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2017 212X stereo settings

Rod5

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Oh I think you're right, was probably on 242...
 

Dave burke

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I took one of the swim deck speakers out last weekend to see if there was room behind and I think there is. I have a new set of DB651’s and will see if it will sit flat (by turning it backward) this weekend. I’ll let you know.
 

geohil

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I took one of the swim deck speakers out last weekend to see if there was room behind and I think there is. I have a new set of DB651’s and will see if it will sit flat (by turning it backward) this weekend. I’ll let you know.
Thank-you. I was going to pull the grill off of one of my 651's to test the same thing.
 

Dave burke

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Ok, lets compare notes. Hopefully we come to the same conclusion!
 

geohil

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So for fitting 6.5's on the swim deck on the 212X - the short answer is yes we can....but it will take some fancy cutting.
Here is a pic of the stock 5.25 grill and you can see how it fits into the curved fiberglass on the left.
IMG_6731.JPG

Here is a 6.5 from the front and from the back if you try to fit it inside the curve.
IMG_6732.JPG
IMG_6733.JPG

Only thing I could think to do is cut out the curve

IMG_6735.JPG

I'm not happy with the 5.25's so I'll probably be trying this unless someone has a good idea?
 

Dave burke

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I’ll be checking out mine tomorrow night but on the surface, I don’t have any better ideas. What were you thinking using to cut the opening? A cutout saw with a template?
 

geohil

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I’ll be checking out mine tomorrow night but on the surface, I don’t have any better ideas. What were you thinking using to cut the opening? A cutout saw with a template?
When I did my 2nd sub I used a rotozip with a tile bit. Taped and templates. May go back to that standard if I can’t build it out. Wish marine did seperates instead of coaxile.
 

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Finally got around to trying different ideas on the swim deck and at the helm.

For the swim deck, I think it will be really hard to cut out the curve and I’d be really worried about messing up the fiberglass. And in my case, the 6.5 speaker almost fits. See the pics below:

EF2F537D-6E86-4854-8F4B-141BD0DBB642.jpeg 5472D251-C5B3-4198-94AD-68C5B32DFAA6.jpeg
 

Dave burke

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So at least in my case, the 6.5s almost fit into the curve. If there was just a bit of flex in the speakers, they would fit.

Anybody know if the JL or the WS 6.5s have a bit of flex?
 

geohil

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Finally got around to trying different ideas on the swim deck and at the helm.

For the swim deck, I think it will be really hard to cut out the curve and I’d be really worried about messing up the fiberglass. And in my case, the 6.5 speaker almost fits. See the pics below:

View attachment 65344 View attachment 65345
So one of the local stereo shops I trust can make a wedge shaped speaker mounting plate (basically a spacer plate that slopes to the stern) out of a white plastic that would add the needed clearance. The polks may not need as much since they are fairly shallow to mount. But the JL’s I have need about another inch of clearance.
I’ve been working on winterizing instead of stereo so stuff - sorry!
 

geohil

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So at least in my case, the 6.5s almost fit into the curve. If there was just a bit of flex in the speakers, they would fit.

Anybody know if the JL or the WS 6.5s have a bit of flex?
JL’s have no flex and are at least an inch deeper. The basket also is much wider.
 

Dave burke

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I also tried to see if there was room to install the 5.25s or 6.5s in the helm.

Here’s the 5.25s on port and starboard:

1AA79F66-559B-45A9-BA50-935841E4DAC2.jpeg

85B97E29-95F3-4066-8865-40346F43EEE2.jpeg

They fit nicely on the starboard side but the grab handle will have to be moved or angled for it to work on the port side. Anybody done this?

Here’s the 6.5s. I think they will still fit but won’t look as good. Again, I’d love to know if anybody has tried this. Thx

F89824A9-0A7B-4A7F-8813-0578FB8A926D.jpeg

354C7C4D-DE6A-40C3-8B47-D6A241146E99.jpeg
 

Dave burke

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Thx Geohill. Adding the wedge is an interesting idea. Let me know if you proceed.

I’m winterizing too. Just wanted to post these pics before I forgot. Won’t be doing any cutting until Spring!
 

geohil

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Thx Geohill. Adding the wedge is an interesting idea. Let me know if you proceed.

I’m winterizing too. Just wanted to post these pics before I forgot. Won’t be doing any cutting until Spring!
Before you cut holes in the helm - throw a bigger amp at your tower speaker bar. I threw a $80 Polk 2000.2 at it and it is loud. 125w rms per channel and I probably won’t add helm speakers (who am I kidding...I’ll do it any way).
 

Dave burke

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Lol. I definitely will throw a bigger amp at the soundbar. Like you, I’ll still probably add the helm speakers as well. I’ve read lots of posts from people who’ve added them and nobody seems disappointed.

Where did you get the Polk for $80? I just looked on amazon and it’s $125.
 

geohil

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It w
Lol. I definitely will throw a bigger amp at the soundbar. Like you, I’ll still probably add the helm speakers as well. I’ve read lots of posts from people who’ve added them and nobody seems disappointed.

Where did you get the Polk for $80? I just looked on amazon and it’s $125.
it was amazon - but a secondary seller. Heck of an amp...even at $125
 

geohil

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Anyone know if the two pre-amp outputs from the Connext are full range? They don't have one with a low-pass for the sub, correct?
 

FloJet

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Yes they are full range. Front and back
 

geohil

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Yes they are full range. Front and back
Perfect. Now that I have dedicated amps for my swim deck and tower speakers (all the music being projected out of the boat) I want to be able to control the volume for just that stage. Sounds like I can just hook them both to either front of back rca and use the fader to modulate.
 
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