2020 AR210 Trolling Motor

[fatboyroy]

Anyone able to find available Minn Kota Terrova 80/60? All I can find is ulterra available but I dont want automatic deploy.

 

[MilesPrower]

Well it looks like they are screwed in, in 3 locations and then a slide clip in one. This is from the Service Manual. Not sure how I am going to get up there though.

View attachment 149835

I haven't removed the side-rests, but I removed both backrests (the ones that divide the cockpit from the bow), which seem to use the same hanging mechanism as the side-rests, according to the diagram you posted above. For the backrests, all I had to do was pull away the bottom edge of the cushion to just barely reveal the #16 screws that are not holding the hangers (#21). I removed those screws, then lifted the cushions straight up off the hangers (#21).

 

[MilesPrower]

My plan to mount a trolling-motor:

1. Completely remove both the anchor-locker hatch and the boarding ladder.
   
   
2. Mount a 1'' HDPE sheet, using the same holes and backing hardware left over from the boarding ladder.
   
   
3. Mount a Shuttle Slide to the HDPE plate.
   
   
4. Replace the single marker light on the anchor-locker hatch with two separate side-lights on the gunwales instead.

Importantly, I want to continue using my boat cover (since I store my boat covered on its lift), so I don't want to change the profile of the bow to such a degree that the cover no longer fits.

 

[MilesPrower]

I haven't removed the side-rests, but I removed both backrests (the ones that divide the cockpit from the bow), which seem to use the same hanging mechanism as the side-rests, according to the diagram you posted above. For the backrests, all I had to do was pull away the bottom edge of the cushion to just barely reveal the #16 screws that are not holding the hangers (#21). I removed those screws, then lifted the cushions straight up off the hangers (#21).

To clarify —

I've marked with green circles three #16 screws in the diagram. Pull the bottom edge of the cushion toward you, and you'll see each of these screws. (Your boat may have more than three screws behind the bottom edge of the cushion.) Remove these screws that are visible behind the bottom edge of the cushion — and only these screws. The other #16 screws will be hidden and can't be accessed while the cushion is in place.

Yank the cushion straight up to pull it off the #21 hangers. The diagram only shows a single #21 hanger per side, but there are many more all along the length of the cushion. (The legend says that there are 28 hangers in total.) I'd bet most or all of the "rectangular slots" that are shown on the backside of the cushion in the diagram have a corresponding #21 hanger attached to the boat.

And that's that.

All of the other #16 screws, as well as all of the #21 hangers, remain in place, and do not need to be removed.

It's a simple but very effective system to hold the cushions in place. When I removed the backrests, I was originally thinking I'd have to do all sorts of crawling around, but once I figured out the system, it took me less than a minute to remove each cushion.

 

[HangOutdoors]

My plan to mount a trolling-motor:

1. Completely remove both the anchor-locker hatch and the boarding ladder.
   
   
2. Mount a 1'' HDPE sheet, using the same holes and backing hardware left over from the boarding ladder.
   
   
3. Mount a Shuttle Slide to the HDPE plate.
   
   
4. Replace the single marker light on the anchor-locker hatch with two separate side-lights on the gunwales instead.

Importantly, I want to continue using my boat cover (since I store my boat covered on its lift), so I don't want to change the profile of the bow to such a degree that the cover no longer fits.

My initial plan was like yours last fall when I thought about this, not sure how I would like it though. I wanted to keep the existing anchor locker in place with the ladder functionality if needed. I test fit a mount and my cover still goes over it fine on the anchor locker, as I cover my boat as well. The optimum spot would be on the Port Gunwale as indicated above. For the cover I would just cut a hole and sow in a boot of the same material, like they do on the FSH with trolling motor cover. That way Anchor locker is usable while trolling motor is on. Of course not sure which world I can live it right now still test fitting.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Anyone able to find available Minn Kota Terrova 80/60? All I can find is ulterra available but I dont want automatic deploy.

I got my Minn Kota Terrova 80/60 from Bass Pro shops.

I wasn't able to fine one a couple months ago while starting this journey. We went up to the Mall where there is a Bass Pro Shop and I was chatting with the guy. He said he just got two in, do I want one. I let him know that I need approval from the Admiral so I went to find her. She said she would buy it for me. Went back to the counter and the guy said he only had 1 left so I got it. He then told me that they will get things like trolling motors and chart/plotters in that they didn't even know they were coming, happens all the time. They don't even make it to their website. People call and buy them on the spot. So I would keep calling them at the store and see if they get one in.

Also, if I don't end mounting this one I have, I am returning it. Still in the plastic. I would consider selling to someone, but I would need full price plus the sales tax I paid, since that is what I would be getting refunded to the Admirals charge card if I return. I couldn't cut a deal on it. Just a thought.

