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@biffdotorg your engine bay looks like new! kudos to you! i was just about to ask how to clean that, so thanks again!

@AboveTheBest yes, i think you are correct. i think after they used it, he would flush the motors and thats about it. had standing water in it when i went to see it. how bad is that do you guys think?

we closer to $25k after going to see it. suppose to water test it thursday to see how it does.
 

SMAR

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Interested in seeing how this turns out. Be nice if someone who was experienced with these was available or able to give it a once over with you as well. Lots to consider but as always, the forum provides great insight as to what to look for. Keeping in mind, opinions will vary across the board!!! =D
very much agree! wish you or someone could test it on water with me.
 

biffdotorg

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Limited S
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24
My SportJet powered SeaDoo X20 seemed to have a mildew problem in the engine bay, and Simple green and a rinse got rid of most of it.

The components in the engine bay are sealed, but I would never go crazy with water cleaning it. As mentioned a pressure washer at distance uses less water than a hose, and the distance takes the impact off. I'm talking about 2ft and I can hold my hand in front of it. Then coating the engine with a silicone spray (the same used for the cleanout plugs) will keep it looking nice.

Don't be afraid to pull those cleanout plugs to be sure they can be moved. (I think that was already mentioned) You should be able to grab the jet nozzles and move them from side to side without moving the steering wheel. The reverse buckets should come up off of neutral without shifting inside as well. That's the common amount of play.

Open all cabinets, and give it a good sniff. Likely to be mildew in other areas if it was not covered. The bimini looks great, if that is a current photo. Be sure the boot is included so that you can stow it. Also check for the little seat bolsters for the bow, and the two bow filler cushions.

Check the radio controls at the dash, and at the stern. Check the docking lights, bow nav lights and stern light for operation, and that it is there. Be sure the engine bay fans operate, check oil levels etc.

O the trailer, check roller, tire/wheel condition, winch strap and winch operation. If you want to test the surge brakes, unplug the lights and back it up something. The brakes should engage. (mine did the other day with them plugged in for some reason)

Bunk condition is nice to look at when the boat is off trailer, but those are an easy fix and not a deal breaker. Look over the hull for scratches below the gelcote level. Around the anchor locker from the bottom side is common, as some let their anchor bounce up there. The keel is a clear indication of abuse.

Good luck!
 

SMAR

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Year
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My SportJet powered SeaDoo X20 seemed to have a mildew problem in the engine bay, and Simple green and a rinse got rid of most of it. Good to know!

The components in the engine bay are sealed, but I would never go crazy with water cleaning it. As mentioned a pressure washer at distance uses less water than a hose, and the distance takes the impact off. I'm talking about 2ft and I can hold my hand in front of it. Then coating the engine with a silicone spray (the same used for the cleanout plugs) will keep it looking nice.

Don't be afraid to pull those cleanout plugs to be sure they can be moved. (I think that was already mentioned) You should be able to grab the jet nozzles and move them from side to side without moving the steering wheel. The reverse buckets should come up off of neutral without shifting inside as well. That's the common amount of play. im glad you mentioned as i forgot. when i went to go pull the clean out plugs, they were full of water and the owner said dont pull them as they are a pia to put back. so i dont think he has taken them out for awhile. with them full of water and not being removed for awhile, what is the worse case with them?

Open all cabinets, and give it a good sniff. Likely to be mildew in other areas if it was not covered. i checked all cabinets and they didnt have any smell. a few seats had mildew spots that we plan on using marine 31 on them. The bimini looks great, if that is a current photo. according to the owner it is new. Be sure the boot is included so that you can stow it. glad you mentioned that. will have to ask. if not, can i tow it open? Also check for the little seat bolsters for the bow, and the two bow filler cushions. those are all there and they look new!

Check the radio controls at the dash, and at the stern. both work. has two amps, a sub, and i think all speakers were upgraded and all work. Check the docking lights, bow nav lights and stern light for operation, and that it is there. checked and all work. Be sure the engine bay fans operate, check oil levels etc. fans work as they should and i checked oil. oil looks good and really clean.

O the trailer, check roller, tire/wheel condition, winch strap and winch operation. If you want to test the surge brakes, unplug the lights and back it up something. The brakes should engage. (mine did the other day with them plugged in for some reason) trailer does show rust and wear from salt. the worse i can see are the straps in the back. (cant even use them) and the leaf springs are showing rust. will check the winch when we put in water.

Bunk condition is nice to look at when the boat is off trailer, but those are an easy fix and not a deal breaker. Look over the hull for scratches below the gelcote level. Around the anchor locker from the bottom side is common, as some let their anchor bounce up there. The keel is a clear indication of abuse. i didnt see any major hull scratches deeper then the gel. i will once it over again. anchor locker looked good and i didnt see anything to major. the ladder is missing tho

Good luck!
thanks for this info! i answered the best i could in blue above. never thought buying a boat would be so hard! lol
 

biffdotorg

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That response about the cleanout plugs is the worst response. Pulling them and lubing them is the only right answer. As the less times they get lubed, the harder they will go in. Pull them before purchase to be sure they will come out. Just leave them out if they come out, spray and put back in before the next outing.

Just be ready to order two cleanout plug rebuild kits and a spray can of silicone spray to keep on the boat at all times. They should be pulled and drained on a regular basis. That water will kill them over time. Also spend the money on a set of EZ locks or similar device to prevent blow outs.

Don't tow the boat faster than you would drive it on water, and the bimini would be fine. But most will agree, you will drive faster than 50mph, so plan to stow it on the highway. The damage to the gelcote near the anchor locker would be on the outside of the boat. You may not see it inside. Ic an see the spider cracking and chipping on the outside of the boat where the anchor would be beating from the inside out. it's common.

If your only issue then is the seat condition, budget for it and you should be good.
 
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