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I know the floor drains throughout the cockpit of our boat drain into the bilge. The rear "trunk' drains out of two ports on the transom. I'd bet money those floor drains in the above pic do the same.
Looks like there should be some through hulls just above the water line for the cockpit drainage system according to what I've read with other Chaparrals.
I'm pretty sure the Rotax boats have dual scuppers which are bigger than the Yamaha(you can see in the photo below) I'm pretty positive they don't go to the bilge @BobJohnson can you confirm this. View attachment 51781
Now you got me curious!
I remember looking into this at some point and am pretty sure those two drains in your first picture are draining into the bilge.
Of course I could be wrong. Hopefully someone can confirm.
I'm pretty sure the Rotax boats have dual scuppers which are bigger than the Yamaha(you can see in the photo below) I'm pretty positive they don't go to the bilge @BobJohnson can you confirm this. View attachment 51781
I can confirm... no scupper valve in the Chaparral. Those rear drains are just what has been speculated here.... Drains which feed into the bilge pump. The boat is set up real nice where anything wet getting on any of the seats, will have the water channel around the seats and flow down right into those drains. We see it very clearly when my Golden Retriever climbs in and stands on one of the seats. Water channels around the seats, down the drain and into the bilge. ( I just need to constantly make sure the grate on the drain is clear of dog hair)
Thanks for clarifying that @BobJohnson I guess the dealer here when I looked was misinformed(not surprised), and I guess my definition of self bailing is different haha. @swatski sorry to doubt you.
now I am doubting myself. I honestly can not say 100 % for sure that the floor drains flow into the bilge area. I guess I have always just assumed they did and never gave it any other thought. But @2nazt since your dealer told you the Vortex's had these, I looked some more.
Thanks for clarifying that @BobJohnson I guess the dealer here when I looked was misinformed(not surprised), and I guess my definition of self bailing is different haha. @swatski sorry to doubt you.
I've found that a LOT of dealers are misinformed when it comes to knowing anything about these boats. I've finally found one that SEEMS to know a good bit of information.
Guys - now I am REALLY curious!!! LOL. That is a scupper valve in the link @BobJohnson , no doubt. Is it a jet boat?
If I remember correctly, it was at a last year boat show when I talked to a regional product manager, I think it was a Scarab jet boat actually, but we talked about Rotax boats in general. He seemed like he knew what he was talking about. There should be a strait answer to that... but I feel confused. LOL.
I've found that a LOT of dealers are misinformed when it comes to knowing anything about these boats. I've finally found one that SEEMS to know a good bit of information.
True, but who wants to be the guinea pig to see how long they last when, if they fail, will do some major engine damage. Not sure I'd be willing to risk a $5K+ motor for an $800 part.
Jpass i agree 100% with a SCer failure depending on if anything on the gear side of the SCer lest go. Can be a mess. Not just a flush, but a timing chain also and inspectiong of everything. Not 5k, hell a complete long block from BRP IS ONLY $3200. Bearings, chain, cp pistons, head job. Machine work. Max $3500.
But true to me also i am replacing my 300 Scer at probably 150hours. Not going to chance it. Pull way to many motors for the SCer design amd flywheel bolts.
No, the link with the picture is not a jet boat. Another prop model chaparral. But that drain looks similar enough to mine, that it has me wondering how and where mine drains to. Little over a month and I can find out.
Maybe $3500 if you do the swap yourself. Don't forget to add $800 more for the supercharger, as that's not part of the long block that I can see. Now you're at roughly $4K just for motor and SC'er. Definitely over $5K to pay a shop to do the swap. Can't see a shop charging less than a $1K to do the entire swap.
I asked my local shop about the cost to rebuild and replace both my superchargers just for grins. They came back at $1700. I'm fairly certain to remove and replace a motor would easily cost $5K+. Lots of time involved in a job like that.
There was a member on here very recently stating he paid more than that after his SC'er failed on his Challenger 230.
Maybe $3500 if you do the swap yourself. Don't forget to add $800 more for the supercharger, as that's not part of the long block that I can see. Now you're at roughly $4K just for motor and SC'er. Definitely over $5K to pay a shop to do the swap. Can't see a shop charging less than a $1K to do the entire swap.
I asked my local shop about the cost to rebuild and replace both my superchargers just for grins. They came back at $1700. I'm fairly certain to remove and replace a motor would easily cost $5K+. Lots of time involved in a job like that.
There was a member on here very recently stating he paid more than that after his SC'er failed on his Challenger 230.
Yea i guess if you have to use a dealer. I have not used one for many years on my SCer's or motors in forever.
Rebuilds are $425 complete and you can have the best in the bussiness rebuild it. Removing them is crazy easy. If anyone is in my area and needs help there are better ways to get help with your Rotax motors. They are crazy simple. There are many guys out there that have been working on And modifing this 1.5L For a long time and most are like me willing to help. I have rebuilt tons of SCer's. The design has its flaws, but has been updated to this new design so only time will tell. But most of us have the older SCer's with 200hours or less service time.
A boat has far less abuse than a ski so i guess you could actually wait till 200hours as brp states, but on my ski's i would do a 100.
I already love this forum. Glade i bought my 230wake.
I have had several supercharged Seadoo's and I will say the process to remove the SCer is pretty easy and sending it off and getting it rebuilt was easy, obviously the cost was not very fun. I chose my yamaha for one reason, reliability. Having had two yamaha boats and only had one issue with a bearing on a pump go out in the middle of grand lake. Luckily had two engines! It always seemed no matter how good I took care of my Seadoo's they always seemed to have more maintenance thus resulting in down time. Not trying to start a ford vs. chevy argument though, I am sure there are tons of stories the opposite way of Seadoo's being more reliable. I do like some of the ideas Chap has on their boats. Wouldn't it be cool to get a yamaha power plant in some of the rotax boats...I know it will never happen but kinda neat to dream
I shopped for the Yamahas for years before I pulled the trigger on the Chap. (Happy wife, happy life). She just liked the trim and look of the Chap over the Yamaha. No cleanout plugs. That lack of ability last year stopped us for days as we tried to get a tube rope out of the impeller. I now have a dedicated rope guard. Something to think about for you. I do like the intercoolers. I've read that the recent Rotax engines don't require a rebuild until about 200 hours. I'm sure it's in the Rotax section.