 

[HangOutdoors]

So as I am thinking more about your idea I looked up this USCG Reg, just for my own info.

"Powerboats under 12 meters (39.4 feet) in length must have separate or combined red and green sidelights covering 112.5 degrees and visible for 1 nautical mile. The white masthead light must cover 225 degrees, be 1 meter above the sidelights and be visible for 2 nautical miles. The white stern light must cover 135 degrees and be visible for 2 nautical miles, or you can substitute one 360-degree all-around white light. For larger boats, the sidelights must be visible for 2 nautical miles and the masthead light for 3 nautical miles."

 

[MilesPrower]

So as I am thinking more about your idea I looked up this USCG Reg, just for my own info.

"Powerboats under 12 meters (39.4 feet) in length must have separate or combined red and green sidelights covering 112.5 degrees and visible for 1 nautical mile. The white masthead light must cover 225 degrees, be 1 meter above the sidelights and be visible for 2 nautical miles. The white stern light must cover 135 degrees and be visible for 2 nautical miles, or you can substitute one 360-degree all-around white light. For larger boats, the sidelights must be visible for 2 nautical miles and the masthead light for 3 nautical miles."

Yup. I've added bow lights and sidelights to other watercraft to stay USCG compliant. Attwood has a great selection of lights that require a small hole for the wiring and two screw holes — minimal holes that you can refinish if you decide to return to stock configuration at a later date.

Attwood Marine

Attwood Marine produces marine hardware and accessories including Swivl-Eze pedestals, boat trailers, marine cleaners, and bimini tops.

old.attwoodmarine.com

I've already checked that if you drop a wire from a hole in the gunwale, the wire will fall into the side lockers — so wiring gunwale-mounted sidelights will be dead easy. Plus, to mount the Attwood sidelights, you don't need access to the underside of the gunwale. You can just drill the holes from the top, drop the wire through the center hole, then screw the light down.

The other option is to mount sidelights to the StarBoard deck that you're fashioning, to the left and right of your trolling motor. Then if you do decide to go back to stock, you won't have to refinish holes in the gunwale.

BTW, if you don't want to pay for overpriced King StarBoard, I'd recommend getting sheets of HDPE from your favorite plastics supplier. That's what I do. The HDPE I buy is actually stronger than brandname StarBoard.

 

[fatboyroy]

I got my Minn Kota Terrova 80/60 from Bass Pro shops.

I wasn't able to fine one a couple months ago while starting this journey. We went up to the Mall where there is a Bass Pro Shop and I was chatting with the guy. He said he just got two in, do I want one. I let him know that I need approval from the Admiral so I went to find her. She said she would buy it for me. Went back to the counter and the guy said he only had 1 left so I got it. He then told me that they will get things like trolling motors and chart/plotters in that they didn't even know they were coming, happens all the time. They don't even make it to their website. People call and buy them on the spot. So I would keep calling them at the store and see if they get one in.

Also, if I don't end mounting this one I have, I am returning it. Still in the plastic. I would consider selling to someone, but I would need full price plus the sales tax I paid, since that is what I would be getting refunded to the Admirals charge card if I return. I couldn't cut a deal on it. Just a thought.

Thank you I was just at bass pro last weekend they dont have in stock, I will start calling other locations, every westmarine I talked to keeps telling me its back ordered til August except Ulterra which they have 2 available in california.

 

[MilesPrower]

I test fit a mount and my cover still goes over it fine on the anchor locker, as I cover my boat as well.

Good to know. Thanks!

 

[MilesPrower]

So as I am thinking more about your idea...

Not to give you too much to think about (decision fatigue), here's another thought if you go with sidelights.

Replace the nuts underneath the boarding ladder with large threaded knobs (or threaded adjustable clamping levers). KIPP makes some with EN 1.4308 stainless components.

Fashion your HDPE deck for the trolling motor so it mounts to the boat with bolts and threaded knobs/levers that utilize the same holes as the boarding ladder. Then you can switch back and forth between the ladder and motor without tools.

Either remove the hatch, or upgrade the hatch's gas spring so the hatch can stay propped open in rough water. If you upgrade the gas spring, you can just keep the hatch open when you've got your motor mounted. And when you've got the ladder mounted, you can still open/close the hatch as needed. (I haven't checked how far the hatch can fold over toward its backside if the gas spring is detached. Maybe that's the better solution to keeping the hatch out of the way when you've got the motor mounted.)

Any which way, you'll still have access to the anchor, whether you have the motor or ladder mounted.

And if you're just going cruising with the fam, you can still use the hatch as a diving platform. (That's what my kids do when we're floating around or anchored in deep enough water. They stand on the hatch and jump/dive/flip into the water.)

 

[HangOutdoors]

Great thoughts, not sure if that would work for us.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Alright a lot of progress on this project and it is starting to shape up nicely. Showing some interim pictures.

It looks like the spot that works best is the port side gunwale. That way seadek can be still used on part of the bow on the left, the full bow gunwale on the right and the anchor locker and still have full access to the anchor locker and stock navigation and ladder at all times. Not wanting to give up something if I could help it if that makes sense.

After reviewing the advice above, four screws were removed and the backrest easily popped up. After removing the speaker there is no way to reach all the way up front from there. Picked up at west Marine a 4" Screw in Deck plate that will be used for now. The plan will be to get a 4" LED Soft Glow courtesy light which will go into the hole later and another hole will be drilled into the Starboard side to put a matching one there and then tie those in to the courtesy light switch at the helm. At least with the screw in Deck Plate there is no rush to select the lighting. What is nice is now is that my arm can get all the up there and put some plates for bracing and 5200 them into place spreading the load across more surface area rather than just a washer. For those who don't like drilling holes in their boat the first few pics may be unsettling

 

[HangOutdoors]

Next, 3/4" plywood was being test fitted for a mount. For right now the posts as someone else used are not being used for a couple of reasons. First with the Starboard (and other materials are also being considered), it can be contoured with a shim to span the distance between the top mount and the hull. This gives it more surface area contact spreading the load. Secondly, making the starboard mount bigger than the puck so that there can be some room to rotate the puck a few degrees either way. Also if there is ever a chance that another trolling motor or another brand of trolling motor is going to be used or someone who buys my boat wants to, all that would have to be done is to redrill the Starboard mounting surface.

In the pictures below you will see the initial mockups this evening, of course it still needs some adjustment and tuning but the leveling looks good. Also this allows the puck to be pushed further out so there is plenty of clearance with the trolling motor shaft, rather than using a slide. Going to use some hot glue tomorrow and putting mock pieces together and trimming till I get the shape, layout and angles. Once that is done, the design will be transferred to the platform material.

Anyhow hopefully this information is helpful to others. In may not be optimal for some people but it appears to working out so far for me, so far.

Also, once done and everything is correct, I can transfer all the dimensions and layout and send them to anyone who wants them or post them here. I guess I could make up some additional mounts and send them out if someone can't build their own.

One thing, is I have a claw RAM stabilizer mount for the trolling motor. Wanting to get the angle good so that the shaft is going over the grab rail so it can use that there, but also not block too much of the seat.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Another thing that we tested is putting the cover over it. It appears that the standard cover will fit with no modification, It stretches a bit and those edges need to be rounded but it will fit, at least right now. The Admiral suggesting making a boot for it or a cover and just slide that over it first then put the cover over, so that may work out even better.

 

[MilesPrower]

Looking good!!!

The plan will be to get a 4" LED Soft Glow courtesy light which will go into the hole later and another hole will be drilled into the Starboard side to put a matching one there and then tie those in to the courtesy light switch at the helm.

Great idea! The only addition I'd make to that plan: Replace the SPST courtesy-light switch with a double-throw rocker (like the one used for 360° or 360° plus marker lights), so that you can turn on just the cockpit light by itself or the cockpit plus your new bow lights. That way, when you're running at night, you can still turn on the cockpit light separately. And when you're anchored, you can flip the switch the other way to turn on all the courtesy lights.

50% of my boating is after sunset, and I find that any light forward of the cockpit (even the glow cast by a cell phone) can ruin my night vision. I would imagine that the lights you add at the bow, no matter how soft they are, would have the potential of being distracting while navigating by starlight.

 

[MilesPrower]

It appears that the standard cover will fit with no modification, It stretches a bit and those edges need to be rounded but it will fit, at least right now.

I didn't know that Yamaha changed the cover to a snap-on that stays above the rub-rail.

Mine is a strap-down that fits tightly over the rub-rail, which is why I was concerned that any modification to the gunwale or the profile of the bow would require a corresponding modification to the cover.

 

[HangOutdoors]

I have both. The one I use is the mooring cover that is over the rub rail. That is what we test fitted. My snap on bow cover, which is just used during inclement weather will need to modified a bit.

 

[RobbieO]

I can't wait to see the finished product...you've put a lot of time and effort into this project....

 

[RobbieO]

I have both. The one I use is the mooring cover that is over the rub rail. That is what we test fitted. My snap on bow cover, which is just used during inclement weather will need to modified a bit.

do you tow with your mooring cover? Yesterday my wife went out for the first time. She said "You put this cover off/on every time you go to the lake?
That's stupid...lol